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65 Won’t run right.

1593 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  zray
I am at a complete loss. i Have a 65 200ci that won’t idle right. When I start it up on cold start it idles beautifully for about 10 seconds then it begins to misfire and drop rpm until it dies. I have tuned the carburetor to the best that i can. these are the parts i have replaced
Fuel: new tank, new pump, new hoses, new filter, brand new carburetor
Ignition: new wires, new plugs (points look good and since it idles good at startup they work)
air:new filter, valves are not stuck
compression is good as well.
I have replaced everything and I don’t know what to do. if anyone has any ideas please help. I don’t want to pay to being it to a specialist.
Thanks all.
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It sounds to me like it might be running out of gas. Like the carb bowl has enough to get it started, but then it can't keep up.
I'd unplug the hose from the carb and run it into a jar and then start the car (or at least turn it over) and see if it shoots a good amount of gas out into the jar.
Maybe change the gas filter again.
And pop the top of the carb off (assuming it's an 1100) and check that the float is ok and the needle valve's adjusted and the seat's not gummed up.

Just so we all know what we're looking at, what kind of carb do you have and what kind of gas filter and fuel pump, etc? Everybody like pictures too if you can grab some. :)
 

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Can you "goose it" and keep it running until it warms up?
 

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1965 Ford Mustang Coupe 200ci 3.3L 6 cylinder
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It sounds to me like it might be running out of gas. Like the carb bowl has enough to get it started, but then it can't keep up.
I'd unplug the hose from the carb and run it into a jar and then start the car (or at least turn it over) and see if it shoots a good amount of gas out into the jar.
Maybe change the gas filter again.
And pop the top of the carb off (assuming it's an 1100) and check that the float is ok and the needle valve's adjusted and the seat's not gummed up.

Just so we all know what we're looking at, what kind of carb do you have and what kind of gas filter and fuel pump, etc? Everybody like pictures too if you can grab some. :)
I have already taken the top of the carb off and checked it. everything is where is is supposed to be. And the jar thing is a good idea. I will try it. I can also post some pictures in the morning.
 

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I vote vacuum leak, weak spark, improper spark advance/advance curve or a combination. Got pictures of the carburetor, from the passenger side with the air cleaner removed, and the distributor breaker plate, with the distributor cap removed?
 

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Correct carb for a Load-O-Matic distributor... note the Spark Control Valve (SCV) to the left of the vacuum hose. WTF is the fuel filter to the LEFT of the carb hooked to??? '65 fuel pump should have an attached canister filter and steel hard line to the carburetor. Also check that you're not sucking air into the hole in the intake manifold spacer directly below the carburetor mounting nut you can see in the photo.
 

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WTF is the fuel filter to the LEFT of the carb hooked to??? '65 fuel pump should have an attached canister filter and steel hard line to the carburetor. Also check that you're not sucking air into the hole in the intake manifold spacer directly below the carburetor mounting nut you can see in the photo.
^^^^^^ +1

Start with the proper plumbing as Woodchuck points out. The rubber line from the fuel pump to the carb is asking for an engine fire. The ‘65’s came with the best fuel pump Ford out on a 1960’s era car. If your fuel pump doesn’t have a canister fuel filter built in to it , then ditch it and get the correct part. NPD has them. While you are at it, as Woodchuck also suggests, get the all steel pump to carb fuel line, You don’t need or want to have an inline fuel filter. The one built in to the correct fuel pump is the best filter available today.You’ll then have a good chance of keeping your car from being toast, and can begin to find the root issues

Z
 
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