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So I've acquired a 66 Mexican built car from a family member and I've brought it over to my shop. The paint was redone to make it look like the gt from the era I'm guessing, and it was at one point red. Interior has been completely redone as well. See pics. More pics to come and I'll post what I'm doing and any questions I might have from the community.
 

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Nice coupe. Stock or modified suspension? Is that TMI upholstery? If you don't mind me asking, what are you build plans since it looks to be a decent driver. If I had any critical comment, I don't understand why people combine Factory GT and Shelby GT350 style badging? Still, sweet looking ride.
 

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Looks like TMI sports seats. Overall looks like. A great start.
 

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Welcome to the board.

That’s a great looking fixer upper,...looks more like a finished project.
 

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Nice coupe. Stock or modified suspension? Is that TMI upholstery? If you don't mind me asking, what are you build plans since it looks to be a decent driver. If I had any critical comment, I don't understand why people combine Factory GT and Shelby GT350 style badging? Still, sweet looking ride.
Stock suspension I've come to find out. I'd say original too. Dont let the nice interior and paint fool you. I had it up in the air and my wallet started crying. Interior is all TMI. My plans are to basically get it road ready and safe. As of now I have terrible bump steer and side to side play. Engine was running rough but I adjusted valves and fixed that issue first day. Suspension and brakes are first on my list. Then look into drivetrain.
 

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Welcome to the board.

That’s a great looking fixer upper,...looks more like a finished project.
Almost finished. Underneath the car needs ALOT of work still.
 

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Stock suspension I've come to find out. I'd say original too. Dont let the nice interior and paint fool you. I had it up in the air and my wallet started crying. Interior is all TMI. My plans are to basically get it road ready and safe. As of now I have terrible bump steer and side to side play. Engine was running rough but I adjusted valves and fixed that issue first day. Suspension and brakes are first on my list. Then look into drivetrain.
in no particular order
Vintage Mustang Suspension and Steering Friction Free Roller Bearing Performance - Opentracker Racing Products
Street or Track LLC
 

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Stock suspension I've come to find out. I'd say original too. Dont let the nice interior and paint fool you. I had it up in the air and my wallet started crying. Interior is all TMI. My plans are to basically get it road ready and safe. As of now I have terrible bump steer and side to side play. Engine was running rough but I adjusted valves and fixed that issue first day. Suspension and brakes are first on my list. Then look into drivetrain.
in no particular order
Vintage Mustang Suspension and Steering Friction Free Roller Bearing Performance - Opentracker Racing Products
Street or Track LLC
I would have never found this. Do you have these on your own car? Do you feel the difference? You have pics of it installed? Sorry for all the questions. 😂
 

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I would have never found this. Do you have these on your own car? Do you feel the difference? You have pics of it installed? Sorry for all the questions. 😂
I got most of my suspension from Mustangs Plus in the mid 90's before they changed there product line, and I built my own Adjustable strut rods.But My buddy @Huskinhano has all SOT and I've driven his car :thumbsup::thumbsup: And My other buddy @dobrostang I think has some Opentraker stuff :thumbsup::thumbsup:. These two companies come pretty highly recommended on this forum
 

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I have SoT's strut rods and they are a thing of beauty. No more squirrely behaviour when you step on the brakes or accelerate hard.
 

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Welcome! I took on the project of making my Mustang driving more like a modern car and not riding like a dump truck that’s typical of a lot of modified suspensions. Lotta guts for someone not really up on suspensions. The key is understanding the shortfalls of these cars. The other is understanding there’s a excellent chance the suspension is pretty used up by the time we get them.

The two big design flaws are poor camber curve and lousy alignment specs. Luckily both of these can be addressed cheaply. Once taken care of and these become fun cars to drive. When I started, my car was a real white knuckle driver. One of the scariest drives is when I moved and had to drive it 150 miles on the highway. I could not be near another car for fear of hitting it.

The big wear item that will make these cars drive awful are worn lower control arm bushings. I’d recommend inspecting all the suspension components for wear. As 2nd66 mentioned adjustable struts. These serve two purposes. They will allow for more, much needed caster. The other probably more important is that they eliminate the rubber biscuits which will give erratic handling and braking. Lowering the upper control arms aka Arning and Shelby drop is pretty much a free modification outside the cost of a 17/32” drill bit. This modification makes a huge difference and gives that go cart feeling.

This was one of my lower control arms, no wonder it was so scary.



This was the other lower arm

 

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Trying to get a safety inspection and the headlights and horns did not work Did some digging and found no power to the wires behind the wheel. It's my understanding that the light switch on the dash sends power up the column to the wheel correct? The dash lights work and the dogs and parking lights work like they are supposed to in the switches positions. Could that switch still be bad?
 

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Figured out the dimmer switch and wiring at the switch was the problem. Inspection is good to go and car is officially legal. 😎 as for suspension I got ball joints and lower control arms with a set of shocks from CJponyparts. Install was a breeze but while disassembling came across even more parts the change out. That's what happens with older vehicles. Should have known better. I ended up going with sts for the steering parts thanks to the recommendation from 2nd 66. I'll be getting the spring perches from there as well. Test drove the car after the work so far and it was still sloppy when steering and gets bad bump steer in the front.
 

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Figured out the dimmer switch and wiring at the switch was the problem. Inspection is good to go and car is officially legal. 😎 as for suspension I got ball joints and lower control arms with a set of shocks from CJponyparts. Install was a breeze but while disassembling came across even more parts the change out. That's what happens with older vehicles. Should have known better. I ended up going with sts for the steering parts thanks to the recommendation from 2nd 66. I'll be getting the spring perches from there as well. Test drove the car after the work so far and it was still sloppy when steering and gets bad bump steer in the front.
Welcome to project creep.the joint in that pic looks a little suspect
 

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So I've got her under the wrench today knocking out some suspension R&R. Was going smooth until I got to the spring perch. Left bolt would not come out with my 3/8 impact. Kept slipping. So I went in with a rathet... no luck kept slipping when I turn the ratchet and like a cam it it loping around til it slipped off. So I unbolted the upper control arm from the engine bay. Holy ship my shoulders were on fire. That damn bolt fought me until the last thread. It's all out now but I discovered these horseshoe like shims I've never seen before. Anybody can explain what their use is for? Should I clean them up and reuse or do I even need them?
 

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Turns out they are alignment shims. I asked my coworker who had one in high school. No offence to the old timers out there. 😂 anyways, as I'm putting it back together, I cant seem the get the perch to sit level to the ground without significant force. Is this where the roller perches come in handy? I've been fighting this perch for a couple hours now and can get it to where the spring will go into its spot. Any tips for this?
 

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What do you mean the drop? And yes I did get the new perches. Was gonna pack up and tackle it in the morning. But I'd like to know more about this UCA drop.
 

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What do you mean the drop? And yes I did get the new perches. Was gonna pack up and tackle it in the morning. But I'd like to know more about this UCA drop.
https://sep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-13525187779972/aarms.pdf
It Makes A World Of Difference In Handling Ability. But don't take my word for it ask around. Anyone that has done will agree
So to recap you got new perches ,are they roller or poly or stock rubber?
Here is a pretty solid recipe ,
UCA drop
roller/poly perchs
620 coils with a poly top hat, 1/2 loop removed if you like
export brace
Monte Carlo bar
1" sway bar w/poly bushings
adjustable strut rods with Heim joints/rod ends
@zray makes a really nice Boss 302 style cross member
Shocks ,well every one has a favorite I use KYB GAJ many like Bilstein And thwn you have the Koni fans
Alignment specs +4 or more caster. -.5 to -1.5 camber and 1/8" toe in
 
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