I suppose I could go tighter on the strut rods, but seems like it would just put the LCA into a bind on the mount point to the chassis.I'd say to check your strut rod bushings. It really appears to me that the LCA is too far back judging from the photos that I took of mine when I was rebuilding my suspension.
Have you checked that your upper Control arm shafts are centered left to right and the same on both sides? Most new arms are not assembled with consistent centering of the shafts. You want to ensure they are centered or slightly off center for more caster. Opentracker racing has some details on his website. From your pics, it looks as though you have some quality parts, so perhaps you already have blueprinted upper control arms.
Looking back at my notes, I did center the UCA when I got the new ones. One was off 1/16" and I fixed it. One was OK,
I did not offset the arms, just went for centered.Do you know your UCA shafts are centred? Did you deliberately offset them?
Ending up with a left and right arm, then put them on the wrong side?
From the pics I have before teardown it does look like the UCA is sitting forward as I have now.Was it this way before you did the work? If not, I guess I’m in the UCA off center camp. Are the strut rods correct for your car?
I can't say for sure on the bolt holes. One on the driver side was cracked and a little bit proud but I fixed it. Nothing on the front end frame ever looked like any accident had happened, but the valance and stone guard were not original. Could have been a fender bender or maybe something else that has things out of whack. But since it seems equal on both sides, I am thinking that is not the case.could be my imagination but it looks to me that your archive photo (stripped or silverish color shock tower) looks deformed around the bolt holes. The rear bolt hole appears proud slightly and the front is depressed a little. I think this car may have seen some action in its past, perhaps some "air time" ;o), I would forget about thinking no shims = 0 castor and shim the front to get to zero. AFter 50 years, believing anything is square on these cars (even out of the factory) is a fool's errand...
I also have a hard time believing the tool and 2x. IF the tool gives you camber readings directly, as in wheels pointed straight and install the gauge - read the measurement, then Castor is just the difference between Camber reading 20 degrees in and camber readings 20 degrees out.
If you see this as an option, well, there's your problem. This is not an optional adjustment on your car(unless I missed something). Get it right and forget it.I suppose I could go tighter on the strut rods, but seems like it would just put the LCA into a bind on the mount point to the chassis.
I have set 3/8" shims on all 4 corners as a starting point. Of course need to tweak some but this is where I am atTell me your current amount of caster, camber, and shim stack thicknesses at both the front and rear bolts. State whether + or - too.
If you see this as an option, well, there's your problem. This is not an optional adjustment on your car(unless I missed something). Get it right and forget it.
Set caster first. Bounce it and roll it back and forth some after every adjustment and measurement.
Yes for starting point. The manual says 1/32" shim = ~ 0.5° caster so max I can get is 1° of adjustment as you are limited to 1/16" mismatch front to back. So if I shimmed 1/16" more on front I still have negative caster.3/8” on all for corners??? To gain positive caster the front of the UCA has to be spaced out rather than the rear. Have no shims on the rear studs of my UCA’s.
Forget about that if you are trying to align the car with positive caster for modern tires. You will end with nearly no shims a the rear bolt and max possible shims at the front bolt. That's not a problem, my car have been driven like that for years. The suspension wasn't originally designed for positve caster, because that wasn't used with vintage tires.....as you are limited to 1/16" mismatch front to back.
Got it. Seems like that is the consensus. Thanks for all your helpPersonality, I wouldn’t worry about the 1/16” mismatch side to side. Remember your car is now 54 years old. Do you really think it’s within 1/16” side to side?
First off, thanks for the help!I'd do the following:
Front bolt: add 1/8" - 5/32"
Rear bolt: remove 3/16"
Front bolt: add 7/32"
Rear bolt: remove 7/32"
I created a spreadsheet awhile back to minimize trial and error. The above should keep your camber at -1 and get you roughly +2.5 caster.
Thanks for this! Makes more sense now that I can see the equation. Quite simple actually. And now we know where the "2" and "1.5" factors come from....Caster = 180/3.1416*(C1-C2)/(T1-T2).
C1-C2 is the camber difference at wheel turn from T1 to T2.
For 20 degrees wheel turn each way (40 total), you would have to multiply your measured camber difference by ~1.432 to get caster.
For 15 degrees (30 total), you’d multiply by ~1.91
When you see the 1.5 and 2 multipliers they are just rounding the above numbers.
Bubbles are so 1990s!!!! (but simple and don't need batteries!!) I bet there is an app for our phones to do caster.....Good Lord...I like math, but I’m glad I bought a Longacre bubble gauge.