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Discussion Starter #61 (Edited)
I broke my handiest spot weld cutter the other day. It's a cheap Harbor Freight wood chisel. It works extremely well for knocking through spot welds.

I used it on the pass side removing the floor pan from the inner rocker. It works so well you don't need to drill or grind the spot welds in many cases because many of the spot welds were poorly done and barely holding or in many cases I found a few spots almost 6" long that the spot welds didn't hold anything. Very very bad spot welds have been a common theme on this car. Also that is my favorite hammer. It is a 3 pound or so brass oil field hammer. Once you use one you will never wand to use a steel hammer. It's dense and small and doesn't ruin everything...




Here is my repaired chisel. Repaired with a chunk of 6cyl stabilizer bar as they are worthless... That is a chunk of seam sealer the assembly line guy tossed in the rocker panel to make noise.



Here the pass side is almost ready for the new vert inner rocker. The only thing left was do drill 100 plug weld holes in the new piece. Will get it installed tomorrow.





Picked up a new quarter locally for a good price. I'm hoping the menehune (Hawaiian thing)will do me a favor and get that thing installed for me one night.



I may also be picking up a new hood next week. Not sure yet as that will take a big chunk of funds away from more needed sheet metal. It's a 65-66 shelby hood. I was preferring to do a 67 styleon it but will probably get overruled by the better 3/4.

The plan is to turn the AC on early in the morning and get the pass side rail installed and go from there.
 

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The plan is to get all the crap out from inside the car and sort through the good parts the new parts and the scrap metal. Then pull the drivetrain and get it moved out to the shop where I can get it stripped down and on a rotisserie if I find a deal on one or build one. Then start the stripping, priming and sheetmetal repair.
Rule #1, never throw anything and I mean ANYTHING away until the car is done. I could tell you horror stories about nameplate locations, small unnoticed brackets, and so on you wouldn't believe.


One quarter has filler the other has some rust and the rockers have dents. The radiator support has been mashed around from allot of bad handling in its life of storage. Will focus on getting the rad support replaced before it is on a rotisserie.
Yep, you need structure for that.

I am looking into a front suspension upgrade as there are so many i am comparing them. The short block was rebuilt many years ago and has never run. I may look into an explorer drivetrain as I also want to fuel inject it as well. Lots of other areas will be custom as factory correct doesn't do anything for me. I like to improve what I can where i can.
The Arning Drop is all you need, accompanied by a 1" front bar, and top quality export brace. Inexpensive and very effective.

Also what is the preferred way of hosting pictures here? I used to use photobucket but.... Why does the drag and drop flip the pictures upside down???????
I use the attachments paperclip. Never fails.
 

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Discussion Starter #63 (Edited)
Got the AC going early in the shop so it's been nice out there most of the day. The coolest it gets is about 83 with some spots warmer. Metal buildings are a pain to insulate and condition efficiently.... I got some done and decided to call it quits for the day and it's quite warm outside.


I got the pass side rail mostly installed. Like the drivers side I have allot of clamps on the bottom side and few welds as the car isn't high enough to get under there and weld it up.






I did not remove the pass side seat base. I just cut it narrower and flanged the rest of it. The drivers side will be shortened and moved to the rear as much as possible. I'm not too worried about any difference between the two at this time.


I have 2" square tube standing up in the corner of the shop and I should have enough to make up a u shape support for the rear with wheels on the bottom and bolted to the spring mounts and for the front I think it will have to be a single pipe to the front then T off and support the pinch welds. I plan to raise the car about 10" from where it sits on top of 16" tall jack stands on the pinch welds.


As you can see below yes the weather is horrible and I desperately want to move.
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
More parts at the door from the big brown truck. Some didn't get delivered and UPS called to tell me and they had a conveyor belt go down so not everything got sorted. No biggie as I still have more on the way before I get started with these pieces.

Somehow I ended up ordering a two piece fender apron for the pass side and a one piece for the drivers side. Not too worried about it. The box of the one piecer was open on both sides and had been a little dented but it hadn't lost it's bag of u-nuts.






If all goes well tomorrow I will pick up a big cool part and will post pics when I get it home... Gotta see if it will fit in the Sorento or if I need the trailer...

Got some more house remodeling to work on so that takes priority and waiting for other parts to come in anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Ok here is the cool part for the car. LOML and I picked it up today from a local restoration company which has a bunch of cool cars for sale. Several of the big 3 but also a nice black Testarossa a great looking Jag E type an Aston and other cool cars. They do have a 70 mach 1 for sale as well.


This took a chunk of funds that was destined for more pressing sheet metal but it was a good price and it is the hood she wants on the car so might as well grab it now. It wasn't a massive deal but it was a good deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
Well a brown truck dropped off some more parts today and I decided to mock up a few and see how they looked/fit.







And a few cleco clamps holding the fender aprons in place. (cleco clamps not clecos)






Yes I would have rather had the assembled units but that would have nearly doubled the cost of parts and as you can see it needs allot.

The frame rails look pretty good. They are a little thicker than the factory ones and not bent up... The ends where the rad support go are pretty square not an angle like I have seen others have to deal with.

If you see that 2" square tubing I am thinking of building a body stand out of it so I can get the car up higher to make it easier to work on. That's why the boards are under the jack stands to start cribbing it up to the work height.
Hopefully I can get some done this weekend but I still have to finish up lighting and outlets etc in a shop which is well over 100*, no insulation and no airflow and all metal building.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Ok no appreciable progress but I have been doing allot of measuring and just sitting there staring here and there and comparing new with old and going through where everything is and where it should be.

Here is a pic of my comparison checking arrangement....
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No I didn't remove the swaybar bracket yet I wanted to put the pieces on the car and see how things were going to fit... You can see the patch that was welded on under the battery the bent up lower LCA mount and yes there was a LCA in there with it that bent. That frame rail is also bent right in the middle. It's ugly. I could have removed the shock tower and aprons then straightened the frame rail and replaced the outside of it but why...

So far things are looking Ok alignment wise. The locating hole in the new frame rail and the one in the shock tower line up very well compared to the old parts.
The apron fits Ok. The lower rear part is a little off same as everyone else has to deal with. The fender bracket at the front will have to be removed as it is about a half inch too far back (same issue as everyone else).


In all my lying under the car and staring and measuring I kept having an issue. The front floor supports just don't seem to be in the right place front to rear. The gap between the end of the support and the flange sticking off the frame rail is too small. It's usually about a finger width and mine is smaller. I finally figured out the issue is that the floor supports are longer than the factory ones...

Plan is to turn the AC on in the shop in the morning and get the floor supports in their final position and start with the pass frame rail. I am finding so many discrepancies in the multiple of printed plans that I have decided to use it as a reference but not a definite measurement. Once I start getting frame rails into place I will square it up and make sure the parts all fit together.
I had to use the cross measurements from a 67 for the front floor support hole to the hole in the rear frame rail. My 66 only has the rear hole it does not have the forward locating hole shown in the diagrams.


Also I have my body support almost finished. I need a couple more pieces of square tubing and bits to get it finished. It will put the bottom of the rocker panels about 24" off the ground. I can't see spending $500 for a body cart when a 2 post lift is $1200....
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Well no pics today and I see the forum update has removed every single linked image from my thread so I will have to go back and update them at some point.....

It's finally cooling off and getting nice enough to work on the car again. I piddled with it a little today. I needed more access under the car to weld so I have it up higher now. The bottom of the pinch welds are at 24" off the floor. Still a little low but better. It's held up by cribbing and not as stable as I'd like it at the moment but good enough to weld under.

I started to finish off the welds on the vert inner rockers. Well... I made the mistake of doing it the way everyone else does even though I knew better... Everyone drills holes in the new rockers. Well that makes welding a royal PITA because you are welding in a hole trying to get penetration on the old inner rocker. Well the weld likes to go to the new inner rocker instead... Up top it isn't as bad because you can see more of what it going on and at more comfortable working position...
The proper way to weld the vert inner rockers on is to drill holes through the original outer and inner rockers. This allows you to weld from the outside where it is much easier to work and you can get a better weld and since the new parts are much thicker you should be welding to them and not the other way around.... If I had done it the right way they would have welded in much much faster and way easier and can be assured of a better weld.

So I will weld up all the holes I have in the new inner rockers but in spots along the bottom I am going to drill holes from the outside and weld it on or seam weld at the bottom in areas I am not 100% happy with the welds.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Ok tiny bit of progress if you want to call it that. I spent about an hour under the car welding some of the floor pan to the vert rails. So much fun to weld upside down..... After a little bit of that I started looking at the positions of the floor supports. I roughly got everything into place a while back now I am getting it where it needs to be so it can be welded in.

After looking it over and seeing just how crappy the new floor supports are and that they don't fit with the crossmember because the original floor supports were bent in a perfect 180* U. The new ones aren't even close as they are 1/4" wider at the top and the flanges are off as well. So I messed with it to see how much it will take and they are going to take allot of bending to get them close. I left them in C clamps nice and tight and will work at bending them later...



As you can see it's nowhere near 90*.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Was a really nice weekend here which is very rare here on Crematoria. Mid 70s which we only get a few of here between summer and not quite summer again.... Got a little done but just enjoyed being outside for a change.


I did a bunch of work to the front floor supports to get them into the right shape. C clamps hammer etc... I have the floor supports tacked into place. They are as close as I can get them to where they should be considering the floppyness of the old steel etc.





I got the replacement piece of the floor pan drilled for all it's weld holes. I also trimmed the seat support and bent the flanges on the outside to fit with the vert inner rocker.







My original plan was to shorten the drivers side seat support and move it back but I am rethinking that. The seat support has a big role in support for the front frame structure. It keeps the rear of the front seat support in place. I don't like the idea of the front floor support only having floor pan over it and no sturdy bracing. Those seat supports really should have reached further back to the rear of the factory position seat support. That would have made the structure much stronger.
I'm going to see what I can come up with for reinforcement so I can move the seat support back.





I didn't get much done this weekend on the car but I did allot of shop rearranging and cleaning. But back to making progress again.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Ok spent a little time in the shop. Was 20 this morning and this afternoon the shop was still 52*...

I spent a while measuring over and over again and looking over placement of parts and I wasn't happy with the distance between the floor supports. Its supposed to be 27.5" from inside edge to inside edge and I wasn't happy with it so I ground off my tack welds and started over again after a little more massaging of the cross member etc.

Every measurement I have seen for the inside of frame rail to rail is 27.5". Now if you do that the centers of the front floor supports are less than the 30" that is on the Liskey diagram and if you did 30" your floor supports would be hanging out away from the flanges on the crossmember. So that 29.8 ish in the ford drawing is more correct. The more I go the more issues I find in that liskey drawing and I use it as another set of numbers but only use it as a reference not as actual measurements.



Using the level and square gave me an accurate reference point that I could measure at two points to check width and if they are parallel. Once I got them in place I spot welded them again... However someone totally forgot to drill the plug weld holes for the front frame welds before they were tacked the first time and then forgot a second time... So I will drill them in place after they are all welded in. Not ideal but the front supports are where they need to be and I'm not taking them off again.





Here you can see my alignment bar that has a socket that plugs into the alignment holes in the frame. Very handy to have a permanent jig so you don't have to keep remeasuring.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Thanks, it's starting to go together. I got the hard welds done first between the front floor support and the crossmember. The 4 inside ones which are a royal pain.. Then I got the pan trimmed and in place and started welding it in and on one weld it wouldn't penetrate and... Yeah ran out of gas... So I gotta swap out this bottle for a full one.

This one is a praxair that I picked up when HD was selling their stuff. Not sure how much of a pain it will be to exchange at Praxair. The deal at Depot was better at the time as you paid a deposit and not a lease or rental fee so I dunnow how it will work out. Unfortunately we no longer have local welding supply stores as they all belong to the big companies now. If I have issues I may end up buying an owner bottle or one from Throughbred as they are owner bottles and they have lots of exchange places.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Well I swapped out my argon bottle and wow was that painful. I am going to have to find a deal on a big hopefully 320cf owner bottle cause the gas places are really expensive now. If anyone has a welding supply that doesn't rake you over the coals for gas in the Fort Worth area let me know.


I did a little welding. Got the drivers side pan almost all welded in. Just a couple upside down plug welds to the vert rockers left. That upside down stuff is a pain as well as the stuff under the dash... I wish there was a smaller helmet that made it easier to stick your head in so you can see what you are doing...




I also shoved the toe board in to see how it was looking. As you can see I flanged the new piece. This makes the pan even with the old one and holds it in place much easier than a full butt weld. So I still have to weld from the bottom but it is easier with that extra layer of steel soaking up a little heat to avoid burn through. You can see two notches in that flange. One is for the seat support when it goes back in and the other is where the crossmember is and I have to weld it from the top.
Once all the welds are done on the bottom of the pan and smoothed it will look like a butt weld because it almost is. If I wanted to I could trim off the flange on the inside afterwards and it would end up looking like a butt weld. Most likely I will leave the flange. It's covered by the carpet so who cares and the flange adds a little strength anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Spent the weekend welding under the car. Sorry no pics from underneath I took these before heading in. Lots of spot welds all around that panel and you can see them from the top in this pic. Still have cleco holes and screw holes on the bottom to plug up. Gotta find my copper backer to plug those holes.



And I spent this afternoon fitting the drivers lower firewall aka toeboard. I have had to do a bunch of bending to it as it is much flatter overall than the original. It's getting pretty close and test fits with the frame rail look good as well.




At some point I will have to plug that clutch hole unless I find another use for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Spent a little bit of time fitting parts this afternoon since it was a nice 75*.



Those fenders are junk. I am going to look at a couple pairs of factory fenders as I would rather do a little work to them then lots of mods to aftermarket fenders. I'm still short a rad support and a few other pieces up front. Using the stock braces for now as well just to keep it from flopping around.

I am a little unhappy with the position of the pass side front floor support. Without ripping out the floor pan and seat support on the pass side I can't get the floor support as level as I want it to be. It has a slight dip towards the front of the car. Most likely from countless times of someone jacking up the car by the back of the floor support (lots of evidence of that).
So it looks like I will have to just live with it being a little downhill to the front as it isn't worth ripping everything apart on that side when it can be adjusted out before welding the frame rail in place.




This side has the Musclecar GT preassembled fender apron. Do not buy it..... The two pieces were not jigged properly so the holes don't line up to the shock tower. They had them too far apart so I will have to drill out their spot welds and rewed it. Also the fender bracket is too far back and will require being taken off and rewelded. Basically back to loose parts to assemble...
Also the very bottom flange to the firewall tucks in too far and needs a slit to make room then reweld it.



I tacked the lower firewall piece in place while test fitting the frame rail. The drivers rail is still a hare forward and there is a gap between the apron flange and firewall but that gap is bigger than how much further back the frame rail needs to go (roughly). This side has the one piece fender apron. (I screwed up on the order and only got the drivers side in 1 piece)







A better picture of that gap between the fender apron and firewall. The lower part of the floor pan is only tacked at the top so it is free to move at the bottom right now. That piece isn't right either as the bump out going to the frame rail sticks out further than the original and the angle of the whole piece is overall too flat. Still need a little massaging once the frame rail is where it needs to be.


Basically I wanted to get the fenders on and see how the holes were lining up in the fender aprons as that gives me a good indication of how things are lining up with the frame rails and fender aprons. The fender mount holes were looking pretty good on both sides which also leads me to think that the one piece apron is a little off at the firewall. More checking will answer that.
 
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