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Discussion Starter #81
Just a quick update. More fitting and adjusting and it's looking pretty good. Need to get the doors aligned perfect and then I can see how the new fenders align. I picked up fenders today and from first impressions they seem to fit pretty well. Just a couple known issues they all have but pretty good overall. Considering they are hanging by two loose screws they don't look bad.






 

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Discussion Starter #82
Been playing with the fenders today. Was 84* here in the beginning of February so car building temps are coming to an end as it will be too hot before too long...

The drivers fender fits pretty well. I can get all the bolts in without issue including the stone shield and valance. The only issue is the lower part to the valance as it curls too tight. Not too much of an issue to fix. If I had a stretcher it would be really easy... The fender is seated against the factory tab on the cowl and bolted (important for later)



The pass side took some work. I had to grind off most of the factory tab on the cowl and there is very little of it left. The interior brace was installed a little off from where it should be. It also pulls the top corner down a little as the fender needs to be opened up a little. Think a C shape and it will make sense. I cannot install the rear bolt that goes through the door on this side. It is way too far to the outside and that nut will be unusable. I will either have to install another nut or a riv nut. Also I have to have a gap between the tab and the fender of around 1/4". If I move it rearwards the door gap will be too tight and the fender would hit the A pillar.




As of now everything up front is held together with screws, clecos, cleco clamps, C clamps and regular hardware. I am just about happy with how everything is fitting together and almost ready to weld all those pieces where they are. So the next step is to fiddle a little more do some more checking and then start with the many many plug welds... and seam welds on the frame rails as the spot welds come apart too easy and I don't trust them.

I decided to put my beat up headlight buckets and grille etc on to see how they fit overall. Again to make sure things are where they should be. The only factory parts up front that are reusable are the hood latch bracket and support and the lower grille molding thing. The rest will all need new parts.




I have a steel frame I will put under the front end to support it while welding. I have to keep adjusting it as those buckets deform under the weight over time. The current setup doesn't get in the way as much so that's why I haven't changed over yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Massive tragedy in the shop the other day... I opened the freezer on the mini fridge and the ice cream was not frozen.... This is a very serious issue.... The better 3/4 bought it for me for 2018 christmas and luckily she bought the extended warranty. I filed it and they took care of it within a few hours.. The issue is the thermostat and I have ordered one. If it still has issues then I will use the giftcard they sent to buy a replacement.
TIP If you buy a mini fridge pay for the warranty it was well worth it.



Ok spent some time in the shop and under the car measuring for the 100th or so time. I'm just about ready to start welding it all together. Probably this weekend after one final check.

I replaced the high tech upside down cat litter tub cribbing with a steel support I originally made as part of a body cart I did not finish... It will not sink down like the plastic did...


Overall I am happy with the fit of the fenders etc. Actually better than I expected them to be. I don't expect perfect but for what they are and the age of the car and really they are cheap parts they aren't bad.

So maybe an update this weekend of some welded parts...
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Quick update. Most importantly I got the new thermostat installed in the mini fridge and it is doing well after it's transplant. Just need to keep adjusting it as it is freezing everything in the fridge side right now....

Spent the day welding. Got the seat supports welded to the vert inner rockers etc and I got the frame rails welded in as well. Yes I know I shouldn't show my welds on the internet...
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Ok after getting those frame rails welded in I stripped everything off the front of the car again... And the doors.... Got the firewall and cowl sides blasted so I can get them primed before welding all the stuff in the way in the front.

I started off with the usual barrage of sanders and wirewheel grinders but there was the factory paint covered by some other paint and a thick gummy coat of Rustoleum. All I was doing was making a gummy mess and burning electrons, wearing my arms out and not getting anywhere.
30 minutes with the blaster it was all done. I had plastic over the area for most of it to contain the mess but I'd much rather clean up abrasive then spend hours playing with sandpaper and wire wheels stripping that paint off. I like the crushed glass better than coal slag for thin steel because you can remove the paint layer by layer if you want to. It's slower because it's less aggressive but works pretty well. Need to find somewhere local to pick up a pallet of it for the bottom of the floor.

Next is to get it primed and I will shoot a coat of black paint on the firewall. Hopefully one of the paint guys is at the swapmeet this weekend. It's a smaller one which they usually don't show up to though. All I have is gloss black acrylic enamel. I prefer a urethane black with a little less gloss for the engine compartment.





 

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Discussion Starter #88
Did more prep since the previous pictures and primed the firewall and cowl sides. Now to get back to welding stuff in place. I wanted to get that big area stripped and primed while the aprons were off and it was easier to get it done. So back to welding and then will prime those areas later. With the primer on it's easier to see as when it was black it was like working in a black hole.





 

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Discussion Starter #89
Random welding yesterday of the firewall patch a few missed welds here and there and I patched the gaping hole left by someone in the late 70s early 80s for a big ugly shifter.





I'll trim it and clean it up a little more but it's under the carpet so no need to waste time making it look perfect. Next I need to fill in the extra holes around the shifter hump but need to figure out which ones need to stay...
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Been a while since an update. I have been making progress.

I have the frame rails, radiator support and fender aprons welded in. Well all but a few welds that I will do later.








The drivers side is a one piece unit and fit Ok.

The passenger side was a two piece one from Muscle car GT and like I have mentioned earlier it doesn't fit worth a crap. It is a Do not buy item. The firewall side wasn't even close anywhere. The two pieces were put together made it longer than the stock one. The fender holes were off overall. One of the holes for the spring cover wasn't drilled... Either go with the one piece which isn't bad or buy another brands separate panel pieces.





Getting a start on the quarter panel prep work... Both will be replaced. The drivers was mashed up on the bottom. The drop off is bent up but repairable with a hammer and dolly.




The pass side was rusted out so I will have to order a dropoff for that side. I have that quarter panel already. I still need a drivers side quarter though. Also has a nice coat of burnt rubber that has been on there since the 80s.





I have lots and lots of welds to grind down bur I will do them all once the majority of the welding is done. I am debating weather to go ahead and do the quarters now while it sits there or... Go ahead and flip the car over to clean, blast and prime the underside of the car. Replacing the quarters on a nice clean underside is a whole lot more pleasant and easier than with it covered in dirt and undercoating etc...

I am planning to build my own rotisserie. For the price of a rotisserie I can buy a 2 post lift so yeah I'm not buying a rotisserie as they are just overpriced and a 2 post lift is far more useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Got a little more done the last couple days. Have now started to work on the rear half of the car. Pulled the rear glass. There was the typical rust holes you find in all cars of this era. Unavoidable unless you replace that section with stainless steel as there is no way for water to drain out of those corners. It will rust on every car no matter how you treat the steel.












I also started removal of the pass quarter panel.





That tape is one proposed area to cut the panel off. The trunk lip etc is in perfect shape as is the rear panel.There is a dent in the fin of the quarter.

If I can get it to work out of the way I may look at making the cut on the side of the quarter to save the sharper factory corner and then leave tail corner in place as well. This side has the trunk dropoff that needs to be replaced as well.

Might get more done this week.... Were planning to fly to Cleveland next week but the flights are full and getting s seat is going to be tough until they start running more flights (a week after we get home). So we are going to drive. (2 days and 20 hours of driving UGH). Found a pair of doors I want to try and pick up and will pick up the drivers quarter in OKC. Also on my list is headlight buckets and spindle or spindles.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
More quarter time. I was looking at cutting it near that tape line but it would just create allot more work that it was worth to do it that way.
There was a couple of rust spots in the bend of the outer wheelhouse. This is one of those pick your battle scenarios. Since I only had 3 areas that were bad and the rest was fine it was much easier to cut out the bad parts and replace that steel. In the below pic the rust is in the lower rear pocket the top middle and the outside of the lower front. The trunk dropoff also gets replaced. I am also using the wheel house lip repair as a possible excuse to buy a shrinker stretcher if I need it on the drivers side.


The front patched.



The middle patched.




And the rear. This one even with the compound curve took less time than the other two since there was less welding.


Still a little finish grinding to do on those patches but they turned out pretty good. I have to do some more work to the sail panel area for the new panel to fit but I had to put the new one in place to see how it was going so far. Not sure if I will cut the top off the new panel and weld it to the old piece or pull it out entirely and install the new one in one piece as I don't see why it wouldn't go in.



And yes those are gap and other locating dimensions written all over the place. The lines on the factory quarter didn't line up very well with the factory door so... That said the replacement seems to line up to the door better. Those rust holes in the rear glass area I may wait and weld up for when I get a rotisserie built as those little patches will be much easier to work on when I can roll the car. Rotisseries are overpriced and never available used unless you want to buy the car that is mounted on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Thanks guys. It's getting there. I really would like to get it on wheels by the end of the year. So... I could maybe get a project for me next spring.

Just a quick update. I blasted and primed all the areas that will be covered up by the quarter panel. I didn't grind out all those repair welds to be perfectly smooth cause there isn't a reason to waste time on making something perfectly smooth that you will never see. Still a little trimming to do to get the new quarter in place etc and that will be the next project.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Minor update...

I spent some time and removed the rest of the quarter panel. I chose to remove the strip under the sail panel as there was some surface rust on the inside of the car. I drilled the spot welds out then using an assortment of tools I cut the spot welds holding the remnant of the quarter in.
I used an assortment of chisels, thin blade saws, my custom spotweld chisel, Milwaukee m12 ossilating tool. The one that is the most useful here is my old Stanley full tang putty knife. The old ones were well made and I keep it sharpened as well as one side and it will cut through sheet metal. I really need to find some more of them as the current ones are junk. Funny thing is I lost this putty knife years ago. I found it and one of my wrenches for an air tool when I got the car in my shop. I had left them in the car way back when my friends mom was working on it.




And a quick first rough dry fit of the new quarter.





So far it's fitting fairly well. And yes it is possible to install an entire quarter on a 65-66 in one piece however you do have to knock a tiny bit of the corner off of the quarter window area piece to clear. It's buried in the door and will never be seen.

The bottom front is flapping out as I didn't bend the rocker flange yet. After that I will see how the lines on the door to quarter line up. I see many complaints bout this area but if you look at the original... The lines on the original door and quarter didn't line up very well from the factory so the aftermarket was copying original parts that didn't fit so...

Back out to get more done... I have sound deadening panels ordered and want to put a few in places on the inside of the quarter and around the wheel house before I weld the quarter on. Easier to do it now than later.

And no those are not the recalled jack stands. They are 25+ year old ones.
 
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