Vintage Mustang Forums banner

101 - 113 of 113 Posts

·
Dimples
Joined
·
4,702 Posts
Nice. I'll be working on quarter panel replacement soon (next month or so). Helpful to see these nice photos.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Discussion Starter #102
Let me know and I can come lend a hand.

Got a little more done. Welded in the trunk dropoff. Sorry no pic of it. Did a little fiddling and another test fit that went much better. I removed some of the brass at the trunk corner but not enough for the new panel to sit down low enough yet at the back so the rest is a hare off still.

On the door I have written a bunch of measurements of gaps between the door and also how high or low the lines on the factory quarter were. I think I will be able to get the lines to match up better than the factory panel just by the looks so far.



As you can see the rear is still sitting a little high as the excess brass won't let the panel drop any more. Will decide if I want to remove more or trim the lip on the quarter. I think the panel will get trimmed right now.



And yeah that body line at the tip is going to require some filler to get it sharper when I get to that point....I gave up for the day. The AC helps allot but I know it needs cleaning and it's a 2 ton and heavy to remove to clean. I may end up with a sprinkler on the roof this weekend as that keeps the shop much cooler and it waters the grass at the same time. Well water temp is 70.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,913 Posts
My pass side fit better than the driver's side. I too have the same trunk lip area to address. I thought about borrowing friends tig welder and welding in a small diameter rod and work it from there.

Check your extension to see how it fits. I had to really work on the driver's side to get it to line up. i found that when the parts were stamped they just didn't have enough bend in the tight areas causing them to flare out more where the tail light mounts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Discussion Starter #104
I checked the fit of the extension back when I got the quarter and it was actually pretty good. I was out there looking at it and after a quick look I think I am going to reuse the rear section of the quarter panel. I think it will eliminate some issues as I would be making the quarter fit the shape of the extension will be easier than making the whole assm fit the tail panel.

I'm also thinking if I want to braze the quarter to decklid filler panel like the factory did. Makes sense as it keeps that joint tight. They also liked to fill in other gaps in the sheet metal with brass as well.

I fired up the AC this morning before I mowed (I have never had to mow in July or August) headed in the shop after mowing turned on the well to water the grass and got started... It was 90* 72% humidity with a heat index of 107* at 11am... It's miserable out there and it's going to be 105+ and super humid for the next week.... So I felt the headache coming on and I was already drenched in sweat so I quit for the week unless it cools off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Discussion Starter #105
Well I fired up the AC early this morning and got some more done on the quarter.

Here is another test fit of the quarter. A little more removing of the brass that was in the way and it's fitting better. Next will be the issues with it.




Ok its fitting well most everywhere except for this area in the rear. Now you can see the lower part of the quarter is flared out a little. This is because the lower part of the quarter isn't folded up enough. As you can see int eh side by side the factory one is basically horizontal where as the replacement is at an angle.

Now another issue that you can see some evidence of here is there is a jog of the top and bottom piece that wrap around the tail light. The replacement one is flat so the tail light doesn't fit flush. That can be fixed with a little beating but...




Now the other issue that you might be able to pick out on this picture is that the overall stamping is drawn too deep. If you compare the bulge at the bottom left of both pieces you can easily see that the replacement piece sticks out quite a bit more than the factory piece. There is a little gap in the extension because part of the rubber is still in it and the flange isn't folded square enough.

This is really strange for replacement sheet metal typically parts are not stamped deep enough. The plan is to cut the excess off of the old piece then drill out the spot welds on the new one and then put the old one on. The bottom of the quarter will need a little trimming of the lip so it can be rotated up into place and bring it tight to the trunk dropoff.





And a picture of the quarter to door gap. As I suspected earlier the body lines line up much better to the door than the original quarter did. The lines for the scoop area were quite a bit off on the factory parts but this one fits much better there. The factory gaps were wide at the top and bottom and slightly tighter in the middle.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Discussion Starter #106
Another quickie. Since I have not been able to get replacement cartridges for any of my masks that I use for painting I bought a constant flow system for it. I have another oiless compressor that it will run off of and so far it's not bad. It will be a little clunky but I don't have to worry about filters going bad and the big problem is that most available are fake filters that don't work. It also gives a nice supply of cool dry air which is very nice.

Anyway something for others to look into with all the counterfeit filters out there and this kit cost basically the amount of 2 packs of filters. And the air it supplies is outside the shop air so no worry of chemicals from paint in it.

It also has other uses like in the attic when blowing insulation in...


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Discussion Starter #107
Quarter panel update. I removed the panel from the new one and cleaned up the original and got the factory one fit into place. The bottom of the quarter now has enough room to roll around and tuck up to the trunk drop off. I was able to line up the factory piece using the holes I drilled it out with and then bolted it back on.




The extension fits better now. It's sticking out a little because there are screws that it's sitting on.






Not perfect but with a little work it will be acceptable. The trunk gutter isn't the best shape. It's quite a bit more open than the original so getting the gap to the trunk lid tight enough will be an issue. If I can't tighten it up I may end up tig welding a rod onto the edge of the trunk lid to make up some of the gap.

Next I will take it apart to prep and prime a few areas that I won't be able to get to later and then I am going to apply a layer of sound deadening material to the quarter and to the wheel house because it's easy to do now with it all apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Discussion Starter #108
Quick update before welding the quarter on. I did a little sound deadening to the quarter and the wheel well while it was all apart. A little overkill but it was all open and easy to get to so why not. Makes the panels have a satisfying thud when you tap them instead of a cheap tingy sound. Going to be a very quiet car at this rate.






And the quarter prepped with a bunch of holes and ready to weld on. Just need to do a little more alignment checking before I weld it in place.




I also had a big truck deliver the pass side door skin yesterday. Very nice looking stamping and the body lines are sharper than the factory ones. The factory pieces are a little more rounded than the new piece which doesn't bother me. I wish the corner on the quarter was as sharp as the doors.

One thing i have noticed is that the steel used for the sail panels is the thinnest metal on the car. It's just slightly thicker than paper but not by much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Discussion Starter #109
Quick little tease of what is to come next....

As you can see I blasted and epoxy primed the original piece of the quarter panel. It fit better than the one that was on the new quarter. The rear valance doesn't quite turn up enough at the rear to fit the quarter so it will need some work. It looks worse in the pic since the pinch weld still needs a little more trimming to get it out of the way. All the rest of the holes lined up except for the far right one which is a little too far out and a little low which makes sense as to it's fit.



And a quick pic of the door skin hanging in place. It is a very nice looking stamping and like mentioned before the sharp trim lines are sharper than the original door. The only difference I see so far is the piece at the top and front of the door where the vent window is. Will take comparative pics when I get to it and will see if it's an issue.

 

·
Dimples
Joined
·
4,702 Posts
Looking good man, keep it up. I still think you're gonna get through with paint before I do. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
I dunnow you are making allot of progress and starting with a really nice car. I have to come up with a drivers side spindle still and verify my pass side is the right one. I gotta make a trip to your place to pick up that wheel well one day. Might haul the spindle with me to compare to yours. The casting numbers are unreadable.

Edit make that I have the drivers side. The pass side is a spindle from a 70 something IIRC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Another quickie. Since I have not been able to get replacement cartridges for any of my masks that I use for painting I bought a constant flow system for it. I have another oiless compressor that it will run off of and so far it's not bad. It will be a little clunky but I don't have to worry about filters going bad and the big problem is that most available are fake filters that don't work. It also gives a nice supply of cool dry air which is very nice.

Anyway something for others to look into with all the counterfeit filters out there and this kit cost basically the amount of 2 packs of filters. And the air it supplies is outside the shop air so no worry of chemicals from paint in it.

It also has other uses like in the attic when blowing insulation in...


Thanks for the heads up on the respirator kit. Saw it on Amazon and it came today, all the fittings are installed and came with a replacement filter. Changed the airline fittings for high flow and installed an inline filter drier on the line coming in. Sprayed base and clear on a fender, front and rear valances, + rear quarter extensions. So much cleaner and less smelly than using the clip on organic filters. This set up also eliminates the sweat I get in the mask. Works great..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
788 Posts
Discussion Starter #113 (Edited)
Thanks for the heads up on the respirator kit. Saw it on Amazon and it came today, all the fittings are installed and came with a replacement filter. Changed the airline fittings for high flow and installed an inline filter drier on the line coming in. Sprayed base and clear on a fender, front and rear valances, + rear quarter extensions. So much cleaner and less smelly than using the clip on organic filters. This set up also eliminates the sweat I get in the mask. Works great..

It's been working very well for me. I use a separate compressor for it than the one I use for painting. It is a little cumbersome having the regulator and extra hose but it is nice to have clean air I don't have to worry about and that cool dry air on the face makes it much more comfortable. Also doesn't take long to pay for itself.
I'll post a pic of the fake filters I have and part of the reason I made the switch.

Glad it's working for you as well.


Quick addition. I am also thinking of making another bleed from the spray gun end since I don't use it. I am thinking of a small bleed into my spray suit for a little cool air and to help keep some of the fumes out. Basically the home made version of a fresh air suit...
 
101 - 113 of 113 Posts
Top