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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
I mounted the rear axle and suspension in the last few days. The front shocks, TCI says to mount them with the stem downwards, no mention of doing that at the rear but I thought I would just continue the tradition.
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I thought I would put the axles and brakes in after the axle was installed.
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The rear brakes came with the car and the previous owner had mounted them upper front in relationship to the axle. This meant the ebrake cable would come at an impossible angle and the brake bleed nipples were pointing down. He did this as they would not clear the upper rear frame rail, wheelhouse etc. I corrected this previously and I dismantled the calipers and had them and the mounting brackets etc, powder coated also. I rebuilt the calipers with new seal kits.
I just need to order new bolts for the brakes and panhard rod to finish it off. I used dust seals from Seals-it on all the heim joints, front and rear.
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I also mounted the front calipers. The rotors I had powder coated because who likes rusty rotors.
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Then came the day, after maybe 3 years, when I could put the wheels back on the car again instead of being on the rotisserie or dolly wheels. I know I will have to take them off again but it looks more like a car. Each day I can unpack more parts and fit them and throw out / recycle the boxes and packing, its a nice feeling.
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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Working on the car is an excuse to buy more tools. I needed to put a bead on the aluminum water pipes for under the dash to the heater as I modified where it sits, it is closer to the center of the car and higher. I also wanted the a/c lines to run along the outside of the inner wheelhouse and also not have the water heater valve inside the engine but bay and have a straighter run for those water lines. I made an attempt at making beads on the aluminum pipes that came with the a/c, not bad but were a bit scruffy. I bought the Jegs tubing bead roller as it said 5/8" pipe and up. When it arrived the pipe would not fit over the lower roller, ahh. I looked at the description again on Jegs website as it definitely said 5/8" pipe and up. I then saw it said 5/8" and up "inside diameter". Dah, did not notice that, I experimented with the roller and it makes nice beads on larger pipes. I found by using grease on the rollers and pipes, I could gradually squash the end of the pipe in the roller which made the inside diameter larger. Working back and forth on the pipe I was able the get the pipe over the lower roller which forms the bead. I was able to make a nice bead but you could not roll it much as you would not then be able the get the pipe off the lower roller. I then used a small peen hammer over a small round headed bolt to taper the end of the pipe into a nice curve. Not as nice as the beads produced on larger pipes but a good result with no sharp edges and a lot better than my pre-bead roller attempts. I could then finish up the pipes, fit the a/c o'rings and put the heater in place.
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Worked on running the brake lines and fitting the hoses. I used Cunifer copper-nickel brake lines which are DOT approved and is great to work with and stainless fittings. The mounting studs are stainless threads with stainless clips and nuts.
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Where I ran the brake line through the seat brace area, I drilled an extra hole which is the same size as hole for getting to the seat mounting nuts. I then used a clip on the brake line under the hole so it was properly supported. I used grommets everywhere the brake line passed through sections.
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Just below the brake line that runs to the other side with the "oval" type bead, is a section I made. This normally has the hole through it where the rear shocks mount, but not used now with this cars suspension. It also gave me a bit more room for the exhaust.
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I also worked on the master cylinder / servo. I had welded a bolt in place on the pedal support for the brace bar that goes to the dash on convertibles. It seemed it would easier than trying to get a bolt in there later. I did not like the way the bolts are exposed that mount the servo to the extension brackets and brackets to the bulkhead. I turned the around and by using 12 point bolts and nuts, though fiddly it hid this area a bit.
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Really nice work. I am intrigued by your electronics. Would love to hear more on that and how you figured out your path. For instance why did the Painless harness not meet your needs (Not enough circuits or something else?)
Your painting skills look fantastic in your pics.
I like everything you’re doing.
‘Congrats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Really nice work. I am intrigued by your electronics. Would love to hear more on that and how you figured out your path. For instance why did the Painless harness not meet your needs (Not enough circuits or something else?)
Your painting skills look fantastic in your pics.
I like everything you’re doing.
‘Congrats.
Thank you, I appreciate your kind words.
I wanted from the beginning to keep the car looking basically stock. No large arches, spoilers etc and I want this car to be an everyday driver As the car progressed I made a decision to do all the work myself, except powder coating of everything that can be and getting the chassis alignment checked and use as many parts as possible that were usable when I purchased the car. The car came with white pony door panels and wooden steering wheel so I kept with the pony scheme. I had used a couple of small pieces from Dakota Digital so I purchased their dash, some BIM's to monitor oil temp and their cruise control. I had the MSD Atomic on another car which worked very well and by using it on this car, it gave me an excuse to upgrade my other car. This Mustang came with an Edelbrock 800cfm carb which is possibly overkill. The Mustang also came with a new roof and a glass folding rear window which I thought would be cool to add a heated rear window element to. Things snow-balled from there. Push to start ignition, changeable color of interior lamps, remote locks etc etc, the Painless harness that came with the car would need to be added to quite a bit and I thought it would be of more use to someone who wanted to keep their basically stock.
I had never sprayed base coat / clear coat before, I lasted sprayed a car maybe 30 years ago, a lot has changed since then. It also gave me a great excuse to buy an Eastwood scroll compressor, very nice, plus some other tools. I really do prefer to do all the work myself rather than try to find someone who will complete it the way I would like. Maybe not the cheapest way but I get to keep some nice tools.
 

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I agree with you on doing as much as you can yourself. Nobody will take the care you will. And if you have a problem you know how to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 · (Edited)
I mounted the pedal assembly, servo and master cylinder and made up the lines going to the proportioning valve. Unbolted it again to bench bleed.
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To bleed the brakes I needed to get the handbrake working as the rear calipers are self adjusted by that mechanism.
I decided to try and keep the brake lever and cables away from the center and I had some cables made up to suit. Seems to work well, not sure how well it holds the car, I will have to wait until the car is rolling, it does lock the wheels. I have designed it so I can change the pivots at a later point if needed. I will replace the pivot bolts with clevis pins and a circlip on the cable exiting the seat brace cable outer, at one point. The lever underneath is actually the original handbrake lever that I modified, it pivots on a piece of high tensile rod that I welded to the subframe and floor. A return spring is in the plan as well for the brake handle to return back hence the little holes near the lever pivot.
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The cable as it passes through the seat brace assembly, has an outer sleeve on it that only goes part way to the other side of the seat brace. This is so I can adjust the cable length from the pull handle.
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The bracket has a slot in it so I can insert the cable. I need to use the plate so cable can pass through the seat brace area.
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The cable to the right hand side passes over the drive shaft and torque arm. It also be clamped by the exhaust mounting studs.
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Nuts welded to inner arch to hold cables as it threads to brake calipers.
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I need to fasten the handbrake warning switch better. The complete handbrake assembly has also been powder coated.
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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Fitted steering column, this is an Ididit Mustang tilt column. I fitted the cruise control switch to the tilt lever which took a bit of modifying. I also did not like the wiring coming out of the hole in the bottom of the steering column like a stock Mustang I believe. I contacted Ididit and they said no problem, so I drilled a hole at the top of the column and the wires exit there so they are not so visible. I also found the ring the horn contacts was not in the correct place and would cause the horn to sound continuously. I contacted Ididit, checked a column they had and confirmed it was incorrect and made a new one up for me.
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The PO had already cut the double D shaft but I believe it is still too long but I will wait until the seats etc are all in place before I cut it.
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I also fitted the trunk lid. I had run wires on the inside of trunk lid and secured them with clips and screws along the outside edge and is mostly concealed by the trunk weatherstrip, for the trunk solenoid. I also modified the lid to fit adjustable bumpers so I can get the link to fit square.
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The wires exit the trunk through the hinge which I modified to make sort of billet, which the wire runs through.
The wires need a bit of tidying up.
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The car came with the wrong trunk lid torsion springs so it was a choice whether to buy the correct ones or use struts. I made up brackets / different mounting locations so when the trunk was unlocked, it slowly rises to open.
I thought I was on a roll so I decided to stick the trunk weatherstrip inplace, not good, I cannot close the lid now and lid sits too high. I thought this was the good weatherstrip, Daniel Carter Made in USA. I will leave the trunk closed as tight as possible and see it compresses over time.
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The biggest accomplishment today was fitting the engine and gearbox. I thought I would try to fit them without dropping or lowering the gearbox crossmember that is part of the rear torque arm suspension / subframe. I could not remember if I had ever removed the engine / gearbox in 1 piece. It worked, took it slow but there was a fair amount of room to achieve this. I am waiting for some washers and nuts to arrive, I am using almost exclusively zinc/al coated hardware or stainless steel, I hate bolts I used on other projects, zinc coated etc just rust and seize within a few years.
I have a new AOD sump to go in with new bolts. The gearbox mount is one I made up The 2 vertical bolts going into the gearbox, which were metric and had been stripped possibly by someone using the wrong bolts, I re-tapped to use imperial thread. The mount is also fixed to the gearbox by 3 horizontal bolts that are not shown but are below the speedo sender hole.
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On the intake manifold, I drilled and tapped a thread so I can fit a 2nd water sender for MSD Atomic efi,
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I moved the holes to where the heater water pipes go in the bulkhead, so they lined up nicer to where they come from the engine.
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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Installed the radiator. The PO had purchased the radiator and then decided to purchase the March serpentine pulley system. This system puts the water pump inlet on the drivers side, the radiator had the lower hose on the passenger side. I decided to cut the radiator lower fitting out and reweld it to the other side, it certainly saved routing the hose under the engine pulley like the PO had done, it did not look pretty. I also made up a shroud for the fan to mount to, the overflow tank mounts to the side. I had welded extra material on the body where the radiator mounts up to. I used rubber edging strip to seal it up close. The ubolts are all powder coated also.
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The car initially had a blue fan but that did go with the color scheme planned.
I lucked out on finding some nice radiator hoses that fitted with a little bit of trimming.
Top- Gates 21736, bottom Gates 20609.
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Fitted a new AOD sump, connected up the shifter and the gear indicator sensor.
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Fitted the SOT aluminum drive shaft.
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I dont seem to have achieved much on the car, it seems 2 steps forward and 1 step back. I found the SD electric truck lock has jammed so that lasted about 2 weeks. I fitted the Lokar throttle bracket but after struggling for a while to get it to line up correctly, I used a billet style throttle bracket which worked a lot smoother.
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Continuing the theme, I fitted the Lokar engine and transmission dipsticks. Neither fitted using the supplied brackets so I made a couple up. I trial fitted the exhaust headers so I could check wiring around the gearbox area. The car came with Hedman hedders but they hung very low and hit the gearbox. I bought some nice coated Doug's hedders and they fit very well. I had welded o2 bungs in both sides as I did not know which would work best, just as well. I had hoped to mount the o2 on the drivers side but it was too busy and passenger side worked best.
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I put an engine oil temp sensor in the sump which is connected via a BIM to the Dakota Digital gauge set I am using.
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I ran the transmission cooler lines. I fitted an adapter so I could fit an oil temp sensor in the lines. They run on the outside of the engine bay.
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I fitted the ac condenser on the brackets I had made. I decided to add a transmission cooler in addition to the cooler built into the radiator as the transmission has a Transgo shift kit, higher stall speed torque converter, HD clutches & band. It is mounted to bracket that I made to look like the original vertical bracket. The plate on top holds the hood latch I modified to fit. It is cable released and is similar to the style used on VW's.
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Need to finish up making / fitting the final clips and run the wiring to the ac trinary switch and the ignition coil which lives below the ac compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Continued the theme of not finishing much. I trial fitted the front panels to make sure the ac and transmission cooler lines all fitted ok. Ordered up the Lokar fill adapter so I can add the transmission oil.
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I decided to look at an alternative for the trunk latch. I wanted an electric release, I had already ran the wires, a relay and made a special bracket for the SD switch / lever. I decided to try a Lincoln trunk latch which has an electric solenoid built in with key slot in the middle, not too large and hopefully more robust. Ordered one from ebay and found the solenoid would not work reliably all the time, I did not worry at the time and continued. I had to cut off the top of the Lincoln latch to get it to fit on the trunk. That was when I found a resistor was soldered inside by the manufacturer and it was faulty. I eliminated the resistor and the solenoid worked great but it does consume ~12A, just as well I am using a relay. I found I was able to use the trunks original mounting holes, I had to drill a new hole in the latch and make up some wedges to mount the latch so the key slot was at a better angle. I had to make up some angled spacers so the bolts were straight.
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I also had to make up a new rod that goes from the trunk key tumbler to turn the slot in the new latch. I used a long bolt which I filed down and made a slot in the end.
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The ebay seller also sent me the catch which I cut up, made shorter and welded the rods to a plate I made up.
The end result is key works great releasing the latch and when the electric part it pops open with a firm click and the lid slowly rises. Something the SD latch never did positively. The new latch has a trunk open switch but I doubt if I will wire that up
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The other disappointment is after fitting the weatherstrip on the trunk it does not close properly. I used the Daniel Carpenter US made weatherstrip which others have said works well. I also ordered up the Steele Rubber trunk weatherstrip and that seems just the same construction and maybe even compresses less. In an attempt to compress the rubber I resorted to clamps and bungy straps. A bit extreme.
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It seems to pull the trunk closer, hopefully it will stay compressed.
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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Still having grief with the trunk weatherstrip. Purchased a USA made Daniel Carpenter which was thinner and smaller than the USA made DC weatherstrip that came with the car. Still trying to compress the new seal.
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I ran the fuel and return lines, Earl's vapor guard with stainless clips I modified or made as necessary.
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I made the exhaust from 2 1/4" mandrel bent stainless sections. I used that as an excuse to purchase a bandsaw and a TIG welder, more toys to play with. The header mounting flange is also stainless as is flex pieces and v-band clamps.
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It is a tight fit with the TCI brace but it all came out well.
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I used Dynomax turbo mufflers which I also welded the v-bands to.
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I read that some people had experienced droning with just a single muffler so also fitted a resonator at the rear on each pipe. The tip is also a small resonator.
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I had modified the rear lower panel for the exhaust tip to exit at the bottom.
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I also fitted the center pod which houses the ac vents. I wanted somewhere to mount the heated seat switches and I was not sure what I wanted to do about a center consol if I use one at all. I gently heated the plastic and molded the pod so the switches would have room. I painted this when I spray the dash. I also bought some oblong single pods to go on each side which I sprayed also with the supplied round pods. Not sure what ones I will use there.
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The MSD 6A mounts on a bracket and sits under the glove box.
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Still having grief with the trunk weatherstrip. Purchased a USA made Daniel Carpenter which was thinner and smaller than the USA made DC weatherstrip that came with the car. Still trying to compress the new seal.
View attachment 790803

I ran the fuel and return lines, Earl's vapor guard with stainless clips I modified or made as necessary.
View attachment 790804

I made the exhaust from 2 1/4" mandrel bent stainless sections. I used that as an excuse to purchase a bandsaw and a TIG welder, more toys to play with. The header mounting flange is also stainless as is flex pieces and v-band clamps.
View attachment 790807

It is a tight fit with the TCI brace but it all came out well.
View attachment 790808

I used Dynomax turbo mufflers which I also welded the v-bands to.
View attachment 790809

I read that some people had experienced droning with just a single muffler so also fitted a resonator at the rear on each pipe. The tip is also a small resonator.
View attachment 790812

I had modified the rear lower panel for the exhaust tip to exit at the bottom.
View attachment 790813

I also fitted the center pod which houses the ac vents. I wanted somewhere to mount the heated seat switches and I was not sure what I wanted to do about a center consol if I use one at all. I gently heated the plastic and molded the pod so the switches would have room. I painted this when I spray the dash. I also bought some oblong single pods to go on each side which I sprayed also with the supplied round pods. Not sure what ones I will use there.
View attachment 790814

The MSD 6A mounts on a bracket and sits under the glove box.
View attachment 790815
Looks great! Where is that ac vent pod from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Looks great! Where is that ac vent pod from?
Thank you.
The pods are the supplied pods from the Vintage Air a/c system I am using. The intended pods that mount to the side are round and I was thinking the oblong pods might look better to match that double pod in the center. VA supply 2 separate oblong pods for if you have a center console. However I practiced molding for the seat switch on one of those pods before I attempted it on the double one but it did not go so well. So I bought another pair of single oblong pods and oblong vents. Not sure what will fit best with the handbrake pull and I also have a hood release pull to go somewhere.
 

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I made the exhaust from 2 1/4" mandrel bent stainless sections. I used that as an excuse to purchase a bandsaw and a TIG welder, more toys to play with. The header mounting flange is also stainless as is flex pieces and v-band clamps.
View attachment 790807









I also fitted the center pod which houses the ac vents. I wanted somewhere to mount the heated seat switches and I was not sure what I wanted to do about a center consol if I use one at all. I gently heated the plastic and molded the pod so the switches would have room. I painted this when I spray the dash. I also bought some oblong single pods to go on each side which I sprayed also with the supplied round pods. Not sure what ones I will use there.
View attachment 790814

Nice work!!

I have two questions.....

1) Why the flex sections after the headers? Are you concerned they will eventually split like most OEMs do?

2) I like the USB charger in place of the cig lighter, where did you find that one?

Thanks!!

Rusty
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Nice work!!

I have two questions.....

1) Why the flex sections after the headers? Are you concerned they will eventually split like most OEMs do?

2) I like the USB charger in place of the cig lighter, where did you find that one?

Thanks!!

Rusty
I am not sure but I am hoping the flexpipes will allow stuff to expand or contract and also minimize the movement back down the pipes. The exhaust is all rubber mounted but there is not much room between the exhaust, braces, over the axle, tail pipe exit, etc. If the flex pipes fail, it is just a small section up front with the H-pipe so not a great pain to remove.

The usb charger I bought on ebay and was shipped from China, they dont list them any more but I am sure you could find similar. "3.1A High speed 12V-24V Motorcycle car charger Dual USB car charger aluminium". I bought 3 of these ones as they have a sprung loaded cover and I have mounted the other 2 in the ashtrays that are either side in the back of the convertible where the rear heated seat switches mount also. I found a small badge that fits nicely in that flip lid, as the chargers will mount vertically I wanted some sort of cover. Supplied they had a small clock in the lid, in the picture is the lid I removed from the usb charger mounted in the dash.
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The picture does not show clearly, but the badge has a silver background, I think they are enameled and were lapel pin badges. I used the cover from the clock to make the top flush.
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