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Awesome work. I've hid some of my wiring running it down the outer wheel well but didn't think of doing the AC lines when I get to that point or moving the heater over to align with the hose routing. Thanks for posting the pics showing the AC lines and mounting to the compressor/ receiver drier, I was going to ask for those.

I'm also running a built AOD and added a temp sensor but just put it in the side of the pan. I also had Dan at Silverfox mod my valve body to add a OD lockout for going to the strip, adjustable shift points, Stage 1 shift and constant pressure mod so I don't have to worry about burning up the trans on the first test if the TV is out of whack. Can't wait to get to the first start this year. I think the AOD with 3:55:1 will make a nice long haul cruiser/ 1/4 mi./ autocross and open track car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Awesome work. I've hid some of my wiring running it down the outer wheel well but didn't think of doing the AC lines when I get to that point or moving the heater over to align with the hose routing.
I initially ran the lines out of the side panel, above where the plastic kick panel goes and mounted the dryer there also. I saw in a post, they mounted the dryer at front. I thought was a better idea and moved the bulkhead fittings from the passenger compartment also. I used Eaton easy clip fittings and hoses which are easy to assemble and the hoses are smaller diameter and easier to mount and follow shapes.

Your AOD sounds like it will be nice. The TV does concern me a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
I gave up for now getting a the trunk to close correctly with new weatherstrip. If the trunk still does not close how I like in the future, I may purchase another weatherstrip and trim it before glueing in place.

I installed the Spectra efi gas tank that I had powder coated and sealed inside. The tank bolts in from below though the tank is still installed from inside the trunk, I thought it looked better that way.
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I also fitted the filler tube and cap, plus the rear quarter wing extensions.
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I purchased a fuel roll over valve which had a hose fitting at the bottom. I cut an npt thread into it and installed it into an npt fitting that I welded into the fill tube at the top. The top of the roll over valve has an npt fitted which I connected to a 1/4 vapor hose.
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The hose runs to sintered bronze filter which exits outside of the trunk, behind the rh rear quarter extension piece.
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I will put a hose clamp on at that point so it does not get dislodged.
Onto to testing the car electrics..
 

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I used Eaton easy clip fittings and hoses which are easy to assemble and the hoses are smaller diameter and easier to mount and follow shapes.
Where did you source the Eaton hoses and clips? I see Jeg's has the clips but do not specify Eaton brand on hoses, etc. I'm bookmarking sites for when I get to AC install next year hopefully. Being able to cut hoses to custom length and install myself will look so much cleaner than off the shelf made hoses.
Edit: What size hose is it #6, #8?
Thanks, Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
After a couple of months working on other stuff, fixing lawn mower head gasket, mulching garden, stump grinding after a no show from 1 company and major alterations after buying an awesome tire machine and balancer from a friend. He bought a repair shop and left the main dealership he was working at. The previous owner had really run the business down and COVID did not help. In the end he decided to sell up to stop the bleeding. He had many nice tools and a Snapon / John Bean tire machine and balancer that he tried to advertise and sell but no-one was interested. I really liked it, but would never of bought it if it did not come from him. The tire machine weighed 1,800 lbs, it had a tire lifter, clamped via the center hole, not the fingers that grip the back side of the rim and is automatic, no irons or levers needed. The tire balancer also scanned the wheel and tire with lasers and showed the inside of the tire in 3D, very nice. I had to run some 250v outlets to the machines, move the stairs that go to my attic and I installed heavy duty casters on both machines and they fit quite nicely. There was a couple of issues, leaking airline, damaged wiring and a bad button battery in the balancer cpu. Not sure how many times I will use them, you can never have too many tools or can you?

Automotive tire Automotive design Gas Engineering Motor vehicle


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Now I am back working on the Mustang...
All the electrics worked great, that was all finished back in April.
I removed the intake manifold and filled the engine with oil and primed it with a pump driver shaft. However I forgot to put an oil filter on, what a mess. Checked oil was getting to all followers and the tops of the pushrods / rockers, I also had a good oil pressure reading on the gauge. Fitted the intake manifold, not using the cork gaskets at the end like the previous builder had done, a no no with the Perfomer RPM. Ran the water pipes to the water fed oil cooler and called it a day.
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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
I have been slowly plodding away at working on the car. I vacuum bleed and filled the radiator, worked really well, no leaks. Polished the valve covers and fitted. Checked the timing pointer for TDC and locked out the MSD distributor ready for EFI. Fitted MSD Atomic throttle body and added fuel to gas tank, checked fuel tank readings on gauge as I added fuel, worked well. Powered up fuel pump and checked for leaks and pressure, no leaks but fuel pressure was only 33psi. The fuel regulator, MSD Atomic I had used on a car previously and was set at 58psi, I was hoping something was not wrong with the pump in the tank. I had fitted a Bosch fuel pump in my Spectra EFI tank and fitted a Holley Hydramat fuel pickup filter. I wound the adjustment screw all the way in on the regulator which closes down the fuel return and the pressure started to climb but still low. Switching the pump off then on and adjusting the regulator some more and the pressure then started to climb. Finally I got the pressure to the required 47psi with the regulator adjustor screw not far from its initial position. Not sure what was wrong initially, maybe it needed bleeding.
Fitted the spark plug wires, pleased with how they worked out.
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I then started the engine for the first and it ran well. Sweeet.. Good oil pressure etc but I needed to add more transmission fluid as only 9 quarts are in the AOD at present. Started, set timing and added more fluid but it used all the 12 quarts I had and was still a little low. Have to get some more fluid.
I was pleased and impressed how the push start and the engine started. I had expected that I needed to perform a multi-step operation to start the engine because of the MSD Atomic efi powering up - fuel pressure etc. For example, go to run and then after a few seconds go to start but no. I just have to put my foot on the brake, push the Start button and the engine just starts, very nice.
I did not fit the power steering pump as I wanted to ensure the engine worked first. I ordered some fittings for the ps lines but the wrong ones were sent, so I continued with something else.
I have a couple of modules for my Dakota Digital gauges so I can monitor engine and trans oil temp, I set those up.
I ordered some EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads for the front and rear brakes and I fitted those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I started work on putting the convertible roof back together. I had dismantled everything and I mean everything.

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This is one of the linkages on the side of the roof frame. I letter stamped each part so I knew which parts belong together and drilled out the rivets to get to the bushes which I was sure would not survive the heat from powder coating the entire roof. I had experimented with spare brackets as to how I was going to re-assemble the parts when they came back from powder coating. Using a MIG welder with the bracket mounted in a vice above a container with cold water. The holes were countersunk, cleaned, welded quickly and then I opened the vice jaws which dropped the assembly into the water, it worked well and no bushings were harmed. It just left painting the welded parts.

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I have attached the front and rear tack strips and partially assembled the frame into the car.

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
I bought new roof rams and pump. I went through bleeding the fluid inside the car but it seemed a pain getting all the air out, I bled everything on the bench where it was easier to get gravity do its work.
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Finished up assembling the roof in the car, I used the arms on the 2 post lift to help make putting the bows in place. I have read up and watched some videos on installing the roof. That should be fun, not.
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Finally got the correct fittings to finished up the power steering system, 3 time lucky. I mounted a small cooler on the the front crossmember and a filter on the return.
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I made up a bracket which mounts the tank right above the pump. It worked out nice.
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I thought this was quite useful. It is one of the diagnostic screens, in real time that you can get on your phone via the Dakota Digital app. I used it to verify gas tank levels and I had the wiring connected to the correct senders / wiring for the engine and trans temps.
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I mounted the doors. I had put new bushes and pins in the hinges and mounted them using chrome plated grade 5 bolts. I used an engine hoist which worked really well as I was getting the bolts in place.
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I used an Eastwood kit which had 4 magnetic pins and a drill. I had drilled 2 holes in each of the hinges mounting points while they were still bolted on when I worked on aligning the panels, gap fitting etc. I have done the same for the trunk and hood hinges. So first time refitting both doors and they fitted really well, just needed a small drop on the top hinge, nice.
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Fitted both external handles and worked on the lock on the drivers side but it is giving me some grief with a rod that is too short so I have to make up a new one. Central locking solenoid mounted.
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One of the things I like about your build is how clean the engine compartment is. What did you use to mount your Vintage Air evaporator and to run your heater hoses/electrical in the wheel wells that does not show up on the inside of the engine compartment?
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
Thank you, dreamspace1, I wanted to have nothing mounted on the inner fenders.
I used the original brackets for the evaporator, obviously powder coated, the front one I think is unchanged, the other 2 I had to modify to allow the water hoses to double back to an AN bulkhead fitting. The heater servo is also mounted there as I did not want it in the engine compartment.
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The evaporator is also mounted higher and closer to the center in the car so as to not see it so easily or get in the way of the passenger feet. The top bolt screws into a rivnut that goes into the cowl area. The other brackets are bolted to stainless studs that are welded to firewall and ground smooth.

The heater hoses originally came out directly behind the rh rocker cover, not pretty.
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It did not seem worthwhile or effective to hide or run the heater hoses out the front and around. I welded up the old heater hose holes and used an AN bulkhead fitting so the 2 hoses still run to bulkhead but with a straight shot.

The bulkhead fittings shown are for ac, I swapped those over.
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The wiring for the engine comes through an aluminum bulkhead fitting. It matched the Lokar throttle pedal mounting bracket that you see inside the engine bay. The trouble is the decorative slots ran horizontal on the Lokar and the bulkhead fittings the slots ran vertical. I had to drill and rethread the bulkhead mount so they matched. Small screws and threads..
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The other 2nd bulkhead fitting fits over a battery bulkhead connector which feeds the alternator.
The wiring for the ignition coil runs along the passenger wheel well area and comes out next to the a/c hoses as the coil is mounted under the a/c compressor.
Wiring for the lights, horn, washers, fan, etc is run along the drivers side wheel well area. They are mounted to stainless studs or bolts that are welded on and ground smooth. You should be able to see them below.
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Thanks for the detailed response. I am going for a clean/smooth engine bay as well - at least as much as possible with the giant coyote and all of its associated harnesses. Sounds like the stainless studs are the answer to quite a few of my challenges - I will start trying to source some tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
I worked on bolting parts on the doors but it is slow going and I realized I still dont have enough or the correct bolts, oh well another order in. I am using the door wiring grommet / sleeve from a Foxbody Mustang, works really well. I had looked at aftermarket ones but they seemed to small or too short. I have wires for electric windows, window switch, door speaker, heated rear view mirror and Pony door mounted light.
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I bought an interior lamp module with 4 separate "lamps". They have an ambient light option and also a low setting when lights are on. It has an large number of different colors available. I mounted one "lamp" in the Pony door light and sealed all the wires up.
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I ordered a windshield.
I also ordered some items from NPD mainly parts for installing the convertible roof, very helpful.
The roof I have is a Robbins with a glass rear window. I do not understand why Robbins supply a strip of roof material and the foam that is supposed to be sewn inside. This would make up the wndlace / weatherstrip at the very front of the roof. Why is it not supplied sewn together like say E-Z On tops?
I dont see how I will be able to sew that with a regular sewing machine. Any ideas?
My plan is for me and only me to work on this car, some help from my wife..
This is not helping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
I did not like the screws holding the cover on the Pony door lamps, they were too long which meant I needed to grind them shorter and as they were plated steel they may rust, that would not do. They were also metric and the heads looked too big for the countersunk recess. I drilled tapped and used 10-32 countersunk, cup stainless screws, much nicer. Tested interior lamps & c/l, all ok.
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Fitted both door weatherstrips. I dont like working with the 3M black weatherstrip adhesive, it seems quite messy and sticks to my hands easier that where I want it to go.
The windshield also arrived today all nicely boxed, fitted. I will leave applying the windshield sealant until I have polished the trim. Received a buffing kit and will give that a go.
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Fitted both door weatherstrips. I dont like working with the 3M black weatherstrip adhesive, it seems quite messy and sticks to my hands easier that where I want it to go.
I really admire the workmanship on this build!

I worked at the Ford Louisville Assembly Plant back in 79-80 as utility on the F150 line. Utility meant I filled in for absentees, I had to be able to walk on to any job on the line and with minimal training, learn it and do it for the day or so. VERY challenging at times. I prided myself that there were 28 different positions on the line that I had learned and could do at a moments notice. They learned though that any job involving adhesive did not fit real well in my skillset. Kept the cleanup guys too busy trying to get adhesive from paint and plastic and I would be sticky all over. Went through gloves like crazy. Kinda hurt my pride but I just couldn't keep it where it was supposed to go, especially under the time pressure of the assembly line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Thank you.
Kinda hurt my pride but I just couldn't keep it where it was supposed to go, especially under the time pressure of the assembly line.
I can relate to that. I just put some felt on the front window rear guide, that has nice self adhesive. It would be nice on the weatherstrip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #118 ·
I fitted the lh & rh rear quarter windows. I bought a pair of electric motors for the front windows and I wanted electric for the rear ones also. My son had his Focus SVT wrecked for him and the rear windows had an identical / similar bow to them. So I modified the mounts of the mechanism and it fits after a bit of work. I cant do the final alignment until the top is aligned but it felt good getting more parts on the car.
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I also fitted the lh fender, not aligned but fits nice at first stab.
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I had made some brackets so the electric antenna tip would sit flush with the top of the fender, it worked out well.
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The clips were all powder coated also.
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RH fender roughly mounted, antenna works well.
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Had to move the ac lines around a bit at the front but I was half expecting this. I had not fitted the proper receiver / dryer because of this, still need to vac and fill.
It is really nice emptying boxes / crates and moving parts out of the house and seeing the car coming together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
I had stored my hood on a bike hoist mounted to the garage ceiling sideways and was now above some pretty heavy equipment. Was not looking forward to getting it down, it was easier than I thought. The hood is on the car with help from my wife. I installed an allen key bolt in the front bolt hole in each side of the hood where the hinge bolts to. The allen bolt head passes through the mounting hole in the hinge. So when lowering the hood into place, the allen bolts slot into the hinge helping to hold the hood. I used a 3rd hand support tool like this https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Supp...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584070138139073&psc=1 to hold the front of the hood up. I was then able to insert the 2 rear hinge / hood bolts, remove the allen bolts and put real bolts in place. Using those Eastwood panel locating pins the hood lined up pretty good for first hit. I will work on the final panel alignment when the front end is all attached.
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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
I had a pair of window runners / frames for the doors for which I bought new glass. I thought the coupe and convertible had the same door glass, my bad. I ordered 2 complete window runners with glass but 1 came damaged. A new one went out that day, I fitted the LH door glass. I fitted a new a/c dryer / filter with trinary switch and rented a vac pump from O'Riellys. It was a new unit with a sealed bottle of oil, worked well. I did have a leak at the beginning which was a bit of debris in my hose which caused it not to seal on the a/c fitting.
I fitted the stone guard, bumper brackets, lower valance, headlamp mounts and caps. It took quite a bit of prior work, welding etc to get everything to fit correctly.
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I went to fit the front marker lights and found the self tapping screws included were not stainless, that will not do. I drilled and tapped the lens mounting holes for 10-32 stainless screws. The mounting studs were also not stainless and were not tapped very deep into the housing, fixed that, sprayed and then mounted with stainless studs and nuts.
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I then made a mount for a front camera, but when I came to test it, the view was not good, back to the drawing board.
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I did not want to use the stock running horse and corral and I did not want to have a GT350 badge. I found a running horse emblem which was a stick on. I made some holes from the back side and used stainless wire to mount to a backing plate. I wired this to the grill and used weatherseal adhesive as an extra step.
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I bolted on the hood catch, slam panel, hood release cable and grill.
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Fitted the front bumper and the grill surround.
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I also ordered up some more stainless bolts etc and wanted to match the stainless fender mounting bolts on the slam panel which mounts to the grill. A little bit of polishing on the bolts and washers and it worked well.
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