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Discussion Starter #21
Side note I got an ignition switch and tried starting the old 6. Wont stay on. Sounds like it’s not keeping the fuel running through it. Maybe the pump or the carb. I would add a video but it doesn’t seem to let me. Not all that exciting. Just a shot of the windshield while trying.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Every time I decide to inspect some more. I find that there will probably be more dollar signs out the door to replace/repair stuff.

Not sure what these areas are called but it is where the inner fender/strut towers attach to the floor pan/firewall. Pass side looks pretty gone. But driver side doesn’t appear all that bad. First pic is pass side. Second is driver.

That pretty typical for these cars?

On the positive side I got the center console, shifter and clutch linkage out.
 

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Time for the Arning drop! 1/2" drill bit and template. This inexpensive mod is the best thing I did to my 65 along with a new alignment. -1 degree camber, 3 degrees castor ...........check out Opentracker or Street or Track website for modern alignment specs. Will be following your project. Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Well. I thought I was fairly set about using a all new 9” off of eBay or going the 8” route. But I decided to go the explorer route. Just over $100.
Looked at the door and I saw a D4 code which I believe is a 3.73 LS.

There are still courteous people out there as well. There would have been no way that I could have lifted that thing in the back of my truck by myself. Bad thing about lifted trucks.

I have some guys that narrowed a GM 10 bolt for me a while back. They were a little expensive but they are good folks. They also had to pull it off the truck at the time so may have been why it was so much.

I also had to buy me a cordless impact so I could work in the junkyard without killing myself. So handy out there.
 

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Every time I decide to inspect some more. I find that there will probably be more dollar signs out the door to replace/repair stuff.

Not sure what these areas are called but it is where the inner fender/strut towers attach to the floor pan/firewall. Pass side looks pretty gone. But driver side doesn’t appear all that bad. First pic is pass side. Second is driver.

That pretty typical for these cars?

On the positive side I got the center console, shifter and clutch linkage out.
Time to clean all that old under coating off and investigate

Got some brown truck presents today. However, coil springs and motor mounts were not in the packages. We will see if they are going to ship them at a later date.
looks like fun about to happen
Time for the Arning drop! 1/2" drill bit and template. This inexpensive mod is the best thing I did to my 65 along with a new alignment. -1 degree camber, 3 degrees castor ...........check out Opentracker or Street or Track website for modern alignment specs. Will be following your project. Bill
:thumbsup:
Got one of the fenders off. Took a few hours. The back bolt under the car got sized to the nutplate. Finally took the air chisel to it and it fell out. Are these things pressed in from the factory?
yes that nut is pressed/welded to the rocker I need new ones as well someone torched mine before I got it https://www.cjponyparts.com/fender-to-rocker-panel-bolt-nut-1965-1970/p/HW220/?year=1966&gclid=CjwKCAjwv6blBRBzEiwAihbM-TTEyKoAPs3MB8WXaLYHl01zpcyabd-UJm35-2RcWPdQineKqFh9-xoCBRwQAvD_BwE
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks for the link 2nd 66. I wonder if those nuts will function the same if minted inverted from the outside of the rocker, or if they will protrude too much.

I have been thinking about how to approach this in the most efficient way. I was going to go ahead and swap out all the suspension now but with the rearend still needing to be narrowed, and still needing from brakes as well as all new steering I may wait to pull the 6 cylinder suspension.

I might just pull engine and trans and mock up the new stuff to make sure everything is good, get headers and all that jazz lined out. Then pull all interior and the rest of the car apart except suspension and send it to be blasted.

Once I get it back I will do a final test of everything and have all the new parts ready to go. Might save me a bit on the initial pocketbook spending by a few months.

Also motor mounts are still a few weeks out. They are currently manufacturing them.

Anyone want this straight 6 and 3 speed? I don’t really have the space to keep it lying around. Would put it up for sale but I don’t have the post count yet and I doubt I should charge anyone for this thing. In the OKC area.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Been making slow progress.
Got the engine and trans pulled out of this thing. Engine was completely gone. Pushed water. Oil looked like chocolate syrup. Although the coolant was clean. Kind of strange.

Also got all of the removable glass out. Complete pain in the ace.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Tons of rust. Looks like the typical floor pan areas. Rear seat area as well, where the trunk meets it. I am debating getting one of those harbor freight special blasters and doing the blasting myself. Thoughts?

My body guy said it is going to be a year before he can get to it. Not that it matters yet as I have to get the whole car mocked up with all the new stuff first. Might try to do some of the replacement of the under car area panels on my own to help with his workload.

Also what do y’all think is salvageable and what should I just scrap? As I said, my first oldie so not real familiar territory even though I know an ok amount on this mess.
 

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+1 on taking stuff back to clean bare metal, but bolt or weld in jigs to brace the body before cutting loose any large pieces so the car doesn't flex. Be sure to prime and paint things on the inside, like frame rails, rockers and torque boxes before closing them up with other metal or seam sealer. Weld-thru primer is a new thing to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Cool deal. Will do that then. Went and got a cheap blaster and some soda to try it out. Seems to work ok. Just tried it out. Had to order a respirator and what not cause that stuff is ridiculous. Once all cleaned will have to start working on some sheet metal welding skills.
 
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