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hey, my 66 coupe w/c-4 has an e-brake set up but doesnt work and i dunno why (never worked, i owned for 4 years now). under the car i see the bracket that seems to pull a wire connected to the rear drums, but it prolly doesnt pull hard enough or far enough. any ideas? i want to put a t-5 in and figured i need the e-brake to work :p I am also prolly gonna make my brakes power. i currently have 2.5" exhaust running off of my long tube headers with power steering with lowering bracket and auto c-4. will a t-5 swap with cable clutch create a problem for the headers/exhaust, power steering or e-brake? Thanks
 

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On the e-brake bracket, there should be a double nut. Pull the handle out about 5 clicks and put the rear up on jack stands. Loosen the outer nut (it's just used to "lock" the other). Tighten the nut against the bracket until the brakes drag. Tighten the "locking nut" back onto the other.

Pull the handle a couple more clicks and see if the wheels are locked ... it's just that simple (usually ;))
 
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Thats good to know. I'm going to be under my car tomorrow too. I'll see if i can get my e-brake to function properly as well. Currently, mine won't hold the car if a 3 year old bumps it with his big wheel.
 

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E-brake failures can also be caused by the handle/ratchet not working correctly. Removal is relatively simple. You'd be surprized how much better it works after cleaning, reassembly and lubrication. It also helps to grind down the pawl so its catching edge is square and true, like the tip of common screwdriver. Square, it latches much better and holds tension on the handle.

When converting to T5, the crossmember has flange for the emergency brake lever. Basically it works the same as factory set up.
 

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This may or not be applicable to your 66. But, my 67 with long tube hedman header, t5 conversion, mustang steve cable kit, melted 2 power steering hose before I fixed it myself. The mechanic did it 'doofus' like twice. I used header wrap with 2 stainless hose clamp on the offended header tube and put a heat sleeve on the p steering hose and put it all back together. No problems now. When installing the clutch cable i put a holder bracket on the cable to hold away from the headers and sneaks right between the one that is wrapped and the one that isn't. ( i was amazed at the amount of smoke and fire one little hose could make!!! )
My clutch pedal is now extremely light and the rebuilt t5 shifts very smooth.
Good luck
Gordy
 
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