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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I'm working on my 66 fastback project which has the original power assist steering pump, control valve, and ram setup.
This system is tired and starting to develop some leaks that need attention.

My options are:
1. Rebuild the system
2. Move to manual steering
3. Install a "real" power steering box (Borgeson or others)
With the goal of keeping this car period correct, options 1 or 2 are most desirable.


My question to the forum members:

Does anyone have good experience with the stock power assist setup when it is fresh and setup properly especially in a period performance oriented car?
Looking for experience from someone with this setup in a in well sorted car (tight ball joints, idler arm, alignment with 3+ degrees of castor, good steering box)
How much slop does the control valve add?

I'm also looking at reducing the pump pressure with a Heidts PS-101 adjustable power steering valve to tune the feel.

Thanks for the help!
Matt
 

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My Emberglo 66 has Factory power steering and it is extremely easy to drive around even at slow speeds in a parking lot. I have manual 16 to 1 steering in my Tahoe Turquoise 66 and I like the feel of the road but it definitely requires more effort when navigating at low speeds with one hand. I just prefer well maintained original
 

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I have been through the entire system in my '66 Fastback and it works great. I would recommend taking the components you have and restore them. I couldn't ask for more from my system.
 

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I have a factory power steering setup on a A code 65 Fastback. We completely rebuilt the power steering (ram, control valve) and the steering effort required is very light even with larger 215 tires up front. I'm told that the factory power steering pumps put out way too much pressure so I like your idea of installing the Heidts pressure regulator if you would like to get a little more road feel. We swapped to a KRC power steering pump. If you would like to keep everything stock, I would recommend upgrading the suspension. We installed the negative wedge kit (Shelby 1" drop), new ball joints, 620 coils, monte carlo bar, single piece export brace, and added a 1" sway-bar. We even swapped out the front drums for stock Kelsey hays disc brakes. The car handles incredibly well and nimble even though everything looks period correct and stock. It feels like a complete different animal on the road. If done right, there should no slop in the steering.
 

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+1 - Another happily satisfied Chockostang customer - I sent my factory setup to Dan for a rebuild a few years ago and I can say that having a freshly rebuilt stock system is fantastic. And as a bonus, haven't experienced any leak issues to date.

Keep the factory set-up, send it to Dan for a complete rebuild. You'll be pleasantly surprised. My .02

John
 
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1966 Mustang GT 4sp Nightmist Blue
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I own a 1966 GT and just installed the Street or Track suspension minus the coil overs and used the roller idler from Opentracker, along with new inner and outer tie rods and just bought a rebuilt power steering control valve from Chock. While my steering box hasn't been rebuilt yet, the steering is great!! I have about a 1/2" or less of play in my steering wheel. Too Im running 225/45/17 in the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for everyone's posts. Glad to here this system can yield good results.

Sounds like a rebuild is in order!
 

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Definitely do the rebuild. I had original power steering in my car and I swapped it out for a Borgeson. It was a bit of a pain. Steering is fine now but if you can keep the original, I would.

Can't believe I'm typing this but when I took my original power steering off, I threw it away. Thought it was no good and no one would have any use for it. One of my many stupid moves before I found this forum and learned a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Since there is often a lack of follow up on forum posts, I figured I would circle back now that I have the rebuilt original power steering + steering box back in the car.
The verdict: Good!

The steering is now incredibly precise with essentially zero play in the wheel to get the car to respond. As one would expect, the wheel also feels tighter and smoother lock to lock. This was defiantly the way to go.

Unfortunately, the alignment shop near the shop that did the steering install would only do a factory Ford alignment... which is terrible. With the steering as tight as it is, the lack of castor is immediately apparent. There is zero self centering. I pull my hands off the wheel mid corner and the car will continue to hold the radius of the corner. It is a weird feeling having to "pull the car" back out of a turn.

With a proper alignment (adjustable strut rods will help here) I expect the steering to be very direct and predictable.
Also, no more leaks!
 
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