Vintage Mustang Forums banner

61 - 63 of 63 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
first of all,do you have the Ford published shop manual ? If not get one from NPD or Amazon, etc. The other manuals are not a substitute for the Ford manual. A Ford shop manual will answer many if not all of your questions, you won’t find a better authority anywhere !!!

the reluctors are accessed thru the top of the distributor. No need to remove the distributor from the car. They control how much mechanical advance you are getting. The point plate has to come of as well as a circlip on the top of the distributor shaft. The manual has photos showing everything. Get one before you do another thing to the car.
And no matter whether you have the Pertronix or points .

Z
I really appreciate all your advice and all the advice and help from the community.

I am a little embarrassed now to say that I have the ford shop manual and sometimes I struggle to interpret what it is saying. That is why I lean on this community. Maybe because I did not grow up working on these cars but I am trying to learn since I can't really find a good mechanic that knows these classic cars.

I guess what I struggle with the most is how do I know if it is running right.
What does a misfire sound like? What does it sound like if the valve lash is too loose? How do I know if the problem is with the carb or the ignition system? Basic questions that I guess just come with experience which I lack.

I rebuilt an engine and it runs so that is a major accomplishment, I would say, but now I want to make sure it runs as good as it can. Thanks again for all your help.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,118 Posts
no need for any embarrassment. The manual is merely the go-to starting place for information. The forum, as you have surmised, is very good at helping to both interpret the manual, and also to advise how to troubleshoot and identify specific issues.

Z
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
I took her out for another shakedown today and when I got back I was looking for vacuum leaks on one of your suggestions and noticed some wetness on the intake manifold gasket.

I checked the torque and they were surprisingly loose. I never thought that they would change that much with a few heat cycles so I tightened those up. I think I need to recheck all the bolts now. I saw no evidence of coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant so that is good.

I also checked the float levels in the carb and found that the primary float was higher than spec, about an 1 1/4 in. I lowered the float closer to spec.

It now idles a lot better. It also seems to accelerate better too. I am hoping it’s not running as rich now.

Maybe now I have to adjust the idle mixture screws or at least recheck them.

Thanks for all the great suggestions. I am getting closer!
 
61 - 63 of 63 Posts
Top