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I have a '66 inline 6, and have had turn signal, brake light, and horn issues. Just replaced the turn signal switch, which seems to have solved the turn signal and brake light problem, but not so lucky with the horn. I get a muffled horn sound when I ground the horn and contact the positive battery cable. Get the same muffled sound when I contact the two contacts on the turn signal switch with the steering wheel off. Then, with the steering wheel on, if I contact the top finger to either of the contacts at 5 or 7 o'clock, I get nothing. Same with the horn ring reattached to the wheel.

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
 

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Try adjusting the screws on the horns out and then Back in. You might need to remove and shoot wd40 in each of them. Also make sure their feed wires are ok and each is cleanly gounded to the radiator support. Check grounding first.
 

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Grounding the horns is very important, as I found out just yesterday.
Even running a lead directly to the neg terminal of the batt did not work.
Before tossing the horn, I decided to scape the horn attachment point down to bare metal. Blaaaaaat! Worked.

But regarding muffled sound, I would suspect something blocking the horn? Insects?
 

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I had similar issues with the horns on my '66. After ensuring that everything was good in the column and wiring harnesses, I focused on the horns themselves. I first placed a tack weld (shown as a red spot in the photo to ensure that the ground was good through the mounting bracket attachment to the horn body. That fixed any intermittent conductivity problems, but still had the "muffled" sound. By adjusting the phillips head screw on the backside, I found the sweet spot that restored the sound to "like-new" condition
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A little rust penetrant / remover (WD-40 isn't really for that but sometimes works) sprayed into the Phillips screw holes and into the horn, and then bumping the horn with a rubber mallet a few times, maybe while it is straight-wired will help. It sure did with some of my old cars !
As far as contact at the wheel, and at the horn, it is essential the horn receives 12 volts there, throughout the wiring path to the horn, and that it has a clean ground. The best, and perhaps the safest, method of ensuring that is by using the horn button only to activate a relay that receives a full 12 volts from the battery and takes that directly to the horn. That should really blow !!! :ROFLMAO:
 

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A little rust penetrant / remover (WD-40 isn't really for that but sometimes works) sprayed into the Phillips screw holes and into the horn, and then bumping the horn with a rubber mallet a few times, maybe while it is straight-wired will help. It sure did with some of my old cars !
As far as contact at the wheel, and at the horn, it is essential the horn receives 12 volts there, throughout the wiring path to the horn, and that it has a clean ground. The best, and perhaps the safest, method of ensuring that is by using the horn button only to activate a relay that receives a full 12 volts from the battery and takes that directly to the horn. That should really blow !!! :ROFLMAO:
Yah, I also did the horn relay conversion
 

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I have a '66 inline 6, and have had turn signal, brake light, and horn issues. Just replaced the turn signal switch, which seems to have solved the turn signal and brake light problem, but not so lucky with the horn. I get a muffled horn sound when I ground the horn and contact the positive battery cable. Get the same muffled sound when I contact the two contacts on the turn signal switch with the steering wheel off. Then, with the steering wheel on, if I contact the top finger to either of the contacts at 5 or 7 o'clock, I get nothing. Same with the horn ring reattached to the wheel.

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Horn relay

I think adding a relay to the horn circuit is a good safety move. Wire 460 (yellow wire) running up the steering column is always hot. I know of several incidents where that wire shorted out. The rubber sleeve where it goes into the column works its way out and it shorts out on the column.
I cut wire 460 and grounded it and used wire 482 to ground out the relay to energize the horns from a fused power line from a 12 volt buss. Horns are sure a lot louder. and the head lights are brighter too.
I realize there are a lot of folks that believe making these kinds of changes degrades the value of a classic vehicle. I added relays for my high and low beams, horn and pusher fan. Doing this takes a big load off of the marginal sized wiring harness and decreases the chance of a wiring fire and possible loss of a classic vehicle.

yarb
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Horn relay

I think adding a relay to the horn circuit is a good safety move. Wire 460 (yellow wire) running up the steering column is always hot. I know of several incidents where that wire shorted out. The rubber sleeve where it goes into the column works its way out and it shorts out on the column.
I cut wire 460 and grounded it and used wire 482 to ground out the relay to energize the horns from a fused power line from a 12 volt buss. Horns are sure a lot louder. and the head lights are brighter too.
I realize there are a lot of folks that believe making these kinds of changes degrades the value of a classic vehicle. I added relays for my high and low beams, horn and pusher fan. Doing this takes a big load off of the marginal sized wiring harness and decreases the chance of a wiring fire and possible loss of a classic vehicle.

yarb
Thanks for your reply. Follow up question if I go this route.: Where exactly did you cut and attach wire 460 (yellow), and 482 (blue/yellow stripe i think)?

I'm still trying to figure out where my power is being disrupted. I get 12 volts to my horn wires (at the horn) when the steering wheel is off and I connect the two contacts on the turn signal switch. Then, when I reattach the steering wheel, I get nothing when contacting the ground and contacts. Any idea why the turn signal switch power is not getting transferred to the steering wheel (and horn ring)?
Thanks.
 

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Thanks for your reply. Follow up question if I go this route.: Where exactly did you cut and attach wire 460 (yellow), and 482 (blue/yellow stripe i think)?

I'm still trying to figure out where my power is being disrupted. I get 12 volts to my horn wires (at the horn) when the steering wheel is off and I connect the two contacts on the turn signal switch. Then, when I reattach the steering wheel, I get nothing when contacting the ground and contacts. Any idea why the turn signal switch power is not getting transferred to the steering wheel (and horn ring)?
Thanks.
Thanks for your reply. Follow up question if I go this route.: Where exactly did you cut and attach wire 460 (yellow), and 482 (blue/yellow stripe i think)?

The yellow wire is hot all the time, be sure to pull the battery cable before you cut it. I cut it below the connector and and put a crimp connector on the hot lead so it won't ground out. I just grounded the yellow wire from the column to the closest place, If I remember right, I think I connected it to one of the bolts on the brake pedal support The blue wire is used to ground out the relay. I have a diagram but will have to look it up and post it for you later.
yarb
 

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I just went through a couple of horns from my car. I did not know if they worked before cleaning as the car has been off the road for 20+ years. The horns were pretty rusty on the outside.

I soaked both horns in Evaporust. The container said it was safe for electrical parts, but I had never used it in that manner. I took a chance and immersed both horns fully for several hours. I then fully rinsed with water (dunking and with a hose) and slowly spun the horns by hand (multiple times) to dump all the water from the inside the horns. I followed that by using a shop vac as a blower to blow air into the horns to ensure they were dry. I learned the shop vac blows warm air which was a plus.

Both horns were “free-er” when shaking them after the cleaning. I tested both after the procedure by connecting them directly to the battery, and they are loud and clear. I am putting mine on relays.

I can’t guarantee soaking them in rust remover is a safe approach, but so far I am happy with the results.
 

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I have a '66 inline 6, and have had turn signal, brake light, and horn issues. Just replaced the turn signal switch, which seems to have solved the turn signal and brake light problem, but not so lucky with the horn. I get a muffled horn sound when I ground the horn and contact the positive battery cable. Get the same muffled sound when I contact the two contacts on the turn signal switch with the steering wheel off. Then, with the steering wheel on, if I contact the top finger to either of the contacts at 5 or 7 o'clock, I get nothing. Same with the horn ring reattached to the wheel.

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
763677
Horn relay wiring.jpg
 
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