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Discussion Starter #1
The master cylinder on my 66 coupe is bypassing internally (I'm told). The pedal seems hard at first then fades to the floor after about 10 seconds. There is no visable leakage on the M/C or wheels and fluid level remains constant. Anyway my question is, how does the pedal attatch to the M/C (origional 4 drum, single M/C manual set up) will I have to do under dash work, or can it be accessed from the engine bay? Thanks.
 

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Under the dash you have only to remove a single clip and brake light switch and MC plunger will slip off the pedal attachment. Then remove the brake lines and the two bolts that hold the MC to the firewall.

But, you will have to bench bleed the new MC and then after it's installed you will have to bleed the lines. I'd suggest you either pay to have this done or get a buddy that knows how to do it to give you a hand.

Might be a good time to think about an upgrade to a dual MC and maybe even disc up front.

Good luck,
 

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You have to work under the dash to remove the clip and brakelight switch. remember where all the pieces go ;)
then under the hood, disconnect the brakelines, unbolt it and remove it, simple ::
unless you`re concerned about correctness, this would be a good time to upgrade to a dual reservoir MC.
 

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wow, deja vous all ofer again ::
 

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Like the others posted, now is a good time to upgrade to the dual M/C. When I brought mine in to Autozone for my dual, they refered to my single cylinder as a "suicide cylinder", ::. Really a straight forward job, I used a dual m/c from a drum/drum 67 mustang I think it was. Only hard part is finding the right adaptors to get all of the lines to fit right on the new cylinder, after that it was a piece of cake. ::
 

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Getting that switch, clip pushrod and pin to all work together again was a real PITA with the seat in place IMHO. Use the same pushrod for the new dual MC, the one that comes with the '74 Maverick MC is too long (what I used on my Disc/Drums).
 

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hmmm.. not sure if I did something wrong... but when I removed my MC this weekend I just

took off the 2 bolts that held it to the firewall
then screwed both back in about 3-4 turns
placed a wrench between the fire wall and the MC
then gave the break pedal a swift tug
and the rod popped out, still attached to the pedal.

I have done this in the past with other cars and just be sure to position the rod back in the MC when I re-install. Then press the pedal and the rod goes back in place.

Am I missing something here?

James
 

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That would be a very good way to do it, thanks for the tip! ::
 

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James, I'm with you. I did the same thing when I changed my 66 to a two cylinder (78 Granada) MC. Didn't mess with the rod at all.
 

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Cool idea, thanks. I still need to change the brake rod on the maverick mc to the mustang rod! With the new mc already installed, this should work great ::
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks to all, had difficulty with the second method, darn rod just would not pull out (M/C propped 1/2 inch from firewall, Anyway removing the clip and brake light switch was easy. Ended up hacksawing the old piston to get rod out,no problems. Anyway as I wrapped the job up I thought it prudent to check the brake lights, well......... the R/H brake light was not working, changed bulb, no joy. Hmmmm, got out handu exterior lighting schematic just to make sure that the brake switch on the pedal did not feed the right and left independantly, nope. Half an hour later with multimeter in hand and quite frustrated, I decided a few tunes were just the ticket, to my suprise :: when Iturned the key on the right blinker sat there merrily flashing away, no problem with brake lights after all LOL. I must have bumped it while reinstalling under dash brake stuff, Oh well you live, you learn. My mustang adventure continues.
 
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