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Discussion Starter #1
Quick backstory... 1966 mustang with green dot c4 automatic transmission. Over the last 2 months been doing the interior. Last week I replace the shift lever/knob. To do it, car was in park, i went under the car, removed pin, gently removed the linkage portion which goes into the shift housing. Replace with the new parts. Put all back together.

Come to find out, the shift pawl was to loose and was not tight enough to lift the lever out of park. So today I do it all again, figure out how to adjust the pawl, and make tight. Now I can get it out of park and into the other gears. Now from neutral to green dot, it doesnt take much pressure to move it, which I already know will have to go back and fix. But... i start car, shift out of park into reverse, and now car will not change to anything from park. NO reverse, No Drive, nothing. Is it possible i made the pawl too tight and now doesnt engage where supposed to? Why else would i not be able to put in reverse and other gears?
 

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Maybe the linkage came loose underneath the car. The pawl keeps you from moving the shifter from one setting to another but it doesn't do anything to the transmission. So that shouldn't be your problem.

It might just be loose directly under the shifter where it bolts to the linkage or maybe it came off up at the NSS. Either way I think your problem is going to be with that linkage under the car.

Once you find your issue there's a process for setting the linkage in the transmission section of the shop manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Maybe the linkage came loose underneath the car. The pawl keeps you from moving the shifter from one setting to another but it doesn't do anything to the transmission. So that shouldn't be your problem.

It might just be loose directly under the shifter where it bolts to the linkage or maybe it came off up at the NSS. Either way I think your problem is going to be with that linkage under the car.

Once you find your issue there's a process for setting the linkage in the transmission section of the shop manual.
Is there a way to tell if loose other than general feel? Everything feels pretty snug under the car.
 

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Really need to inspect the linkage. FWIW, my rebuilt C4 with new shifter and base also has little resistance from neutral to green dot. You can feel a bit of resistance between gears but it slides easily from N down until you want to shift into L which requires the button. I set my linkage by shifting to green dot with the nut loose then pushed the lever on the trans to one click from full forward and tightening the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So i readjusted the pawl but the original issue was a bonehead move on my part... i had a double bushing thing happening which didnt let the lever engage the linkage. Fixed that. It moves and shifts. But now forsure the linkage is off... the car is stuck in neutral so the car now wont start but she rolls via pushing like a champ.
 

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It sounds as if the detent mechanism isn't set up right. The button on the left of the shifter needs to be hooked up to the plate down below, or you will only be able to move back and forth between Neutral and "little dot" as you describe.


Once you get the shifter lever set up right, and its detent mechanism is okay, then you might need to adjust the linkage, so "Park" on the transmission matches "Park" on the shifter, etc.


Just loosen the adjuster on the linkage, (chock the car so it can't roll) put the shifter in Park, and then make sure the transmission's shift lever is in Park too. Tighten up the linkage adjuster once again, and TADA!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It sounds as if the detent mechanism isn't set up right. The button on the left of the shifter needs to be hooked up to the plate down below, or you will only be able to move back and forth between Neutral and "little dot" as you describe.


Once you get the shifter lever set up right, and its detent mechanism is okay, then you might need to adjust the linkage, so "Park" on the transmission matches "Park" on the shifter, etc.


Just loosen the adjuster on the linkage, (chock the car so it can't roll) put the shifter in Park, and then make sure the transmission's shift lever is in Park too. Tighten up the linkage adjuster once again, and TADA!
In the mustang manual i have... found this little diagram... is this correct and what you are talking about?
 

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No. That image has nothing to do with it. Let me break this down:


1) Make sure the shift lever detent mechanism is working inside your car, at the base of the shifter This DOES have to do with the picture above, but only tangentially. When you press the button, it should lift the little plate down below to clear the notches. If not, fix it. When that's working...


2) Put the shift lever in Park, and chock the tires.


3) Get under the car, and loosen the shift linkage adjustment, so the shift lever in the car and shift lever on the transmission can be adjusted. You already know the one inside the car's on Park, so just turn the transmission shift selector lever until it's in park too. You can feel each 'bump' as you move the transmission's shift select lever, so this part isn't hard to do either.


4) When the transmission's in park, go ahead and tighten the shift linkage back up so it can't slip. Test the shifter inside the car and see if it feels right.



5) Go for a drive!
 

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You went a little too far. The process you're looking for starts on page 7-25 of the '66 Shop Manual.

Just to supplement Grimbrand's instructions here's how Ford described doing the same thing:
1. Position the transmission se-lector lever in D1 (large dot) position (Fig. 18).
2. Raise the car and loosen the manual lever control rod retaining nut. Move the transmission manual lever to the D1 position, second de-tent position from the back of the transmission. The last detent position is manual low.
3. With the transmission selector lever against the stop and manual lever in the D1 positions, torque the attaching nut 20 to 25 ft-ibs.
4. Check the operation of the transmission in each selector lever position.

Directly under the shifter is where the adjustment is:
67-shifter_adjustment.jpg

When you're moving the shift lever on the transmission manually to make sure it's in Park, or D1 you can do that up where the linkage attaches at the Neutral Safety Switch. It's at the other end of that rod you just loosened up.
67-nss.jpg

Oh and he wasn't kidding about chocking the tires. Once you loosen the linkage the fact that the shifter says it's in park doesn't mean anything and the car will be free to roll as soon as you start moving that linkage around.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thank you both to Grimbrand and Magnus... very helpful, and the pics Magnus are greatly appreciated.

So abit more detail about the issue just to make sure on right track following these above steps.

After figuring out my screwup with the double bushing, the shift lever detent issue is fixed as far as I can change positions and the shift lever underneath the car actually moves. When testing out the shift lever, The car was off and I moved the lever from park, to reverse, to neutral and via recording with my phone under the car, I observed the control rod move. The car has since been in "stuck" in neutral being it just rolls, placing the lever into park will not secure the car. The actual lever moves but stays in neutral. I attempted to turn on the car, the power to radio and headlights work, but ZERO engine turn over. No crank or nothing. Total silence. The car started an hour prior no issues.
 

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Really need to inspect the linkage. FWIW, my rebuilt C4 with new shifter and base also has little resistance from neutral to green dot. You can feel a bit of resistance between gears but it slides easily from N down until you want to shift into L which requires the button. I set my linkage by shifting to green dot with the nut loose then pushed the lever on the trans to one click from full forward and tightening the nut.
Same here.
 

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When it comes to electrical gremlins, always check your battery cables and grounds first. Most of the time, if they're not making good connection, they will let 'some' power flow - giving you lights, radio, etc. but when you turn the key and try to engage the starter, the poor connection won't allow enough amps through to get the job done.


It's often something simple like the battery terminal cable being corroded up inside where you can't see, or the ground being all rusty where it's screwed to your engine block. Just check each terminal, one at a time, clean things and bolt them back up. Hopefully this fixes the problem! If not, see if your battery's low.


Oh! And don't forget to check your Neutral Safety Switch. If the transmission isn't in Park or Neutral, the key won't let it start. So this could just be coming back to proper adjustment of your shift linkage too.
 

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The car not starting is probably the NSS since your linkage isn't pointing to where the transmission thinks Park or Neutral are.

You could try moving the shifter back and forth while you're turning the key to confirm it. If it's trying to start in some spots but not others those are where the NSS and transmission line up with P and N and fixing the linkage should fix it.
 
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