Parts List?
Outer Wheel Bearing Set (bearing & race), 2 reqd.
Inner Wheel Bearing Set (bearing & race), 2 reqd.
Hub Grease Seal, 2 reqd.
Cotter Pin, 2 reqd.
Lower Control Arm, with Ball Joint, 2 reqd.
Upper Control Arm, with Ball Joint, 2 reqd.
Outer Tie Rod End, Driver's Side, 1 reqd.
Inner Tie Rod End, 2 reqd.
Outer Tie Rod End, Passenger Side, 1 reqd.
Pitman/Idler Arm Kit, Shelby "QuickSteer", recommended.
Stabilizer Bar End Link Kit, set of 2, 1 set reqd.
Stabilizer Bar Frame Bushings, 2 reqd or 1 set of 2.
Strut Rod Bushing Kit, 2 reqd or 1 set of 2 kits.
Coil Spring Lower Saddle (perch), 2 reqd.
Coil Springs, 2 reqd or 1 set of 2.
Coil Spring Insulator, Upper, 2 reqd.
Shock Absorber, 2 reqd.
That's pretty much it. When researching there may be additional questions, such as "with or without power steering". If you DO have power steering that raises a whole 'nother set of circumstances, such as the condition of the control valve, hydraulic hoses, slave (ram) cylinder and pump. At the very least you'll probably want to replace the bushings at the ram frame mount.
Now for my $0.02 worth.....
a. DO the "Arning" drop. Klaus Arning was a Ford engineer who recognized the inherent deficiency in the Mustang's front end geometry. After all, the car was designed using the Falcon's front suspension and it, as with almost ALL domestic cars of the day, were engineered with generous UNDER-steer, which is the tendency of the car to keep going straight when the steering wheel is turned. This keeps the "average" driver in relative control as opposed to having the car OVER-steer, where too much steering input results in the back end passing the front end! It's like a free gift...well, free if you know somebody with a 17/32" drill bit or relatively cheap if you have to buy one. It will make a difference not only in how the car handles at ALL speeds but the ride as well.
b. Try and purchase MOOG brand components when possible...and of those try to find "made in USA" vs. anywhere else. For bearings I've had good luck with both US AND Japanese, as well as European. SKF, NSK, NTN, Timken should all be fine. Yes, Eaton-Detroit Spring for springs, Koni or Bilstein for shocks.
c. For '65-66 owners, especially those with non-PS and non-Special Handling options (aka, "slow" steering box) and/or large diameter steering wheels where you're planning on replacing the Idler Arm anyway, I recommend the Shelby "QuickSteer" kit. These arms are extended to provide more mechanical advantage and "quicken" the steering ratio, typically cutting 1/2 to 3/4 turn off the lock-to-lock turning of the wheel. Make it much more enjoyable to drive. The only detraction is that it DOES slightly increase steering effort. Not noticeable with PS but more noticeable if you have wide tires on the front and a small steering wheel when parallel parking. Once moving it's not noticeable at all.
d. There's something to be said about purchasing Control Arms complete with ball joints. This eliminates the need to service the UCA shaft, bushings and seals and the LCA inner bushing is pretty much a non-serviceable item.
e. I'd avoid any suspension bushings made from polyurethane. They don't have the "give" of rubber and will not only transmit more road vibrations into the chassis, polyurethane strut rod bushings are well known to snap strut rods as the bushing is so hard it can't flex enough which means the strut rod itself will fatigue. The same is true with stabilizer links. Also, polyurethane stabilizer frame bushings are noted for squeaking.
f. Last one... Coil Spring Lower Saddles (perches). Ford made these, up through '64, using a bronze bushing and it was greasable. Due to cost, they changed the design to one that uses an elastomer to support the inner sleeve... the same type of material used in engine and transmission mounts, rear leaf spring eye bushings, etc. Because the saddle doesn't have to rotate all that much, from the Upper Control Arm going from full extension to full compression.... (I'd be surprised if it was even 45 degrees), the elastomer does a decent job, keeps things quiet and, if anything, the deflection from center adds a bit of "spring rate" to the front suspension. For a vehicle that isn't raced or auto-crossed it's doubtful the driver could even feel the difference. I'd stick with a lower-cost OE-style replacement vs. the extra cost of "rollerized" perches. If I was going to put ANYTHING "rollerized" on my Mustang they'd be, in this order, 1. Adjustable strut rods with spherical roller bearing ends and 2. Spherical-bearing mount Lower Control Arms. These are the 2 places most needing the precision offered by a roller bearing.
Happy Trails!