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I have the quick steer parts on my car along with Z’s beefy crossmember and I have 1/2” more space between the draglink and crossmember tube then Allen does. I’m almost sure my pitman arm is the same length as his so this is really a wacky problem.

Please, someone solve it.


Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #1,103
Can someone get their measurement from the center of the drivers side cross member bolt to the bottom steering box bolt? If not, I'll go to the main forum with it...

Mine is dead on 6 1/2" center to center.

Allen
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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I’m mostly yanking your chain. Getting the upper arm (are they centered on the shafts or biased to the rear?) and getting the lowers centered or caster friendly seems like your best bet for success. There are old posts on quick steer parts causing some interference. Might be one of those 1965 tolerance issues.
 

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Can someone get their measurement from the center of the drivers side cross member bolt to the bottom steering box bolt? If not, I'll go to the main forum with it...

Mine is dead on 6 1/2" center to center.

Allen
[/
Same here, 6.5”.
763000
 

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Discussion Starter #1,106
I’m mostly yanking your chain. Getting the upper arm (are they centered on the shafts or biased to the rear?) and getting the lowers centered or caster friendly seems like your best bet for success. There are old posts on quick steer parts causing some interference. Might be one of those 1965 tolerance issues.
That is not going to change the cross member to center link position. Not trying to be thick here, but that is my issue.

I did shorten the strut rods on both sides. It has not changed where the inner tie rod end is in relationship with the cross member...

The steering box is mounted to the frame (I took John's suggestion and loosened the bolts, pried the steering box rearward and tightened the bolts) and the idler arm is mounted to the frame (did the same procedure), the cross member is mounted to the frame, and the center link is mounted to the steering box and the idler arm. There is no way to move any of these objects and the problem is that the center link is too close to the cross member. That's why I'm looking for the dimensions of center of cross member bolt to center of lower steering box bolt and I would also like to get the center of the cross member bolt to the center of the lower idler arm bolt also.

I'm going to post those on the main forum and hopefully get a few more eyeballs.

I do appreciate you trying to help. I'm open to all suggestions and will take any pictures of anything anyone has a question on. The cars virtually naked at this point... :oops:

Allen
 

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Not what I expected. Can you get the idler arm to CM bolt?

Thanks for the help!!

Allen
8.5” if I felt right. Also 4” from center to center of drag link and CM.
763003
 

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Discussion Starter #1,109
8.5” if I felt right. Also 4” from center to center of drag link and CM. View attachment 763003
Dammit. I didn't post that measurement strictly so there's no way it could be biased. Exactly 8-1/2". I'll check the center to center on the CM and CL....

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter #1,110 (Edited)
Mine is 3.5". Mark and I measured this yesterday and we were 1/2" off also. It has to be the arms.

I'll put together an email to John at Opentracker. He has told me he wasn't opposed to sending parts, but has never had any be wrong on the quick link components.

Thanks again!

Allen
 

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Dammit. I didn't post that measurement strictly so there's no way it could be biased. Exactly 8-1/2". I'll check the center to center on the CM and CL....

Allen
Well, since the quick steer parts are “supposed” to be 1” longer, you should be at 3”?
 

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Best scenario is the quick steer parts are too long. Not sure how that can be though. Did you measure them? Is the drag link joints tightened all the way? Seated properly in the holes? It’s crazy stuff but something(s) is pushing the link too far forward. All your mounting points in the frame sound right.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,114
Best scenario is the quick steer parts are too long. Not sure how that can be though. Did you measure them? Is the drag link joints tightened all the way? Seated properly in the holes? It’s crazy stuff but something(s) is pushing the link too far forward. All your mounting points in the frame sound right.
Yes sir, I have/had cotter pins in the tie rod castle nuts on the center/drag link. I have but it's a bit difficult to get a really accurate measurement on them because of the shape.

We all concur, something is pushing the link to far forward, my only conclusion is the arms...

I have sent a request with all the measurements to John. I'm going to try another set however we can work it out.

Allen
 

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You may need the rare half-quick link that’s in between stock and the Shelby version.
 
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Allen LMK if you need me to measure my Cobra Automotive quick steering link components for reference...
 

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I understand many have run longer pitman and idler arms for years (including Shelby of course), however when considering them for my car I did not like that they would move the centerlink forward and cause a misalignment in the centerline tie rod hole and the spindle tie rod hole. To me it seems the steering box and the idler arm should move back by an inch for proper fit. It always seemed just too much of a hack to me; that probably comes from doing alignments for 10 years and dealing with wrecked cars.

The GT350‘s didn’t have the trans-am inspired crossmember (which is larger on the ends). The vintage race crowd must be using this combo these days though. Hopefully you can find enough slack and combo of parts to make it all work.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,120 (Edited)
Let me preface this by saying that all involved were very gracious in trying to help resolve this issue and at no point was anyone (including myself) seeking to put any blame on anyone. We were all simply looking for what the cause of the issue was and to remedy it.

I need to thank everyone for taking measurement that all pointed to my car NOT being the issue, this includes @Caper50 , @Russstang , @silverblueBP , @patrickstapler and @G.T.350-R who was willing to also get measurements for me. Sorry if I left anyone out.

Neither my car, Mark's or Patrick's is exactly the same. Mark and I both have Flaming River steering boxes, quick steer parts and ZRay cross member, but Mark doesn't have the jack pad. Patrick's is the same except he doesn't have a flaming river steering box. Also, I have 70 spindles, Mark 65/66 spindles and Patrick 73 spindles. So there are little differences.

I get a text today from Mark ~12:30 CST, "Are you at your shop?" No, but I will be in a hour or so. So I call Mark an hour later and he wants to start measuring things, him under his car (on his back no less) and me under mine (on the lift). So we start measuring everything and I do mean everything. We are also comparing pictures as we go through the measurements. Finally after ~45 minutes or so of this and sharing pictures, we share one from the exact same view but you can tell things do not line up the same. Mark ask to measure from the center link to the bottom of the crossmember bar. With the jack pad it's kinda hard to do but I come back with ~2". 2"? Mine is 4"! Hmmm. So we decide to check the length of the vertical plate that the bar is welded to. Mine is 3", Mark's is 2 1/2". I tell Mark if I had 1/2" there, I wouldn't have an issue. I call Patrick and he climbs under his car, sure enough his plate is 2 1/2".

The ZRay cross member that I have is made for an aftermarket pan and thus it hangs down lower to make sure it doesn't hit the pan. I call up @zray and we discuss the issue and he said that he can fabricate a cross member with the 2 1/2" end plates. Once I got back to the office, I let him know I had over 1" of clearance on both sides to the pan, so I think this will not be a problem for much longer. I needed a cross member for the GT anyway so no worries, I'll keep this CR also.

I will post the two pictures that got us where we needed to be in the next post.

Allen

Edit: I do give credit where its due, Mark has been mentioning cross member for a while, we just couldn't pin point what it was. I think @Russstang has mentioned it also.
 
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