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Looking good Allen!

You'll need to spot face the mounting ears of the calipers. As you've found out they mount on the opposite side which has a cast surface. You'll need to make this flat and parallel to the brake rotor.

We also machine off the ridge on the front side of the caliper. You may find left untouched it will interfere with your wheel:

 

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Discussion Starter #463
Picked up the block today. The crank has been 0 balanced, rods and pistons are mated, the block has been honed to the pistons and rings and the work will begin soon.

A pile of parts right now, hopefully to become a monster.

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter #464
The machine shop installed the piston pins and spiral locks.

I have to do the rings (I think this is a bit tight...lol). According to the guideline, I should be about .022" on the top rings. I will file each ring to spec and mark it for the cylinder. I need to find a good ring filer...

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter #465
Had some time this evening to tap out the block holes...I'm one that doesn't subscribe to the "thread chaser" theory instead of a tap.

I had two broke oil pan bolts and decided to use a broken punch to try and unscrew them. I found that it was simply black silicone in the holes...SCORE!

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter #469
Checking the machine shop today. All the main bearing clearances were basically the same. They looked even all the way across and they were all between .002" and .003" on the plastigage.

I have to get a few parts from Summit before I continue (maybe a run to Atlanta tomorrow) but the engine build begins. I still have to pressure wash the block just to make sure everything is clean of any dust or particles. I'm concentrating solely on the bottom end at this point and will update as I go.

The crank looks great and it is internally balanced. More to come!

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter #470
Used some industrial degreaser on the block and then pressure washed it. Once finished I air dried the block and then applied oil to any raw metal surfaces.

Next step was to get out the Ultra Slick and install the cam. It is now where it belongs and the engine is covered up awaiting the parts that will be here Thursday/Friday. I have ARP bolts for the mains and timing chain housing coming, Canton 8 quart oil pan and gasket, Fel-Pro gasket set, Cloyes Premium Billet Double Roller Timing Kit, ATI Internal Balance Harmonic Balancer, Canton pick-up tube and Comp Cams solid lifters on the way. I still have to get my rings filed to the correct tolerances per cylinder before I can finish the bottom end.

Thanks to @silverblueBP and @patrickstapler for help/moral support/making me feel like an idiot/laughs...

She's covered up until at least Friday.

Allen
 

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All the money I have spent at summit this past year, and they never sent me a cap. ? I would probably never wear it. But it's the principal of the matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #473
All the money I have spent at summit this past year, and they never sent me a cap. ? I would probably never wear it. But it's the principal of the matter.
Not the greatest cap ever made, so I wouldn't lose any sleep over it...:wink:

I'm like you, I'll never wear it...

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter #475
When installing the cam, I noticed that it was hard to turn when in completely. I could pull it out about 1/4" and it would spin freely. So I removed the cam and checked the bearings after spinning the cam a little with a battery drill. The picture shows the #4 bearing. I showed this to my machinist and he said do not run it like that. I have a new set of bearings on order. He told me to bring the block, bearings and cam to him when I get the bearing in.

Guess I'll work on getting the ring tolerances correct today...

Allen
 

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Discussion Starter #476
Filed the rings to match each cylinder, installed the rings on the pistons and marked each one for which cylinder it was filed for.

I always install the oil rings before starting the filing. A few things that I do when checking the rings for the correct gap:

1. I always check the ring in the cylinder it's going in for the correct tolerance BEFORE doing any filing and I always start with the second ring as opposed to the top ring.
2. I put the ring in the cylinder and use an old piston to push the ring down in the cylinder about one inch all the way around. (I hold the ring perpendicular to the cylinder and push it in then push the top side into the cylinder, try it, it works.)
3. Check with the feeler gauge to see what the gap is currently so I will know about how much needs to come off. (These rings actually touched when put in the cylinder.)
4. Remove the ring use a piston ring filer to remove some material (some come with a dial indicator). I go slow at this point even if I have to measure, remove and file several times).
5. Once the ring is to spec, I hit the end with a file to remove any bur that might be on the bottom side of the ring.
6. Once free of any burs, I install the ring (this is why I start with the second ring). I spin the ring to make sure it will spin freely ( I found on one that I forgot to file the bur off) and this will alert you to any problems.
7. Now I do the top ring, filing and measuring the same as the second ring was done and then install it on the piston.
8. I then mark on the piston with a sharpie which cylinder the piston is mated to.

This, to me, is probably the WORST part of building an engine. It's slow, monotonous, and BORING, however, it is a must do.

Glad it's behind me now and it looks like I will not be able to do anything else until the new cam bearings come in...

The picture shows the #6 cylinder being checked with the feeler gauge (what appears to be rust on the block is red permatex lube), the feeler gauge and a completed piston...

Allen
 

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That cam bearing looks pretty ugly. I haven't done an engine build in years and yeah file fit rings are time consuming and boring. I have never enjoyed building engines that much.

I have a rebuilt 289 short block that was assembled in the early 90s and never run. Not sure if I want to go through it and check it out as I will probably go with an explorer drivetrain. The heads intake and sheet metal put on it weren't nice and pretty like the block...
 
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