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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know about how long it takes to change out the under dash wiring harness
on a 66 using a stock style harness?
Thinking about more work as the interior is out .
 

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Including pulling the instrument cluster, etc., and not doing it every day a Saturday afternoon as long as you don't have TOO many adult beverages.
 

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I don't know how long it takes to put back, but when you find out let me know...as I've stripped the interior on my '66 Vert including my original Harness which is still in excellent shape. Let me know how long it takes you... I remember that mine came out in no time flat!.....

I can't imagine that it would take too long... Maybe 2 hours tops if you get lost...??!??...LOL....

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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I would plan for a full day if you still have a harness in there, and are just removing one old wire, replacing with new...Assuming the new harness has the correct colors and matches your original harness.

If you don't have a harness in there already, plan on some more time. Even with a wiring diagram, it's a bit confusing. Keep in mind that there are different manufacturer's of reproduction harnesses, and may not be totally correct. There also may be some variations in the original harness compared to the diagrams. Midlife restored my original harness, and there were 6 leads for cigarette lighters...
 

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With a stripped interior, figure 1-2 hours. Working around a radio, heater/AC, & other stuff, at least double. The hardest are is behind the dash, lots going on there. Best to have all the connections marked first and pic of what it should look like in position. The electrical assembly manual is a big help too.
 

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I agree, having rewired my 66 completely, I think I could redo it in a couple of hours once everything is out of the way, especially since it is only the under dash. BUT, I would give myself a whole afternoon, because you have to add time to open the beers (actually, the extra time is too remove the instrument cluster, radio, etc., make everything neat, test, and rectify any issues).

1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Heater box is out , fresh air vents out , firewall pad out , glove box out ....
Guess I might as well put in a new Alloy Metal harness . Engine feed harness
was replaced prior and I already have a new taillight harness on the shelf .
What's a few more dollars after owning the car since 1984 .

It would be nice to have a harness with a bigger fuse box , but I really don't want
to buy a Painfull Wiring harness and spent umpteen hours installing .
 

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Heater box is out , fresh air vents out , firewall pad out , glove box out ....
Guess I might as well put in a new Alloy Metal harness . Engine feed harness
was replaced prior and I already have a new taillight harness on the shelf .
What's a few more dollars after owning the car since 1984 .

It would be nice to have a harness with a bigger fuse box , but I really don't want
to buy a Painfull Wiring harness and spent umpteen hours installing .[/QUOTED]

Pad goes in first. Also don’t forget to get new rectangular retainers for the main feeds through the firewall.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/retainers-firewall-wiring-plug-2/102067?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3DWiring%252Bharness%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1966&year=1966
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks . Another item I will add to shopping list
 

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I installed the Painless harness and redid my whole car while I was at it. But if you don't need to replace the engine bay wiring, I wouldn't bother.
Glad I did, though, because I also installed a retrosound hermosa radio as well as air con, and now I have full faith in all the wiring. Also replaced the carpet, dash pad and seat belts since I had pretty much stripped the interior of the car.
Problem with the AAW kit (since I was buying a full kit) was that it required a single wire alternator and EFI, and I wasn't willing to go that far.
Also purchase the painless loom kit, which makes everything neater:)


1966 289 Auto Coupe
 

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I finally did the Alloy Metal harness a few months ago and it was long due. By the time I got my car the harness had been spliced and cut too many times. I never had a passenger side courtesy light, for instance. It took a few hours to install it, but I wasn't rushing. There's something satisfying about putting in all new wires that I didn't want to rush. It's tough to estimate the time because I took many breaks to play with my kids, but I'd guess maybe 4 hours total work? And a lot of that was just inspecting the under side of my dash. Plan for a day, but that harness is fairly easy except how tight the connectors are.
 

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A little dielectric grease helps with those tight connectors
 
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I completely rewired my 66FB two years ago with an Alloy Metal harness. Take the time as Flade says and label all the connections, believe me, you will not remember color codes when you are laying on your back. Before I installed mine, I laid it out on a table and used a cheap label maker to label all the connections. Keep in mind there will be wires that can be tied back if you do not have equipment like a console, air conditioner, etc installed. Lastly, I highly recommend getting a wiring diagram, well worth the money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Current looking at the upgraded harness . All stock connectors with the addition of a fuse box
with 12 ATO fuses and 2 built in relays.
I will probably label each connector as I disconnect them .
Not inexpensive , but will be worth having the extra fuses .
 

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Current looking at the upgraded harness . All stock connectors with the addition of a fuse box
with 12 ATO fuses and 2 built in relays.
I will probably label each connector as I disconnect them .
Not inexpensive , but will be worth having the extra fuses .
Not a bad approach if you plan upgrades. Otherwise you could just send your old harness to Midlife for a refurbishment.
 

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Current looking at the upgraded harness . All stock connectors with the addition of a fuse box
with 12 ATO fuses and 2 built in relays.
I will probably label each connector as I disconnect them .
Not inexpensive , but will be worth having the extra fuses .
I used the same harness. I looked at it for a few days and labeled everything. Took me a few days on and off. Take carefull look at the connectors. One of my under dash light feeds had the wrong connector on it. Had to send it back to NPD. Swapped it out easy enough. Just make sure you go over each connector.

Double check the emergency flasher switch. My 66 had the older harness that was separate and I had to buy a newer switch for the new harness to hook up to.

I also made a ginormous poster of the wiring diagram! Much easier to follow.
 

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It takes me about 30 - 40 minutes to remove a 1966 harness, less if stuff is out of the way.

When I put one back in, I feed it through the instrument hole, with the cluster attached.

I work left to right (courtesy light, fuse box, wiper, lights, brake) then the firewall, wiper, key, and finally over to the heater, courtesy light, etc.

Last thing is the speedo cable.


To me, it is much similar to run it that way, as once the cluster is attached, it takes out most of the connections.

I also uses multiple color zip ties, to ID wires, for example, yellow zip tie pile is all heading toward the heater area, blue are heading to the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Any chance you have the part # for the emergency lights? My car has never had emergency in the
35 years I've owned the car . I have an NOS set i was planning to install .
 

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Mid does a great job, but he is closed for several months, rebuilding after the last hurricane. Check his website for details.

Welcome to Midlife Harness Restorations
I am not surprised, Lynn haven took it really hard in Michael. We heard from Randy a few day after the storm came through, and he and his family were fine. What a difference 60 miles makes. We barely got any rain.
 
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