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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still muddling about AC installation on my 66 vert, 289/302.
I have a replica condenser with drier, a Sanden compressor mounted on an adapter to an original York mounting plate, and a 1965 evaporator (AC lines coming out the driver's side of the evap case).
I also am installing an electric fan with shroud.

From the highly variable info online, I see that the following lines are used:
A) a solid aluminum liquid line from the drier (which is directly connected to the condenser), looks about 2ft long and is "S" shaped;
B) that solid line connects to a #6 hose that goes to the evaporator
C) Then a #10 hose from the evaporator to the compressor
D) Then a #8 hose from the compressor back to the condenser

QUESTIONS:
1) Why is line "A" a solid long aluminum line? How is it routed? Why is it "S" shaped? I can't find any pix of how this #6 line is routed in the engine compartment.
2) Where and how do I insert a trinary pressure/fan switch? Directly onto the drier? ...or between line "A" and "B" (listed above)? Somewhere else?
3) I can make my own AC lines for the connections into and out of the evaporator (lines B and C), but I would like to buy pre-made lines out of the condenser and drier (lines D and A) because it looks like they route through some bodywork.
I have seen pre-made lines for sale on several AC sites, BUT MY WORRIES ARE THAT THE LINE "D" FROM THE COMPRESSOR TO THE CONDENSER MIGHT BE FOR AN ORIGINAL YORK COMPRESSOR and not a Sanden -- I think that there is a difference between York and Sanden hookups, right?
Anyone know about this?

Thanks for any pix or info.
 

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A) You only need the aluminum tube if you are going "Concours". Otherwise rubber hose is fine. The aluminum tube was S shaped to curve around the shock tower. It is also encased inside a clear vinyl tube for protection.
B) On '65 and '66 the compressor had #8 Rotolock fittings on both Suction and Discharge. Later cars had #10 on the Suction side.
C) I believe the Suction hose from the evaporator to the compressor was #8 since the fitting on the compressor is #8.
D) I believe the Discharge hose from the compressor to the condenser should be #8 since the fitting on the compressor is #8.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A) You only need the aluminum tube if you are going "Concours". Otherwise rubber hose is fine. The aluminum tube was S shaped to curve around the shock tower. It is also encased inside a clear vinyl tube for protection.
B) On '65 and '66 the compressor had #8 Rotolock fittings on both Suction and Discharge. Later cars had #10 on the Suction side.
C) I believe the Suction hose from the evaporator to the compressor was #8 since the fitting on the compressor is #8.
D) I believe the Discharge hose from the compressor to the condenser should be #8 since the fitting on the compressor is #8.

Good stuff, thanks.
Do you see any advantage to keeping the aluminum S-tube, such as it is better protected than a rubber hose, or it lays down better, etc?
Also, what is the route that the line from condenser to evaporator take? It is not visible on any of the pix I have seen, so it must be down low through the engine compartment, and then come up somewhere to enter the firewall to the evaporator, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, that pdf manual is fantastic. I've been working with both those sources.
But neither show where the binary or trinary switch goes (it says it is within the drier, but no electrical connections?), and doesn't show how liquid line is routed from drier to the evaporator -- whether it goes high on the engine compartment along with the evaporator suction line, or whether it goes low (which I am starting to believe, because I don't see the line in any pics of the engine bay).
I guess it's not too important -- just make it fit, huh.
 

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Maybe this will help. Note the clamp holding the liquid line to the shock tower. There is a dimple there on all 65-66 Mustangs to mark this point-

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Maybe this will help-

That's the first pic I have seen showing the solid aluminum tube, thanks.
By any chance, do you have a pic of where it exits from the front radiator support, and how it goes around the shock tower, and where/how it routes after that on the way to the evaporator?

Thanks again.
 

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QUESTIONS:
1) Why is line "A" a solid long aluminum line? How is it routed? Why is it "S" shaped? I can't find any pix of how this #6 line is routed in the engine compartment.
Safety and reliability. I already posted the photo.
2) Where and how do I insert a trinary pressure/fan switch? Directly onto the drier? ...or between line "A" and "B" (listed above)? Somewhere else?
You are on your own with this one, the OEM AC had no such switch.
3) I can make my own AC lines for the connections into and out of the evaporator (lines B and C), but I would like to buy pre-made lines out of the condenser and drier (lines D and A) because it looks like they route through some bodywork.
The hole locations for the condenser are marked with dimples in the radiator support. The top line does a 90° through the support, the lower one also turns 90° where it passes through. The drier is attached directly to the condenser. Using the OEM style hoses, brackets, and radiator support grommets will be far easier than making them.
I have seen pre-made lines for sale on several AC sites, but my worries are that the line "D" from the compressor to the condenser might be for an original York compressor, and not a Sanden -- I think that there is a difference between York and Sanden hookups, right?
Classic Auto Air makes special hoses to install a Sanden compressor in an otherwise stock AC installation. You must specify which when ordering, of course. The York/Techumseh hose (shown in my other post) are the same, the non-original Sanden hoses are quite different, but are routed the same as OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUESTIONS:
1) Why is line "A" a solid long aluminum line? How is it routed? Why is it "S" shaped? I can't find any pix of how this #6 line is routed in the engine compartment.
Safety and reliability. I already posted the photo.
2) Where and how do I insert a trinary pressure/fan switch? Directly onto the drier? ...or between line "A" and "B" (listed above)? Somewhere else?
You are on your own with this one, the OEM AC had no such switch.
3) I can make my own AC lines for the connections into and out of the evaporator (lines B and C), but I would like to buy pre-made lines out of the condenser and drier (lines D and A) because it looks like they route through some bodywork.
The hole locations for the condenser are marked with dimples in the radiator support. The top line does a 90° through the support, the lower one also turns 90° where it passes through. The drier is attached directly to the condenser. Using the OEM style hoses, brackets, and radiator support grommets will be far easier than making them.
I have seen pre-made lines for sale on several AC sites, but my worries are that the line "D" from the compressor to the condenser might be for an original York compressor, and not a Sanden -- I think that there is a difference between York and Sanden hookups, right?
Classic Auto Air makes special hoses to install a Sanden compressor in an otherwise stock AC installation. You must specify which when ordering, of course. The York/Techumseh hose (shown in my other post) are the same, the non-original Sanden hoses are quite different, but are routed the same as OEM.
22GT - thanks, great info - double thanks.
Regarding the exit holes from or to the condenser, and the dimples to look for... Yah, I saw those directions in that ClassicAutoAir (pdf) handbook.
Just ran out in the rain to check the car. Yep, there already are two holes in the radiator support/cross member, closely matching the manual, so I guess the car REALLY DID have AC installed at one time.
...and on the forewall, there is an oblong patched hole that is off-center, biased to the driver's side, making me think that a 1965 underdash evaporator had been installed (side-mounted lines -- as opposed to the center-mounted lines supposed to be present on the 1966 evaporator.
Finding out new stuff on this car all the time -- and the previous owner professes to know nothing about the car, although owning it over 10 years (or more likely because he owned it 10 years and has forgotten)
 

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The lower rad support hole is much too large, should be a round punch. The firewall hole was in the same place 65-66. Early cars had two round grommets, later cars had an oval 2-hole grommet with a steel retainer. All of these are available in repro.

 
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