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Discussion Starter #1
I took my z-bar out of my '66 when I pulled the motor and ordered the replacement bushing kit for it. I noticed one of the end tubes of the z-bar looked like it had been cut or maybe cleaned up a little. My z-bar is 6"...

Does anyone have the measurements of the tube that connects to the frame and the engine? Thanks!

Tim
 

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Could be a replacement. There was a point in time when they went obsolete from Ford at
the parts counter for a little while. This would have been right around the late 80's. From
what I was told, purchasing found another vendor, which had started out as a blacksmith shop.
They only made the '65 V-8 unit and if you had a '66, the parts counter told you to remove
the linkage pivot at the top.
Some of those Z-bars looked like they came from a blacksmith too.........
 

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It looks to be the original, but there is no part number stamped on it. Did all of them have part numbers stamped on them? It wouldn't surprise me if it is not the original. The more I peel the onion back, the more history I find out about the car.





Tim
 

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There was a recent thread about Z-bars that referenced two different lengths depending on whether you have a 5 or 6 bolt bellhousing. That was news to me, but it could be the one on your car needs the shorter and they got the longer variety?

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/980649-differences-between-5-bolt-289-6-bolt.html
His isn't even close to looking like the 64/66 5-bolt or 6-bolt equalizer bars (incl. HiPo). Look at the spacing on the arm where the clutch rod attaches.

Stangtim22,
What is your exhaust manifolds/header setup? Power steering?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There was a recent thread about Z-bars that referenced two different lengths depending on whether you have a 5 or 6 bolt bellhousing.
I don't understand how the bell housing would make a difference, since the Z-bar bolts to the block.

Tim
 

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It looks to be the original, but there is no part number stamped on it. Did all of them have part numbers stamped on them? It wouldn't surprise me if it is not the original. The more I peel the onion back, the more history I find out about the car.





Tim
Yeah, that's not one of the units i was talking about. That does look like someone put it together in shop class.
Looks like POR15 paint too....
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, that's not one of the units i was talking about. That does look like someone put it together in shop class.
Looks like POR15 paint too....
I just cleaned it up and painted it. Personal preference.

After I pulled my engine, I found out that it actually came out of a '71 Torino, vice '71 Mustang like I thought it had. Could this be the Torino z-bar?

It's functional and works just fine, I just hope it doesn't cause any issues with the LT headers.

Tim
 

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I'm measuring 3.5" (from left to right) on tube where the red line is (left side of arm) on a C5ZZ equalizer.

It looks like a stock unit aside from the arm where clutch rod attaches (different location point on tube, different length).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm measuring 3.5" (from left to right) on tube where the red line is (left side of arm) on a C5ZZ equalizer.

It looks like a stock unit aside from the arm where clutch rod attaches (different location point on tube, different length).
Maybe the PO had modified it or made their own.

Do they all have the PN's stamped into them?
 

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No part # stamp.

It appears your clutch rod would attach on your equalizer bar further towards the outside of the car than a stock unit. So question comes up what are you using for a clutch rod and clutch fork so you don't have a weird angle between clutch rod (where its attached to your equalizer) to clutch fork. I'm surprised its not interfering with your exhaust.

*The pivot that screws into the block. I'd personally clean (strip paint) on those threads and put anti-seize on them! Nothing worse than have that snap off in your block in future when you go to unscrew it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My lower rod look likes this, but I don't remember any weird or binding angle. It's functioned like normal.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
No part # stamp.



*The pivot that screws into the block. I'd personally clean (strip paint) on those threads and put anti-seize on them! Nothing worse than have that snap off in your block in future when you go to unscrew it.
I bought the bushing kit and it came with a new one. :grin2:
 
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