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67 coupe daily driver

24K views 133 replies 21 participants last post by  Zarsk 
#1 ·
The Car
  • 67 coupe, 289-2V, C4, 2.79 open
  • Red std interior w/console
  • Currently red, factory Whimbeldon white w/ red pin stripes
  • Purchased Oct 2019
Existing Condition
  • Engine runs but needs a rebuild. Is not the original engine, 66 build date stamped on the block (car is a late 67).
  • Interior is in pretty decent condition. Console has some damage.
  • Sheet metal work needed includes floor pans, torque box, floor supports, partial front and rear frame rails, front apron patches, inner/outer rocker patches, trunk drop offs, quarters and outer wheel wells. Quarters were replaced at some point but need another replacement.
The Plan
  • Return the car to its original appearance w/ red pin stripes
  • 351W swap, mild build, stock appearance. I will likely rebuild the 289 at some point and may return it to this car.
  • Interior will get new paint, carpet, door panels and dash pad.
  • Car will be completed in two phases. Phase 1 goal is to get it back on the road for summer 2020 by completing major mechanical and sheet metal work. Phase 2 will be completing the body work/paint and interior.
  • I was initially going to restore this over a much longer period of time but a friend offered up his heated garage so I towed it over and got right to work.

I started this build thread a bit late but I’ll post all progress starting from the beginning of the project.
 
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#3 ·
Progress to End of 2019
Car sat in my garage for a month then I moved it to a heated garage. Set up the garage for work: cleanup, welder and compressor install. Tear down on the car. 351W short block received from machine shop.
 

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#7 ·
Jan 2020

Things moved pretty slowly. My first time working on a car or welding since my high school days (circa 2000). Just like riding a bike, right? First few welds were quite sloppy but got the job done. Here’s what I completed in Jan:
  • L inner/outer frame rail partial replacement
  • L inner rocker partial replacement
  • L floor support replacement
  • L torque box replacement
Don’t forget, safety first haha
 

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#13 ·
Feb 2020

This month I tackled the L floor pan/seat platform and L lower firewall.

I’ve had the new floor pan since 2001 but no car to put it in. The pan fit pretty well except at the transmission crossmember. Took some serious dolly work to get it to fit right. The lower firewall and seat platform also required some tweaking but nothing major.

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#16 ·
My aunt had a 67 289 4speed she bought brand new. When I was a teenager she let me drive it around her paved driveway. I always really like that car. Also a buddy of mine when I was running around town back in the early 90s had a 67 fastback with a 3 speed in the floor with a 302. He hot rodded that thing every time he drove it. A lot of good memories with the 67s
 
#17 ·
I worked in a body shop from the ages of 16 to 23. Started out sweeping the shop through a high school work program, ended up getting a job there and worked my way up to painting cars. I bought a 67 coupe project car from the owner of the shop when I was 18. Sadly I had to sell the shell when the shop moved locations and I had nowhere to store the car. I did end up keeping a bunch of parts and the itch to get another one some day and finish it.

I’m 36 now so we’ll just call this my mid life crisis car lol. Either way I’m checking off a bucket list item with this project. I also have a son and I’m looking forward to tackling a father/son project when he’s old enough to participate. Hopefully it’s something special we can bond over for years to come!
 
#18 ·
Mar 1 to Mar 7

Moved over the the R side. Added a torque box, frame rail patches, new floor support, floor pan/seat platform and lower firewall.

Decided to add a torque box to stiffen things up. I also plan on sub frame connectors. Both boxes came with the gussets, might throw those on too.

Frame rails required some patching behind the connection to the floor support. Everything fit pretty well except the floor pan at the transmission crossmember. It required the same massaging as the L side. This is my first restoration and I’m happy to say this side took one quarter the time the L hand side took!

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#24 ·
Mar 15 to Mar 21

Worked on patching the tops of the fender aprons. These were previously patched and rusted through again in a couple spots. I got a little too enthusiastic and cut out the L front apron where it connects to the shock tower. With the rad support out the L front apron is now free to move all over the place. Good thing I took a bunch of dimensions before the rad support came out so I know where it needs to be. Left the R front apron alone so it doesn’t move on me which will help me ensure the new rad support is located correctly. I’ll patch up the front aprons once the rad support is in. Also patched under the battery tray.
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#25 ·
Mar 22 to Mar 28

Started prepping the engine bay for paint. Once it’s prepped the new rad support and final apron patches can be completed and I can get the bay in paint!

Decided to media blast to get everything down to bare metal. Blasted right in the garage, not ideal but I had the doors open to keep the air moving and rigged up some quality “hoarding” haha. Just waiting on my spring compressor so I can tear down the suspension and finish blasting in the towers.
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#28 ·
Apr 12 to Apr 18

Removed the original seam sealer from the cowl and side panels with a wire wheel and blasted them. Then moved on to addressing the inner cowl issues. The L side was rotted through at the top hat so needed to be replaced. The R side was is better shape and wasn’t rotted through. Decided to do patches of just the hat areas on each side. Feel free to scold me for taking the shortcut by not doing the entire inner but it just didn’t seem worth 10x more work and more money for this daily driver. The patches will be just fine! I cut access holes on the outside edges of the outer cowl (under the fenders) to allow me to install each patch. Paint, seam sealer, then more paint prior to install. Pieces fit pretty well except the studs on the L patch didn’t match the vent assembly that connects to it. Just had to drill a new hole in the vent assembly flange so it can bolt up.
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#29 ·
Apr 19 to Apr 25

Next up was dealing with the back end of the car. My plan is to leave the existing quarters (they were previously replaced), taillight panel and outer wheelhouses. All these panes need to be replaced but for now I’ll just do some quick patching and body work to make the car road worthy. My plan is to get the car safe and mechanically sound so I can drive it this year and then tackle the cosmetic aspects next winter include new quarters. I welded in three patches in the R wheelhouse, one on the R quarter and one on the R trunk drop off. Also ground down a few areas with quite a bit of existing filler that were bubbling. Filled these back up for the time being.
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Also got my carb, intake, headers and shocks. Picked up the shocks here on the forum, thanks @Uncle Buck! Based on what others have to say about KYB GAJs hopefully I can tolerate them long enough til I can pick up some bilsteins.
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#34 ·
Apr 19 to Apr 25

Next up was dealing with the back end of the car. My plan is to leave the existing quarters (they were previously replaced), taillight panel and outer wheelhouses. All these panes need to be replaced but for now I’ll just do some quick patching and body work to make the car road worthy. My plan is to get the car safe and mechanically sound so I can drive it this year and then tackle the cosmetic aspects next winter include new quarters. I welded in three patches in the R wheelhouse, one on the R quarter and one on the R trunk drop off. Also ground down a few areas with quite a bit of existing filler that were bubbling. Filled these back up for the time being.
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Also got my carb, intake, headers and shocks. Picked up the shocks here on the forum, thanks @Uncle Buck! Based on what others have to say about KYB GAJs hopefully I can tolerate them long enough til I can pick up some bilsteins.
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You’re doing such good welding with the patches, why skim those few spots with filler?
 
#30 ·
Apr 26 to May 2

Planned on removing the rear suspension but didn’t go as planned despite soaking everything multiple times with penetrant. Was able to remove the nuts from the front of the leaf springs but couldn’t get the bolts out. Nuts on the plates wouldn’t come loose. I was able to get the lower shackle bolts out. Soaked everything with penetrant again. Time to move on.

Welded in the L/R torque box gussets. Fit was pretty bad on both sides. Thick steel, went straight to the BFH. Took some effort to take out the bends and add new ones on the brake.
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Sanded some filler on the quarter panel. A regular block is not the best for sanding the concave tops so a made one from 1-1/4 ABS. Made a long one and a short one so I could get in all the areas. They worked great!
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