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Discussion Starter #201
Thanks for performing the science experiment, we all benefit.

So question, if you can spot weld through the adhesive/seam sealer, then why can't you apply seam sealer around the rosette weld holes and then rosette weld? Any seam sealer that would squeeze into the weld area could be cleaned up before welding. I ask as this would be a preferred approach if it can be done. No need to transport the shell to a shop and I have gotten pretty good at plug welding.

Thanks
I feel like all I'm doing is science experiments. Too many experiments, not enough work lol.

Good question. All the weld through sealer and adhesive is actually only for spot welds. They usually say if MIG welding is needed, keep it a couple inches away from the sealer/adhesive, making it not compatible with MIG/Wire Feed/Rosette Welding for a cowl. The welds are too close together.

That's why I'm going to take it to a shop with a digital/timed spot welder. My HF spot welder needs to keep the on time at nearly 7 seconds, which would also get the joint too hot too. The professional spot welders are on for only a fraction of a second and are consistent, which keeps the heat down.

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Discussion Starter #202
As promised, I proceeded to get the car on the ground, on rubber, for the first time in 4.5 years!

First, I started with deconstructing the chassis jig I've come to know and love that I built from scratch. It's been an extremely stable platform. Kind of sad to see it come apart. While most of it bolts together, the diagonals and rear support were welded, so those had to be set free with a little cutting and grinding.
20200711_144905 by 7T02S, on Flickr

Then I started situating jackstands and wood cross supports inside the chassis jig that would support the car. The front was easy since it was already being supported by scissor jacks at the front rockers. That was easy to drop down onto the jack stands. In the rear, I used a bottle jack to raise the car (and the jig) so that I could set the wood down on the jacks. This actually then suspended the jig at that point.
20200711_154332 by 7T02S, on Flickr

Sunday morning, I then reassembled the front suspension and disc brakes. Fortunately, I already pre-installed the suspension, so the mods need to make it fit were already made. I also installed the bearings fully greased even though it won't drive in this state before taking it back apart. Not shown, I also installed the wheels and tires. Also not shown, I installed the steering. Everything is actually set to reasonable camber, caster, and toe numbers as a starting point to make it "measurable" for clearances and to be able to load it on a trailer.
20200712_115839 by 7T02S, on Flickr

Then I unbolted the four cross trusses.
20200712_123909 by 7T02S, on Flickr

Then I was able to get in and support the rear with a floor jack. Part of the whole reason of getting to this point was to be able to install the leaf springs since the chassis jig picked up on the front leaf spring mounts as the main, bolted support. First indication were the car was pretty darn square - it lowered down on to all four jack stands, not three. A good sign.
20200712_124604 by 7T02S, on Flickr

I then proceeded to install the original Shelby leaf springs, which were part of the Competition Handling Package in 67. I also spent the morning degreasing the original 9" housing and center section that a PO decided to paint white. I had already disassembled the center section and axles, so the housing was light and easy to place on the springs and bolt into place.
2020-07-14_07-20-40 by 7T02S, on Flickr

Lifting the center section up and installing into the housing was a different story - it took every muscle in my body to hoist it up.
20200712_155345 by 7T02S, on Flickr

I then installed the axles, discs, and wheels.
20200712_172943 by 7T02S, on Flickr

I then lowered it onto the ground hoping it wouldn't IMPLODE on itself! I cracked a celebratory beer for the occasion!
20200712_181704 by 7T02S, on Flickr

OMG, OMG, OMG. It didn't implode!
20200712_181427 by 7T02S, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Other signs of success are that the rear tires ended up within 1/16" of center and that the rear wheel openings are within about 1/8" in height to each other as it sits. I lowered the front coil overs down to get it near equal height across the front wheel well openings. There were also no creaks, pops, bangs, or other disconcerting sounds as I lowered it on the ground.

Next up is actually loading it up on the trailer to take it to a local shop next week to "weld bond" the cowl and dash into place with spot welds and structural adhesive/sealer. I'll then bring it home to install the engine, bell housing, and transmission. That'll then be at a good point to do any final fabrication to the car, install the subframe connectors, make an x-brace, install driveshaft loops, check air cleaner to hood clearance, and other checks. I'll also work on the hydraulic clutch and several other question marks. I'll then take it all back apart and get some primer on it.
 

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7T, WOW, awesome attention to minute detail. I'll be watching. I see you're still hiding the wheels okay, its a secret, I get it. So, as I watch, I'm thinking,....17 x 9.5, 6.5 backspace in rear and 17 x 8 with 5 inch back space on the front, yes ? And how much room is between the 275s and the leaf springs ? I'm trying for similar tires out back, and have 15s now, but want to switch to 17 for availability. LSG
 

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Discussion Starter #205
7T, WOW, awesome attention to minute detail. I'll be watching. I see you're still hiding the wheels okay, its a secret, I get it. So, as I watch, I'm thinking,....17 x 9.5, 6.5 backspace in rear and 17 x 8 with 5 inch back space on the front, yes ? And how much room is between the 275s and the leaf springs ? I'm trying for similar tires out back, and have 15s now, but want to switch to 17 for availability. LSG
Thanks LSG! I figure I'll do a reveal on the wheels when I get tires of bluring the photos or when it's actually able to drive.

On the fronts, I'm at about 5" BS but I'm using aftermarket A-arms, so that may or may not be applicable to your setup. As for the width, these A-arms are longer than stock even when adjusted as short as they'll go, so the front wheel/tire width isn't a good number to use.

The rear is a 6" BS on a 9.5" wheel. I have about 3/4" to the factory leaf springs and close to an 1" to the inner wheel well that I widened. I wouldn't want to use a 6.5" BS with leaf springs personally. I also prefer to have lots of clearance on the inside for tire flex and ariculation of the suspension, so I'm right where I want to be on the inside. It's hard to tell on the outside how much clearance I have to my rolled lips but it looks like 1/4" to 1/2" using a plumb bob. That's not really a good reference to use because both the wheel well and quarters are new and I tried to flex them out as much as I could before welding them in, so my inside numbers to the wheel well and widened inners are probably the only numbers that are good for you to reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #206
I took about 100 parts down to get blasted and powder coated. The total price will be under $400, which is totally worth all the time it saved me from having to try and do them myself. That's a LOT of parts. It would have taken me months to do them all myself, I think.

Here's part of the first batch I got back. I already bolted the leaf spring plates and pedal support into the car but they look pretty good too. Well, not the leaf spring plates - they were badly pitted and distorted from a PO torquing them too much, so I have some MMI plates on the way, on of which is part of the panhard bar kit. The sway bar is a gloss black but the others are their BK08 black, which is sort of a semi-gloss.
2020-07-18_10-51-07 by 7T02S, on Flickr
 
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