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Discussion Starter #1
I Haven’t posted for a while, but I am in need of some assistance. Working on my 67 S code convertible and I have an issue on the front end/rails. the car is on a jig and shows level from the rear of the car all the way up to right before the shock towers then the drivers side starts to show lower that the passenger side. It‘s a 1/4“ different/lower than the passenger side if I put a level on the top of the lower part of the radiator support. Makes no sense to me. I’ve searched the web and the forum and found quite a few engine compartment/fender apron measurements and the car measures out perfect going by those. I can see no accident damage to the car and I have put a straight edge on each rail and they seem good. The passenger side torque box and inner rocker had been replaced by a previous owner, but the drivers side had not been touched. I’m not sure if the driver’s side is the correct height or the passenger side or maybe they are both wrong? Any and all measurements for the front end, frame rail height and engine compartment I would really appreciate. I’ve been going over this for a couple of weeks and I’m going a bit nuts trying to figure this out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That would be great. Looking for a height measurement for the rails if that makes sense. 1/4“ seems like alot to be off From each other. I’m not where I can take a pic at the moment.
 

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My stang is still away in my enclosed trailer. But give me a day or so, I'll take a couple lh & rh side pics best I can as my car is done. Most likely has to come out this weekend anyway.
But keep in mind, my car has the 390 in it. But lets see lh to rh diff.
 

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There are 12 specific reference points (6 on each side) that are used as reference points to a "datum line", an invisible reference line that would form a perfectly flat surface under the car. Note that I didn't say "level", as "flat" and "level" are not necessarily mutually inclusive, depending on where you are standing. What you don't know for sure, at this stage in the game, is whether one side is low or the other side is high. Something back in my "memory banks" remembers something about the subframe in the front actually running DOWN at the very end, but that could be on something else in the past, like a Kaiser-Frazer as much as it could be a Mustang. LOL. Best to be absolutely sure.

Oh yeah... for those who have jigs or fixtures made and assume that your floor is level.... if it's poured concrete and was done by a professional then it probably has as much as a one inch in ten foot run toward the overhead door.... or SHOULD have.
 

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hey, Google 1970-67 Mustang frame diagrams and see if any of them help you. Your question is hard to answer as none will be the same as yours. as you said it is on a jig of some type. I also have a 68 convertible i am working on, but cant answer you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have the car level at the rockers front to back and side to side. It’s good all the way back to the tail end just have that one issue in the front. I learned pretty much anything is fixable doing the last car. It was in really rough shape, bad repairs etc. learned a lot on that one. I’ve been going over this for quite a while and it’s driving me crazy. Like Woodchuck said I don’t know which side is right. Or they may both be out of whack. Hard to say at this point.
 

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It might just be something you have to live with. A 1/4 inch is not that bad, Can you lay a level across the rails in front of the towers? see what it looks like, Ford frame diagrams state tolerance of = or + of a 1/16 inch. Could be one side is - and the other side is +. Just hard to say, Also states bottom of rail right before tower is 10.940 from a data line parallel to base line[ floor] Also show 12.94 at the very front rail center of the first hole, or the upper suspension front mounting hole to be 20.00 inch
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I can. In front of the towers is where the 1/4" starts to show up. Weird thing is the front is square by all the measurements I've taken. Had no problem at all putting the export brace on to hold everything in place and the engine cross member went on super easy too. Maybe possible that's just how it was built, but where I have the car totally stripped and apart doing inner rockers, floor pan etc I figure now is the time to address any issues.
 

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Well I will be honest with you, I have restored 10 of these cars the last two have been convertibles, I am as you, redoing my last convertible as we speak, I have never had a problem or should say, never got that deep into the measurements.I did screw up on 1, replaced the shock towers with out the export brace mounted, total nightmare, had to cut out and redo, So good thing you had yours in. i wish i could help you more, I feel if you have checked and rechecked, and that is the only problem you see, You will be fine. You have to remember, it took FORD 3 minutes to build one of them,
 

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I can. In front of the towers is where the 1/4" starts to show up. Weird thing is the front is square by all the measurements I've taken. Had no problem at all putting the export brace on to hold everything in place and the engine cross member went on super easy too. Maybe possible that's just how it was built, but where I have the car totally stripped and apart doing inner rockers, floor pan etc I figure now is the time to address any issues.
Hi, didn't forget you on me getting some measurements. I'm an essential worker so when I get home it's getting dark.
I do have to get my vert out of my trailer this weekend as a friend gonna borrow it. I'll try to take a few measurements while it's sitting on flat trailer floor. Few from very end of frame rails, horizontal & vertical. Maybe frame height back end of front frame. Note, my reading will just be if each side same height. Not so much actual reading as that's dependent on height of my tires.
I'm guessing your reading maybe how car made?? If never hit in front. Betting if put on a frame machine, be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi, didn't forget you on me getting some measurements. I'm an essential worker so when I get home it's getting dark.
I do have to get my vert out of my trailer this weekend as a friend gonna borrow it. I'll try to take a few measurements while it's sitting on flat trailer floor. Few from very end of frame rails, horizontal & vertical. Maybe frame height back end of front frame. Note, my reading will just be if each side same height. Not so much actual reading as that's dependent on height of my tires.
I'm guessing your reading maybe how car made?? If never hit in front. Betting if put on a frame machine, be ok.
Any and all measurements will help me. Would like to get them off of an actual car so I truly appreciate you getting those for me. Whenever is good. I’m in the “essential“ category too and my schedule sounds a lot like yours. By the time I get home it’s generally of late to do much of anything. Summer time is a a bit better because of the longer daylight hours. I mess with the car and all the other house projects etc on Sunday and one day during the week I have off. Totally appreciate the help
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well I will be honest with you, I have restored 10 of these cars the last two have been convertibles, I am as you, redoing my last convertible as we speak, I have never had a problem or should say, never got that deep into the measurements.I did screw up on 1, replaced the shock towers with out the export brace mounted, total nightmare, had to cut out and redo, So good thing you had yours in. i wish i could help you more, I feel if you have checked and rechecked, and that is the only problem you see, You will be fine. You have to remember, it took FORD 3 minutes to build one of them,
It probably didn’t take them that long. Throw the parts in the jig and go nuts with the spot welder. I might be being a bit picky, but I want it right. I’ll post some pics of the car here in a sec to give you an idea what I got going on. The quarters were cut off the car, mostly and it was apart and on a stand when I bought it. Whoever had it before the guy I bought it from had it media blasted then just stopped working on it. Mostly solid but covered in surface rust. The person I got it from, who I’ve known for years, bought it and never got a chance to mess with it. It’s in way better shape than the last one I put together. Being a convertible and a 390 car I just couldn’t pass it up and the deal was right. I have a lot of patience for this kind of stuff. But this one has me a tad stumped.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Heres a few pics. I replaced the drivers side inner rocker, torquebox. They hadn't been touched and had big rust holes in the inner rocker. The passenger side I have the inner rocker and the torque box out, ready to put the new one in. The aprons are still in the car, the floor where the frame rails are welded to it are still partially there to prevent any movement. I have an export brace, the engine brace and a rod through the shock towers to keep things in place as well. I leveled the car at the rockers, welded the car to the cart/jig at 4 points on the outer rockers. Door braces welded to the car. There are several other things I did to prevent any movement as well. Bolts in the floor supports and trans mount as well as bolts in the rear frame rails at the front and rear of both rear frame rails. It hasn't moved. issue was there before I replaced any metal.the level across the shock towers is close to where it needs to be, but the black one I have on the radiator support you can see is worse. If I put the small level on the rails just behind the shock towers its perfect from there back to the firewall. In front of the shock towers toward the front of the car is where it really starts.














 

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Are the bottoms of the frame rails level and the tops are off? Maybe the frame rails aren't the same height.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
They are the same. I just measured them. They are original frame rails also. i hear the aftermarket ones are different. Good idea to check that though.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Messed around with the laser level today. I’m thinking the drivers side is the issue. If I set the laser level at 6” below the frame rail where it goes into the floor supports like the Liskey sheet says I get 11 1/8” at the very front on the passenger side and 10 7/8” on the drivers side. I saw an old thread where Rusty Gillis posted that the diagram is wrong and front should be 11 1/8”. Still need to go back over the rest of the car but I need to move a bunch of stuff that I stashed under the car for the winter. But I’m thinking that’s the deal. Still wouldn’t mind measurements just to confirm that and a couple of other things.
 
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