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67 Mustang 351w
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A little history: My mother and stepfather bought this car about 14 years ago. They had most of the restoration done on the car (primarily paint, chrome, and interior). Then, it sat under a carport for the next 8 years and began to deteriorate once again. I bought the car off of them about 4 years ago. Once I got the car running, it ran well. I brought it to the track, and it ran a 13.0 1/4 mile, but I wasn't happy with those results. The 60' was terrible (2.0s), most likely due to having too big of a carb (Holley 750 DP). I am not a carb guy, so I knew I eventually wanted to convert to EFI. At the time, this is was specs of the car:

'69 351w bored 0.030 over, stock stroke
Factory Iron Heads with larger valves/springs
Comp 1.6 ratio rocker arms
Comp Magnum 280H camshaft
1 5/8" Hooker longtube headers
2.5" collectors and 2.5" dual exhaust
C4 Transmission w/2800 stall
4.11 gears

We then bought 24 acres in the woods, and began the process of building our forever home, so the car basically sat in my shop for the next 2-3 years. In December of 2020, I tested positive for Covid-19, and I was stuck at home for 14 days. On day 2, I was already bored, so to my shop I went. Ever since the trip to the track, I knew I eventually wanted AFR heads, but had no clue if the pistons in the motor would have clearance for the valves, so I decided to pull the motor. This was my first time ever pulling a motor out of a vehicle, and disassembling an engine.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I was also very embarrassed of how hideous everything looked under the hood. There was a ton of rust, and all the wiring just looked like crap. I was determined to clean this up as well. I spent a couple of days prepping the engine bay. The radiator support was rusted/pitted pretty deep, so I had to take it all the way down to the metal. I simply used rattle cans for this job.
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I then made a phone call to AFR, and found that the only heads they had that would work with the existing pistons were their 170cc heads. I knew I wanted bigger than that, so I then began calling piston manufacturers. I ended up buying the Keith Black KB136 -1cc dome pistons. Paired with the 72cc AFR 185 Renegade heads, this should put me around 10.2:1 compression. My heads show that they should be delivered tomorrow, and I hope to have the block with new pistons installed back this week as well.
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I had been researching EFI for a while, and I was pretty set on the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4. When I got on Jegs one day, they had the kit I needed for $100 off, so I jumped on it. I then ordered the recommended Edelbrock 3604 Fuel Pump kit.
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I do not have a welding machine, so I needed to figure out a way to mount the fuel pump and filters to keep it at, or below the fuel pickup. I found these braces at a local hardware store, and figured they would work, since they were pretty heavy duty. I simply bent them in a vice using a hammer. If I had to do it over again, I would NOT have purchased this fuel pump kit, and I would have ran all SS braided fuel lines instead. But for now, it will have to work. I utilized the existing fuel line as the return. I installed a new fuel sending unit, and bent the fuel return tube inside the tank 180 degrees away from the fuel pickup. I simply utilized the fuel tank drain as my fuel supply for now.


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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I had decided that I wanted to run the Comp XE284H camshaft with my combo. I ordered it back in January, and it showed the estimated ship date to be mid February. Well mid February came, and still no camshaft. When I called to check the status, the estimated ship date was now late April. I did not want to wait that long, so I began shopping again. I looked at Howard's and Lunati. The cam that Howard's picked out was an estimated 4-5 weeks from shipment. The one Lunati specified was in stock, so Lunati it was. It has less lift than what I initially thought I wanted, but since this car will very seldom see the track, this is probably the most logical choice. Here are the specs on this cam from Lunati's website:

Hydraulic Flat Tappet. High performance street cam likes 2400 RPM stall, 650 CFM carb, dual plane intake & headers. Makes un-equaled power to 6200 RPM with proper springs. Strong cam with great street manners for crate motor. Factory EFI needs custom chips/tuning.; Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 268/276; Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 227/233; Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .522/.538; LSA/ICL: 110/106; Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd; RPM Range: 1800-6200

I also decided to pick up a set of Scorpion rocker arms to replace the Comps. I have purchased 90% of the parts for this build, and my Excel spreadsheet shows the total cost will be around $9K. Keep in mind, the only parts that won't be new under the hood are the block, crank, rods, timing cover, flywheel, and harmonic balancer. I will post more pics as soon as more progress is made.
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67 Mustang 351w
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When it's all said and done, here will be the total specs:

‘69 351w bored 0.030 over, stock stroke
Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI w/included single plane intake
AFR 185 Renegade heads w/72cc combustion chambers
KB hypereutectic -1cc dome pistons
10.2:1 compression
Scorpion 1.6 ratio rocker arms
Lunati Voodoo 268 camshaft
1 5/8" Hooker longtube headers
2.5" collectors and 2.5" dual exhaust
C4 Transmission w/2800 stall
4.11 gears

I'm hoping that this combo gets me well over 400 HP.




 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was also having cooling issues during the heat of Texas summers. When I pulled the motor apart, I found the coolant passaged blocked from calcium buildup. I have a new 24" 2 row radiator with 1" tubes and dual fans that I had already purchased prior to pulling the motor apart. After finding the blocked passages, this radiator may no longer be necessary, but i'm going to install it anyway.
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I'd go with a cam with a wider LSA, your EFI will be happier.
 

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@DIHLON I have no doubt that combo is going to make more than 400hp. I’m running the same heads with a 10.1 CR and a very similar cam and I’m around 460-470hp. Best of luck and post lots of pics!

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@DIHLON I have no doubt that combo is going to make more than 400hp. I’m running the same heads with a 10.1 CR and a very similar cam and I’m around 460-470hp. Best of luck and post lots of pics!

Ken
Is that calculated, or did you put it on a dyno? I’d love to see the dyno chart if you have it.
 

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Unfortunately I wasn’t able to put it on a dyno before I installed it in the car, but my builder put together the package with those numbers in mind and was very confident that I would be in there.

Now, there is definitely more to an engine than just heads, cam, and displacement. Port matching, fuel and spark tuning, weight matching the rotating components, etc. all increase power. But he AFR heads flow so well and are matched very well to that cam and displacement, so I would be shocked if you were even close to being below 400hp.

This guy is running a larger cam than you (which matters), but he’s at 475hp with 185AFRs and stock displacement.

Ken
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Finally got my motor back today. Pistons ended up being out the hole 0.020” on one side and 0.030” on the other. When I ordered the pistons, I told the manufacturer’s technical support that I still had the factory length rods and a ‘69 block with the shorter deck height, and that I wanted to be at zero deck. He assured me these pistons would give me that. So either I received bad information, or this block has been milled. Anyways, I ended up just ordering thicker head gaskets to compensate for this, since that’s what the machinist recommended. They won’t be delivered for another 5-6 weeks, so that gives me time to paint the block and work on some wiring.
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They won’t be delivered for another 5-6 weeks,
This Coronavirus chit is getting old. My engine guy said he doesn't have an ETA on my engine as he's waiting on rods for the 331.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Got the block, timing cover, and water pump painted this weekend. The paint looks crappy in the pics, but it actually came out pretty good. I should be able to start assembling the motor in 2 weeks.
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
My whole family was home sick with a stomach virus today, so I avoided them and hung out in the shop. I got the new Melling oil pump and ARP oil pump drive shaft installed. The old shaft and new shaft were slightly different. The new shaft seemed to just have more room for adjustment of the retaining ring than the old one did. Just to be safe, I got on ARP’s website, and they only had one part# for the 351w, which matched the one I bought.
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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
A buddy came over to help me degree the camshaft, and something is jacked up with the cam card. It shows it’s for a Chevrolet, and the lift/duration on the card is not right either, yet the serial # and the part # on the cam card matches up with the cam. Not sure what happened here, but looks like I’m calling Lunati on Monday.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well after talking with Lunati, looks like I will be changing the timing again. We retarded the timing of the camshaft 4 degrees to get the 110 degree lobe separation by moving the crank gear from the 0 keyway slot to the “R” keyway slot. Lunati tells me this cam has a 4 degree advance ground into it, so it needs to be on the 0. So, we had it right the first time. This will be an easy fix, now that I know what I’m doing.
 
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