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Discussion Starter #1
I hope everyone is doing ok in these crazy times. I have a 67 Mustang inline 6 engine that I fully rebuilt this winter. Yes, I rebuilt a 6 cylinder engine. This is my first restoration and I wanted to start simple.
See the attached picture of my new engine. The good news, it's all together in, the car, fluids topped off. The bad news, I can't get the car to start. When I turn the key i hear a clicking from the starter, but it won't turn over. I have try jump starting the car as well, but that doesn't help.
I have noticed the wire from the solenoid to the starter get's hot and even smoked a little.
My thought is that the battery is bad. It has sat unhooked in the car all winter. I was working fine last summer/fall.
Because of the current state of affairs in Boston where I live, I am not able to go to a store and have it checked.

Any thoughts on what else could be the problem ?
747719
 

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I have noticed the wire from the solenoid to the starter get's hot and even smoked a little.
My thought is that the battery is bad.

View attachment 747719
I don't think a hot, smoking cable is a sign of a bad battery. It sounds more like your starter is does not have a good ground. It appears you painted the complete engine. Did you remove the paint where the starter mounts to the engine?
You are not allowed to go to one of the big box auto parts stores (AA, AZ, OR) and have your battery tested? Those stores are open here and nobody is telling me I can't go there.
 

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Sounds like a starter issue, either a bad starter or possible starter flywheel mis match that bound up the starter.
 

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Can you put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and rotate the engine? Since it's a new engine, it will be tight, but you should be able to turn the engine this way. If you can't, something is binding. You could also remove the starter and test it with jumper cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advise.
1. I cleaned off the grounds to the starter. I still have the same issue.
2. I am able to turn the engine. That is fine, it's not binding.

I am thinking it still might be a dead battery. It doesn't feel like enough power to really turn it over. Do you think that could be the case. I have jumpers on it from another car and it still won't start ??
 

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Pull the starter and make sure it was seated correctly. Hot wires generally points to a problem with teh starter. Are you sure you hooked up a ground wire from the frame to the motor? Try using jumper cables from ground on teh battery directly to an unpainted surface on the block like the aluminum bell housing...

Please do not feel any inferiority with a 6 cylinder, I love the 6 cylinder cars...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. I will pull the starter and make sure it's seated right. I really think it's the battery and unfortunately I can't go out to a store to have it checked. I will also double check the ground from the frame to the motor. I am sure it's something simple.
Glad you like the inline 6. I think it looks pretty awesome all redone. Can't wait for a nice warm day to take it for a drive.
Any other suggestions, let me know.
 

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Yeah, man! Nothing wrong with the inline six. Should pull like a mule when you get it running.

My cousin had a coupe with an inline six and a three speed manual. That was a great car. She'd zip all over San Diego in her bright yellow Pony passing everything TO INCLUDE the gas stations.
 

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While you're checking grounds check that the negative battery cable has a good clean connection where it bolts to the block under the alternator. Also make sure the connections are clean and tight on thebattery.

It might just be a dead battery. You could try jumping it longer or swapping it out for the one from the car you're using to jump it.
 

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Do you have a multimeter to check battery voltage? Have another battery to swap in just for the startup? You can bench test your starter with a good battery and a pair of jumper cables if it comes down to the starter, but that won't measure how many amps it is pulling like a load test in a store. Good luck!
 

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If the battery cable from the solenoid is getting hot enough to smoke you have plenty of battery voltage and amperage. . Bad grounds will cause less amperage to flow not more. Your problem is too much amperage from the starter trying to rotate and something is preventing it from rotating

1. Engine is locked up and starter cannot turn it. Check to see if engine rotates by hand.

2. I'm not sure what a mismatched flywheel combo would do? When you engage a starter the Bendix has to kick out before the starter starts cranking. If the starter could not kick out all the way because the Bendix teeth could not engage all the way with the flywheel teeth, I'm not sure if it could draw enough amperage to get the cable hot?

3. Bad starter. 99 times out of a 100 when starter goes bad it does not draw excessive amperage.

What you can do is pull the starter loose leaving the cable hooked to it. Hook a jumper cable from the mounting flange to the negative ground on the battery and see if the starter spins when you crank it. That will eliminate the start as the problem.

Are these the same starter and flywheel that was on it before the rebuild?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, same starer and flywheel from before the rebuild. The flywheel was resurfaced. I believe the engine rotates by hand. I will double check that. I am going to pull the starter and try to test to see if it spins. I can eliminate that if it's an issue.
 

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Not always. A starter can spin like crazy with no load and then fall flat on it's face when trying to rotate an engine.
That is correct. Spinning the starter off the car is not a real world test. In this case it just tells us the starter is not frozen up or shorted to ground inside. Its just a test you can do for free.

Are the battery cables large enough. Too small a cable would be the one time that resistance would cause the cable. You can stick jumper cables form the starter cable on the solenoid to the starter terminal and from the battery ground terminal to the a starter bolt. That bypasses the starter cable and ground cable
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I wanted to reply to everyone on this thread. I finally got my rebuilt engine started. I ended up taking apart the starter. It was the original on my 67. I purchased a refurbished starter for $25 and put it in. Still NO start. I went back through all that I did. I had replaced the distributor insides and put in a Pertronix Ignitor to replace the old original unit. As I have mentioned before, this is my first rebuild. I did NOT put the distributor rotor back in. Rookie mistake. I put the rotor back in and the engine started up, BUT it made a loud popping sound. The engine was miss firing. I pulled the distributor and turned it around 180 degrees and now I am in business.
The good news, the engine starts and runs, BUT I can NOT keep the car idling. Here is where I need your help. I can keep the engine running for about one minute, but I have to constantly give the car gas.

What do I need to adjust to get the engine to idle. I tried adjusting the idle screw on the carb. That didn't help. I have not set the timing yet, but can't do that until it idles.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Here is a pic of the finished product.

748753
 

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Nice pretty engine paint. I'm guessing that you painted the area where the starter mounts (as well as where the ground cable connects)? You need to remove the paint down to bare metal so the grounds will have a good connection. This includes any paint on the nose of the starter where it meets the bellhousing and the bellhousing/block plate.
 

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I wanted to reply to everyone on this thread. I finally got my rebuilt engine started. I ended up taking apart the starter. It was the original on my 67. I purchased a refurbished starter for $25 and put it in. Still NO start. I went back through all that I did. I had replaced the distributor insides and put in a Pertronix Ignitor to replace the old original unit. As I have mentioned before, this is my first rebuild. I did NOT put the distributor rotor back in. Rookie mistake. I put the rotor back in and the engine started up, BUT it made a loud popping sound. The engine was miss firing. I pulled the distributor and turned it around 180 degrees and now I am in business.
The good news, the engine starts and runs, BUT I can NOT keep the car idling. Here is where I need your help. I can keep the engine running for about one minute, but I have to constantly give the car gas.

What do I need to adjust to get the engine to idle. I tried adjusting the idle screw on the carb. That didn't help. I have not set the timing yet, but can't do that until it idles.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Here is a pic of the finished product.

View attachment 748753
Did you rebuild the carb as part of your overhaul process?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
to answer above,
The starter is not the issue. The car starts. It will NOT stay running without giving it gas. I need to adjust at idle to keep it running.
I previously rebuilt the carb, but that was before rebuilding the engine. It was working fine before I rebuilt.

Any suggestions on what to adjust, timing, carb, distributor ? to keep the car at a base idle ?
 

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Since you pulled the dizzy, did you set the timing? Is your idle speed set (high enough)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have NOT set the timing. I have to research how to do that. I backed out the idle screw and played with that adjustment. No luck yet to get a baseline idol yet, I just keep stalling out.

If you have any info on timing, let me know.
 
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