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67 restomod garage decoration coupe

969 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Jedidiah55, 
J
I don't know where to start. I have had this project running for awhile now. I tend to just stockpile parts. About half of the items below are installed or have been prepped to dropped in quickly but have not been install to ease installation of other components.

I buy a lot of new things because I don't have any of the components or I just want to upgrade somethings. I am always shopping for a deal.

I got a great deal on a completely tore down, blasted, primed and lizard skinned shell with a couple of nice new parts. I got a freshly machined 302 block for a couple hundred and I can get the power I want out of it. I foolishly keep an excel file of my build cost. I does nothing for keeping me inside my budget. This is going to be my weekend driver for a long time.

I am working out of my finished 2 car garage. I keep the sparks to a minimum. I am doing as much work as I can do. I lack paint and body skill and tools though.

Desired mods
EFI (gas or e85)
disc brakes
adjustable coilovers
power seats (maybe heated)
power windows
power locks
power button start
double din radio with good audio setup
parking brake relocation
might relocate ac controls if I can get my friend to scan ac controls and give me a CAD file
digital gauges
move that damn wiper switch from gauge cluster
Add cruise control and wiper to steering column

outsourced work list needs
body work (flares)
paint
maybe 3d cnc

The engine (I hope to have 400+rwhp)
F1SE OEM Block
347 stroker ~11:1 CR
Scat Crank
Scat Rod
Wiseco custom forged Flat top -6cc
Morel hyd lifters
Custom FTI cam over .600 lift 224/230 dur 111 sep
Afr 185 58cc heads with FTI springs
Scorpion 1.6 roller rocker arms
Rollmaster cam and crank gears
fel-pro 1011-1 (if I blow them, I'll buy some cometic mls)
Holley dist
Melling standard volume/pressure oil pump
Melling pick up
Stock rear sump pan
I have not decided on an intake yet.
Still trying to convince myself not to buy a Hi-ram intake because I'll need a new hood, or to modify the stock one.

Tanks Inc 22 gallon tank with FiTech 340 lph pump and sender (awaiting shipping)

The trans
New MDL T5 kit (new to me and 0 miles been sitting since 2017 or earlier)
I might upgrade some internals in the future and I will redo all the seal and look it over before running it.

The front end
MII setup for jw rod. I wasn't sure about it at first but I have tried to hate it but I cant. It came with the car.
Viking double adjust coilovers. (ok I only like the coilovers)
power unisteer rack
Disc brakes

The rear end
8.8 3.73 gears disc brakes
I have two one out of an explorer already chopped and installed
The other is out of an 04 GT I think its 1.5" wider which I might use if I get fender flares

The interior
TMI sport R black with white stitching everything basically
2018 Mustang seats
stock rear seats
TMI console
Nu-relic front and rear electric windows
Electric trunk release (on backorder)
AAW classic update harness
digital guard dawg push button start/ remote start lock controls
Autoworks power door lock kit

Still need
AC kit
engine acc
ECU
ididit steering column
Intake
gauge cluster (maybe dakota)
more sound deadening/insulation
Paint
Glass
Driveshaft
Fuel line
power steering lines
serpentine setup
Brake Lines
Time and motivation

Pics will be slowly added to this.
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Nos681
2050?…I wouldn’t have the patience.

9 months of winter is bad enough for me.😢

Sounds like a nice ride…if you get it back together. 😜

Am I helping?
Keep us updated.
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Israel
Is there a car involved, or just parts,…….?
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J
When I first got it, I got stopped so many times because I did not have a nut or bolt. So I would stop and buy some. Now I have stockpiled enough crap, indecision and time stop me more than anything.
The thing slowlying me down right now, is my rear driver fender lip. I have spent days trying to reshape it. The first 2 days I made visible progress, but now it appears I am at my limit. I just hate how it looks. It appears to have been rusted in a small section and the fix was weld a flat strip of metal that had a slight bend. Fixing a 3 plane flowing structure with a warped piece of flat strap, and did not even bother with grinding the welds. I am really hung up on it.

Israel said:
Is there a car involved, or just parts,…….?
Click to expand...
I own a mustang shaped storage device on wheels.
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J
9
A few months back
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Motor vehicle
Tire Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Wheel


The day I bought her home (3rd one)
Wood Floor Gas Flooring Hardwood

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood

Gas Font Auto part Metal Fashion accessory

Attachments

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Israel
Welcome, I’ll be following.
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Lizer
LOL, those piles are parts are cute. I better not show mine.
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J
My guest bedroom wall is stacked floor to ceiling.
Those are day 1 piles.
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CJM68GT390
Decision paralysis. It happens to us all.

I know you say the MII front end came with the car, but is it installed? If not, I wouldn't. Lots of discussion on this forum about why. Unless you're removing the shock towers (which you don't have to do with a 347 stroker) there is little, if anything, to be gained.
If you haven't done so already, check out 1) Street or Track, 2) OpenTracker, 3) Global West, 4) Hotchkiss, 5) Mike Mueller, and more. Keep your options open. I know, more options .....
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J
It came installed on the car, but at the time I was considering a coyote swap. I have one laying around but I decided to simplify things and got sbf.
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J
2
Swapped out valve springs to allow to bigger lift. Kit from FTI. Only took half a day.
I started off using a spring compressor that attaches to the rocker stud. However, the assembly was wedged together. When I pushed down on the spring the valve opened and everything I tried did not work. So I returned that and made a trip to harbor frieght. The only option for grabbing something today.
The tool worked great on the first maybe even the second spring but it was flexing under the load. If I had to due it again I would seperate and remove the retainer using the clamp and put in the new piece using the stud mounted compressor.
Light Bottle Wood Gas Auto part

Font Publication Poster Advertising Book cover
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J
Its been an eventful week. Company got bought out (saved really). I found after the same day I bought my wife a Genesis GV70. Today is probably the coldest day of winter which started 2 days ago. I guess 10 months of summer is right around the corner now. My PEX lines are holding up great to being frozen in the morning and thawed in the afternoon and probably back to frozen tonight.

But the thing that matters is my gas tank.
The next two days are family time. Monday, if I have time, I plan on getting hardware to bolt it up. I was think 1" long 3/8" bolts and using seam sealer.

Random bits of info on the gas tank

The sender is bolted in with 5 holes on mine the holes are not evenly spaced out so it only bolts up one way. The sender float arm hit part of the baffles where the arm of the float attached the sender. Mine was setup to have the float on the passenger side this offsets the arm closer to ths rear of the car. I turned mine 180 where the float is on the driver side. This gives a lot more clearence.
The fuel pump had some conflicted instructions as they included two different instruction manuals. I think one version is what gets sent out with the pump when you buy it seperately and the other is what comes with fuel pump and tank kits. It weird that they differ. One says keep the return line uncut as it needs to be as long as possible, the other says 1/4" from the bottom with a 45 degree angle on the cut.
It came with 2 fuel socks even though only the small one would fit. The other is for a stock tank modified to accept the pump.
There were cork and foam gaskets. You have to trim a lot of the pieces. My fuel pump bracket? was also facing the wrong way. I turned it so the turn sat down in the slight curve of the piece.
If anyone need more info on it hit me up.
Go Fuel 340 LPH EFI Fuel Tank Kit, 1969-1970 Ford Mustang part number 58013

Automotive lighting Trunk Wood Automotive exterior Bumper
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J
Lately, I've been playing with my valvetrain trying to figure out what length pushrods to get. So I tighten down the nut on the rocker arm by hand until the pushrod just starts to push down on the hyd lifter. Then afr recommends 1/4 to a 1/2 turn for pre load. I twist it over a 1/4 more then turned the engine a few times. If I had to guess a torque on the rocker arm lock nut, I would guess less than 5ft/lb because I can loosen it with my hand. Did I mess something up or is that correct?

If that is right then 6.250 is looking like a winner.
Eye Automotive tire Camera lens Tire Wheel
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J
2
My heads are on and torqued down but I had a few issues that slowed me. One of my arp washers wasn't machined. They put a chamfer on one side.
This guy slipped through
Finger Thumb Household hardware Jewellery Electric blue

This is what its supposed to look like
Automotive tire Finger Household hardware Rim Electric blue

The only question they asked me when I reached out was what's your address. ARP overnighted me a washer. I didn't even imply I was in any hurry, just asked for a replacement.
One other issue I had was finding a sealant in stores for my head bolts. No one carries anything in store buy amazon has it.
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