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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some advice on what steering box I should get . I have an early 67 with the long shaft box and the tag on the box reads "SMB M 6L15 B". The car was originally power steering and I converted it over to manual. I would love to get a flaming river box, but cannot come close to affording it.
So, my questions are:
1. What box should I get for the easiest steering effort?
2. Where do I get it?
My budget is around $250, and I have to keep the long shaft because I cannot afford to buy extra parts. I also noticed that the box that is on the car now requires significantly more effort to turn then my previous mustang with manual steering. That is why I am wondering what box I should look for. Also, rebuilding the box that is on the car is not an option.
Thanks for the help
 

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Are you sure that your old box needs replacing? I also have an early '67 with the long shaft. I only recently became aware that they need to be greased. My box was very dry and took a whole cartridge of grease to fill up. The steering effort was improved alot by doing this. There is a link on here that describes how to fo this in detail.
You can also get one of opentrackers roller idler arms to help with steering effort if your box turns out to be ok.
There is also a vmf member here that rebuilds gear boxes for a reasonable price.
 

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I just found this.......
Check Stangersite.com . Not only does he rebuild steering boxes for a good price ($130), he gives a lot of info for doing it yourself. Search his website for more info. A step by step write-up would be a neat idea, though, and maybe someone else has already done so.
Daniel
 

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mark_3x67 said:
I just found this.......
Check Stangersite.com . Not only does he rebuild steering boxes for a good price ($130), he gives a lot of info for doing it yourself. Search his website for more info. A step by step write-up would be a neat idea, though, and maybe someone else has already done so.
Daniel
+1
 

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Side note, keep in mind the smaller the steering wheel you have the more effort it'll take to turn. Don't know if you have the stock steering wheel or aftermarket smaller one.
 

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Power steering boxes are also faster ratio than the manual, which translates into greater turning effort required when the pwr strng has been eliminated. A smaller steering wheel aggravates the situation as do larger tires up front.

An increase in tire pressure might help.
 

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The manual gear is a 19:1 ratio while the
power steering gear is 16:1 ratio.
The manual gear would help your steering effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I greased the box about a year ago when I switched over to manual. Took about the same amount. There is a huge dead spot in the turning. I know the tag on the box is for a a manual & power box, so I am not sure what the ratio is. Rebuilding is not an option because in the course of changing over to manual I snapped off a bolt and had to redrill the hole with the box on the car. Probably not the smartest thing to do, but the best option at the time. Unfortunately the new hole is off the original spot and held in place with a grade 8 nut and bolt. I guess it is possible to rebuild, but that still doesn't really get the steering effort to where I want it.
Thanks for the help, but I am mostly wondering where I will find the best prices and what box to go with. How many turns is the 19:1 box and the 16:1 box?
Thanks again
 

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I have a manual steering box out of my 65 which I pulled, detailed, cleaned out the innards and re-packed it with fresh grease. The exterior has a great silvery grey paint job on it, the top plate is polished bare metal, and the tag is clean and attached to the box. The shaft rotates smoothly with no flat spots or gritty feel. The tag reads, top line - HCC space AT; second line 5C05C This is out of a 65 with a I6. According to my Ford Parts Interchange Manual (at pg. 85), the HCC-AT box fits all manual steering mustangs 1964.5 - 1967, which includes both V8 and I6. The box has on it, however, an I6 pitman arm. This can be removed and your V8 pitman arm installed. The difference between the two is the diameter of the opening at the end of the pitman arm, where the stud for the ball joint mounts, as the V8 ball joint is larger, I am told.

I don't need it anymore as I added the unisteer rack and pinion. I only need a shaft from a no good box, that I can trim down to fit the unisteer rack set up. If you can use this steering box, by swapping on your V8 pitman arm, you are welcome to it, for $50 plus your old steering shaft, cut off just above the box (Approx 35 and 3/4 inches long). I'd like to see this part go to someone who will use it, as I put a lot of time into detailing the box.

If interested, send me a private post.

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks all, consider this topic closed. 70sportsroof is helping me out with the box from his 65, and helping me out with the install. Thanks Ken
 
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