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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all

Starting my first build ever, 1968 Mustang Coupe. Originally a 289 car but came with a 302. Currently have everything stripped out except the rear end.

Previous owner began taking out the floor pans but left in the transmission tunnel.

I've been stripping the paint down myself (PITA).

I ordered a driver side torque box, driver floor pan, both full rear quarters and wheel houses to start

Not in a rush to finish it.
 

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Looks like a good start- I would humbly suggest 1. safety glasses 2. Tetanus shot- (you knew that anyway right?) But it looks better than many I have seen- Good luck- what are the plans - resto or mod or little of both?
 

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Cool project. My best advice is take your time, do it right, and most importantly Have Fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thinking of doing a mix of resto/mod.

Thanks, I've looked at lots and this one seemed to be the best start for me at least
 

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Go to Opentracker and get a better full suspension kit. It will cost more but much better. I did my 67 with the stage 2 kit and it was night and day. Also with the Shelby drop
 

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It looks like a basic stock type replacement kit to me. If you are looking for a performance stock type suspension, I would shop for genuine MOOG brand tie rods and Eaton for the springs. If you go that route, call Eaton direct, they are in Detroit, and talk to their tech guy and let him know what your plans are as far as engine size, horse power, desired ride height (stock, higher, lower), and let him tell you the correct springs to get. You can buy them direct from them or take the part number he'll give you, to your favorite supplier that sells Eaton Springs like: NPD, CJ, etc.... If you price out genuine Moog and Eaton parts, the cost will be similar to the kit you linked to. That kit doesn't say, or I missed it, who the manufacturer is of the components are. They could be and more than likely are imported components made who knows where by who knows who with who knows what quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It looks like a basic stock type replacement kit to me. If you are looking for a performance stock type suspension, I would shop for genuine MOOG brand tie rods and Eaton for the springs. If you go that route, call Eaton direct, they are in Detroit, and talk to their tech guy and let him know what your plans are as far as engine size, horse power, desired ride height (stock, higher, lower), and let him tell you the correct springs to get. You can buy them direct from them or take the part number he'll give you, to your favorite supplier that sells Eaton Springs like: NPD, CJ, etc.... If you price out genuine Moog and Eaton parts, the cost will be similar to the kit you linked to. That kit doesn't say, or I missed it, who the manufacturer is of the components are. They could be and more than likely are imported components made who knows where by who knows who with who knows what quality.

On the site it says it's made by grab a track, made in USA ...has anyone had dealings with that company or with Mustang plus
 

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On the site it says it's made by grab a track, made in USA ...has anyone had dealings with that company or with Mustang plus
I have had Grab-A-Trak stuff from Mustangs Plus on my 66 Mustang since 1993, and I have enjoyed all the components on my car. I did all black polyurethane bushings and put 90° grease zerks on my upper control arms to make them easier to lube. I went with 620 coils and GT springs, it leveled the car nicely, and they have held up well for spirited daily driving til I got a truck in 1998, and semi-daily to weekly driving since then.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got the parts from Mustang plus yesterday, got the lower control arms out no problem, trying to get the new ones in is a pain. Anyone have tips for putting the new ones in?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Been a while, been pretty sick for the last 2 weeks.

Today I went at the door and found a BUNCH of bondo underneath the paint, boy is that a pain!!
 

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Cool project. On a side note, are you a photographer? Or is that aperture just from an iPhone's portrait mode :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I had a guy come by today to check and give me a rough quote of the work I'm asking to be done; install floor pans, driver torque box, replace both rear quarters, he gave me a rough budget of $8000 for about 60 hours of work


What does everyone think about that?
 

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I had a guy come by today to check and give me a rough quote of the work I'm asking to be done; install floor pans, driver torque box, replace both rear quarters, he gave me a rough budget of $8000 for about 60 hours of work


What does everyone think about that?

You said you're not in a hurry to finish so why don't you learn to do the work yourself? You'll be able to buy some nice tools for way less than $8k. I personally think, $8k for only the floor, the torque box, and two quarters is a LOT of money. Plus that's just the start. From my own experience on my 67, you're going to find a lot more that needs replaced based on the photos and if you have a guy that's charging you $8k for 60 hours, you're going to go bankrupt. $133 an hour seems like a lot of money. That can't be the going rate but I could be wrong. Just my opinion. Another way to go is to go out and buy one of those already built unibodies for $19k and don't worry about rust at all. I can just about guarantee you're going to be paying this guy more than $19k by the time he's done repairing your existing unibody. I certainly thought several times I should have just bought one of those and saved myself a lot of headache! Good luck!
 

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I had a guy come by today to check and give me a rough quote of the work I'm asking to be done; install floor pans, driver torque box, replace both rear quarters, he gave me a rough budget of $8000 for about 60 hours of work


What does everyone think about that?
I would suggest posting this question on autobody101.com and get an idea from many guys from across the county that are in the business of doing classic car body restoration work for customers. Some have full blown restoration shops with a crew of technicians and some are guys working from a shop at their home.
 

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I also suggest buying some tools and learning to do it yourself. You’ll feel more satisfaction and you’ll be money ahead.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Do it yourself. Body shops generally charge less than car dealerships which charge roughly 100 bucks an hour(and generally you have to ride them to do decent work!). 8 grand will buy you 1.5 other 68 coupes!:wink:
 
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