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(actually Slim Jr now)
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Discussion Starter #1
My 68 Mustang 289 2V code C with power steering has factory A/C. I've restored/maintained my Stang as a summer driver. Haven't used the factory A/C for many years, decided to remove the compressor for easier access/service of other engine area stuff.

I have the Ford factory shop manual, the Jim Osborrn assembly manuals and the Jim Osborn exploded view illustration manual. My '68 is a Feb 1968 Dearborn Stang. I have removed the magnetic clutch per shop manual instruction. Have removed the idler pulley and brackets.

Would appreciate any help or exploded views/pics of how to get this thing removed. The Osborn repo manuals show the compressor bolted to the base bracket with 4 bolts. Two are accesable. The bracket is attached to the engine...one bolt is accessable.

Non of the bolts or nuts are stuck, frozen or rusted. Any suggestion on how to get the darn thing off?


Slim
 

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I have a '68 about that same age that had power steering and A/C as well. That mounting systems is actually what I'm putting on my '67 to give it A/C again.

That bracket under the compressor is a bear! There is one long stud that mounts the power steering too that goes through the A/C bracket to the head if I remember. That and a hidden bolt into the head as well that is really hard to see.

Then four bolts up through the bracket into the bottom of the compressor. Plus a couple you probably took out the side when you removed the idler pulley?

Does this sound like what you are looking at?

Here is a picture from the other side of the setup I'm re-using..



Good luck. It was fun enough to get that off an old motor on an engine stand. I bet it is really fun in the car!

I think with an power steering car w/o A/C you will need a spacer to makeup for not having the A/C bracket there.
 

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(actually Slim Jr now)
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yup that's it! Looking through the manuals it looks like 67 set up/brackets etc. I can't imagine how to remove the compressor with the radiator in the way. Got a zillion ratchets, swivels, extensions yada yada can't see how to get the compressor removed with the engine in the car. Had my Stang since April '77, obviousely I've never removed the compressor or power steering pump!

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Slim/Tom
 

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I think the second bolt into the head is actually a short stud if I remember?? I think you will have to get the power steering loose and then remove the long stud completely from the block. Then if you could get to that nut on the stud under the bracket?? It should pull frontwards a bit to clear the short stud into the head.

That's assuming you have got the other brackets and idlers off.

That is one big compressor isn't it.

I'm probably one of the only nuts that is looking to replace the old York. I'm trying to keep the motor looking pretty close to stock. I found they still make those and use them in various over the road trucks.
 

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You can get them at a few places new and remans. Classic Auto Air has them and the fitting, hoses, whatever you need. I used one on the 70 CJ that is my avatar. Pumps great. By the way, I have installed and repaired AC for years and if you don't know, you HAVE to replace the drier when doing the job. Not replacing the drier is like changing your oil without changing the filter.
 

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There are supposed to be three bolts and one stud attaching the pump to the bracket. They are accessible with a combination wrench. You won't be able to see them, you have to do it by feel. The pump bracket also acts as a spacer for the PS pump bracket. You'll have to buy a non-AC type spacer.

That said, I think it's foolish to remove the AC. Some hot global warming- er, climate change- ah, er, el Niño day you'll wish you had it, and of course losing it reduces the value of the car over $1000.

I never had any trouble accessing stuff on the engine with AC installed. This is not my car (I'll spare you mine, which is identical except for crud and dirt) but this is exactly what I have to deal with, including the solid lifter adjstment:

 

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(actually Slim Jr now)
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Discussion Starter #7
22gt and all. I appreceate especially the help from Heap64. As you all can see from my profile and sig pic I've had my 68 vert since '77. Have delt with the compressor for 34 years. Done several tune ups and various other work. Just decided to remove the compressor. The shop manual made it sound easy. Remove the clutch as described...like they often said in school...QED...Quite Easily Done. Now remove mounting bolts...#&*@#+&$# right! NSED...Not So Easily Done!
 

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Don't believe everything you read. There is absolutely no reason to remove the clutch from the compressor to remove the compressor. You can even remove the compressor without losing the freon charge. Just run the check balls all the way in, and detach the service valves from the compressor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Don't believe everything you read. There is absolutely no reason to remove the clutch from the compressor to remove the compressor. You can even remove the compressor without losing the freon charge. Just run the check balls all the way in, and detach the service valves from the compressor.

There are 4 bolts holding the compressor to the main bracket. I'd love to take those out. Then there's the top stabelizer. The adjusting idler can be left attached. Problem is the power steering pump makes it very difficult to get at two of the four bolts.


Slim
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There are supposed to be three bolts and one stud attaching the pump to the bracket. They are accessible with a combination wrench. You won't be able to see them, you have to do it by feel. The pump bracket also acts as a spacer for the PS pump bracket. You'll have to buy a non-AC type spacer.

That said, I think it's foolish to remove the AC. Some hot global warming- er, climate change- ah, er, el Niño day you'll wish you had it, and of course losing it reduces the value of the car over $1000.

I never had any trouble accessing stuff on the engine with AC installed. This is not my car (I'll spare you mine, which is identical except for crud and dirt) but this is exactly what I have to deal with, including the solid lifter adjstment:


You are so right! Mine is a little different. There are four bolts attaching the compressor to the bracket. I can see/feel that a person like you that has experience removing the compressor could do it without removing the clutch. That part of the job was easy, glad I did it because makes those four attaching bolts just a little easier!

Using a box end wrench had no problem loosening the two front bolts and the third one toward the front fender. The back bolt toward the engine is a SOB, can touch it but may need one of those C shaped box end manifold wrenches.

I appreciate the help and encouragement. Trust me, I don't try to do these things with my handyman tool kit. I'm patient and don't hesitate to buy a special tool for one job/project. I keep my McMaster Carr cat favorite on line along with other tool cats. Nice thing about McMaster is they're in Chicago (60 miles from me). Typically if I order something today I get it at my door tomorrow!
 

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Slim, The bolt next to the valve cover is the biggest pain to remove to get the compressor off the mounting bracket.
I use a crowsfoot wrench, it works great to get that darn bolt out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The 67 style AC setup in a 68 is not uncommon.
The 67 style, on mine looks like something designed for a Peterbuit Semi Tractor! I swear you could hang the car from the idler pulley!

The later 68 style (and later) is all formed heavy sheet steel. The 67 style is forgings and heavy steel castings!


Slim
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Slim, The bolt next to the valve cover is the biggest pain to remove to get the compressor off the mounting bracket.
I use a crowsfoot wrench, it works great to get that darn bolt out.

Could you describe the crowfoot wrench? I'm thinking maybe an open end crowfoot put onto a small 3/8" drive socket breaker bar.


Slim
 

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Yes you have the right idea, But the ones I have has a 1/2 in drive hole in them.
I use them mostly in repairing hyd lines on large equipment, but they come in handy doing other jobs.

Ps, remove the other 3 bolts first and loosen the last one then you can turn it by hand.
Yes it is working blind but with the other bolts removed first you can wiggle the compressor
so the bolt turns freely to remove it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Yes you have the right idea, But the ones I have has a 1/2 in drive hole in them.
I use them mostly in repairing hyd lines on large equipment, but they come in handy doing other jobs.

Ps, remove the other 3 bolts first and loosen the last one then you can turn it by hand.
Yes it is working blind but with the other bolts removed first you can wiggle the compressor
so the bolt turns freely to remove it.


Hooray! It's off! Did just what you suggested. Just used a 9/16" box end and patience.
Thanks Heap64 and 22GT for your help.
 
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