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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As some of you may know, motivation is contagious. Thanks to Jon Kehayias for his updates and motivating me to get to work on my own car in a similar fashion. Hopefully a few more progress pics will add to the enthusiasm.

I've had my car tore apart for the better part of 3 years now with no significant progess. I'd work on it here or there, but usually progress was slow due to not having the right tools to do the job. I had previously tried blasting right from the beginning, which with the blaster I have, is not very effective.

I recently got the green light from the wife to get this thing painted this summer, so the goal is to have it completely stripped to bare metal before July and any structural metal work done before it goes to the painter.

I'm now deep into stripping it, and am using a wire cup to cut the grime, an 80 grit sanding disc to cut the paint, and then cleaning it off to bare metal with the blasting. I think this technique has got to be 10 times faster than what I was doing before, or at least feels that way.

I had covered the bare metal I blasted before with a thin layer of rattle can to protect it while it sat, and am now blasting that off again too.

I think another couple hours of cleaning and I should be completely done from the firewall forward. I'm a bit anal about getting it all clean, so trust me, anything that isn't bare yet will be before it gets painted.

I've also been digging at the seam sealer on the cowl seam and that is tough stuff. The blaster won't touch it, I've been heating it and scraping it...very slow progress. Any tips on the seam sealer would be appreciated.





 

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nice progress! yea, the seam sealer is strong stuff. good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have to say I'm pretty pleased with the condition of the metal up front.

14 years ago I stripped the engine compartment with aerosol paint stripper and painted it with rustoleum red primer and rustoleum semi-gloss black. Nothing changed in 14 years other than some paint chips.

I've been thinking a lot about how to paint this when I'm done, and if you think about how these cars were painted at the factory, and then abused over the years, I think that a lot of us resort to severe overkill when it comes to preventing future rust considering how well we prep, paint, and take care of our cars once they are done. There's no reason ANY primer and paint system shouldn't do just fine for a restored and garage kept car, even if its driven. My car was a daily driver for 10 of past 14 years, and kept outside ungaraged for about 8 of the 10 years it was driven. It held up fine even with spray bomb paint.

I'm going to go with zero rust this time, mostly because I know it will sand easier than the Rustoleum, and then top coat with Eastwood's chassis black or Krylon. I'm going to try the chassis black first and if I don't like it, I'll go with the Krylon.
 

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looks great is it just me or does this place make you work on your car more? I see everyone else getting stuff done then i feel bad until i get something done :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Almost ready to tip the car over and do the bottom!!

Need to make another parts run to Lowes for some bolts, otherwise the home made rotisserie would be assembled by now...



Main body of the rotisserie is 3" tube, with some misc 3.5" tube for sliding over the 3". Total invested is still under $500.

Dad is welding some 5" castors onto some more 3.5" pieces (to slip over the T shaped base, 3 castors each), so the rotisserie can easily be converted from stationary to mobile and back.

For what I need to do, it will be stationary.
 

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Looking good!

What color are you thinking about?

Some spray can paint can hold up real well, sometimes though its actually cheaper to buy a gallon of paint and use a spray gun. I remember before I did mine reading through that topic somewhere on here...
 

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Looking Good. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Gameplan for the car is Highland Green exterior, gold C-stripe, and parchment deluxe interior.

I'm painting the structure of the car with Eastwood rust encapsulator to seal everything, and I'm going to do the engine compartment with epoxy chassis black. If I don't like the look I'll sand it and topcoat with Krylon.
 

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sigtauenus said:
Gameplan for the car is Highland Green exterior, gold C-stripe, and parchment deluxe interior.
Very nice combo. Have you considered the slightly darker 'dark highland green' aka Highland Green Metallic used on the 2001 Bullitt and 2008 Bullitt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Actually, I hadn't considered that, but now that you mention it, I do like the darker colors.

Unfortunately the darker the color the more I will likely end up paying the body man.
 

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Money comes and goes. The right mustang is forever. If you have to pay your body man a little more to paint it the way you want don't let that stand in the way of having the car the way you want it.
I'm glad to see you making progress. I've been doing more to mine lately also after procrastinating several times the past year and hope to get it on the road sometime this spring or summer. Keep up the good work!
 

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Which parchment are you planning? The '67 or '68? 67 is more cream, 68 is more greyish. If you haven't seen a dark green mustang with a Saddle interior, thats a great option as well!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Making progress, found a couple small issues to deal with.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm finally done blasting on the unibody. Most of the back end will be changed out, passenger quarter, trunk floors, taillight panel. Unfortunately most of that is solid metal, but the time spent to take it apart and clean up the solid pieces to reuse will cost more than just installing new metal. Most of those pieces were already changed 15 years ago so I'm not losing original metal anyhow.

I went ahead and drilled out the cowl, and I'm really glad I did. The cowl is still solid, but it has some rust pitting. I got it blasted clean, treated with picklex 20, and will give it 2 coats of Eastwood rust encapsulator and then paint it with primer and Highland green topcoat before welding it back up.

Right now I'm brushing on the rust encapsulator everywhere that will not be seen once the car is assembled. After spending literally a day and half cleaning up the blasting mess out of my garage, I'm not ready for overspray just yet. After I'm done welding the cowl, floor patches and a couple other misc areas, I'll hopefully be ready to use the gun and give this thing a good coat of primer.




 

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Sam,
You are making some great progress on your car! If you want it, I have a repro taillight panel for a 68 fastback in my garage you can have since it sounds like you are replacing yours.

Are you going to shoot the primer yourself or pay a shop to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm going to shoot it myself. I have the equipment just need to revisit how I tarp off the garage.

Let me know when you want to get that floor panel installed.

BTW, how is it you have an extra taillight panel? They are the same for coupe and fb.
 

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I bought the tail light panel for the 68 fastback that I sold. The coupe doesn't appear to need one, so this one is just sitting here. If you want it, just let me know.

SWMBO leaves Tuesday for her deployment so next weekend I'll continue working on the car and I'll be available if you need any help as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm just about ready to drop this thing back off the rotisserie!!!!

Its amazing how quick these things go back together.

 
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