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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

My 68 Fastback has typical rust and holes in my floorboards. The center section is perfectly fine, however, the front and rear section will require replacement or patching. What floor pan replacement options would everyone recommend:

1. Short front and rear sections
2. Full length pans per side
3. Complete floor pan, including center section

I would like to maintain a factory appearance, which is why I am leaning towards option 3. However, my tunnel is perfectly fine. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Best Regards,
Ed
 

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You are going to get allot of opinions on this. The best option would be # 3 but it's also more expensive. all three are going to be allot of work, but the finished product will be determined on what option you go with and how good your welding skills are, should you decide to weld in sections.

Good luck with your decision and please post pics.
 

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#3 and you're good for another 40 years as long as your cowl is good. That said, sometimes a patch will net you a good result with less work.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses rarebreed and brianstrange. I still do not know which option to pick. My Fastback is a true GT S-code. I would like the body to be as close to original as possible. Does replacing rusted sheet metal affect the value of an original S-code Fastback? As mentioned earlier, the center section of my floor is in terrific condition. Unfortunately, my actual floor boards either are getting pretty thin or have a couple 1" diameter rust holes in them. I am looking for a quality period correct restoration, in terms of the body. Thanks again.
 

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Does replacing rusted sheet metal affect the value of an original S-code Fastback? .
As opposed to leaving them rusty? it can only increase the value if done properly.

[/QUOTE] As mentioned earlier, the center section of my floor is in terrific condition.[/QUOTE]


It almost always is as the water puddles on the bottom.

[/QUOTE] I am looking for a quality period correct restoration, in terms of the body. Thanks again.[/QUOTE]

option 3 is probably the best if more than 2 areas need replacing
 

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hi ed
i have wrestled with this issue myself for my K code '65 FB.
the purists would say to use as much original metal as possible,
and, if the metal is to far gone,
then the ideal solution is to harvest original metal
from a similiar car ideally built at the same factory!
my major issue with this philosophy
is that i am uncomfortable harvesting metal off another cool mustang
so...i'm going to (i did) buy a dynacorn comple floor and trunk area piece (2300)
and am going to install this.
then, will cut out and replace this floor with as much original metal
from my K kar as possible!
back to your original Q
i would think that if you did an adequate job
of welding in patches
the value of your car would definitely increase
iowa
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for your replies kdrop and Iowa. It seems option 3 is the way to go, other than the price affiliated with it. How noticeable are the seams when replacing with the short front and rear pans?
 

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if you do careful and meticulous work
very little
iowa
 

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I personally are a firm believer in leaving as much original metal as possible. This will depend on your fabrication and welding abilities. I left the center hump in mine as it was good also. It may also help to keep the car "square" to some extent if you do not have a means of doing that while you cut out and weld back in....
Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I agree Tom. I would like to keep as much original metal as well, but this means a non-factory floor pan appearance. I will consult with my body shop as well to see what they think. I will keep everyone posted. Thank you for all of your help!

Best,
Ed
 
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