Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm swapping out the 6cyl/3sp drivetrain in my '68 coupe with a 428CJ/4sp combo. How I came to get this car is detailed here ( 68 Rescue) as is the bulk of the plan. I'm shifting progress to a build thread as I got "Kitty" running and I've turned my attention to the upgrades.

So here we go!

I bought this '70 9" out of a Cougar from West Coast Classic Cougar. Nice place, lots of stuff. The housing was knarley with moss and fungus growing on it:

796725


So I spent sometime with a wire wheel, Scotch Bright, laquer thinner, and primer

796726
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Over the course of a week, I got the housing painted, along with getting the backing plates done, and turning and painting the original drums. You can see the driver's rear sway bar, and shock mount in this pic. I'm installing a '70 Mach1 rear sway bar to the car:

796727


Picture doesn't do the housing justice, as its pretty nice. Painted with Rustoleum gloss black engine paint, high heat and oil resistant
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just finished the 9" center section a few days ago. The case is a '67 unit, small bearing. The 31 spline ford traction lock was out of an F-150...I acquired all this stuff 2 decades ago. The 3.25 ring and pinion are OEM '69 Ford items, out of my '69 Mustang (now has a 3.70). I used Yukon Gear clutches in the TL unit, and the side and spider gears were in great condition.

796745


796748


796750
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I set the gears up and the tight end of the lash...I don't like noise. :)

Not proud of the color on the yoke, but hey, it's a driver. it will be dirty soon...

796751
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,918 Posts
Read your original post. Great find! Great car.

I love what you're doing to the car. The only thing I'd do differently (and this is just me) is to put on aluminum heads and intake plus a roller cam.
When I added the TKO there was very little metal work necessary. Took about 1/4" off one side of the opening and flatten one seam in the tunnel. Otherwise a bolt-in.

Are you considering adding the extra shock tower bracing that was added for the big blocks? Some think that this is really important.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I’m not ditching the CJ heads for weight, but am considering an intake. The only one that interests me would be to run the Performer RPM, and those seem to be unobtainable at the moment. I think I’ll haul the weight.
796787


I'm welding in the Trans Am dog bones in the shock towers, using an export brace, and considering a Monte Carlo bar. Doing the shelby drop too, though that’s not a strength mod.

Also going to run a flat tappet comp dual energy 219/[email protected] .50 cam ground on 110degrees lobe sep. Should still idle decent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I washed the car for the first time...trying to evaluate my way forward with the sand and buff. For grins I layed a possible wheel combo next to the car; its a 15x6.5 KH steelie that came off my '65 Galaxie wagon. The Galaxie wears 15x7 TTDs now, and these rare wheels wont be going back on the Galaxie. But they could go on Kitty with these dog dish caps I got a month ago:

796786
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I sat down and did some math on the steel wheels, and I think I can get 255 60 15s in the back, and maybe 235 60 15s in the front. Here’s my logic:

KH 15x6.5 rim has 4” of backspace. This leaves just 2.5” pushing out toward the fender lip. The rim centerline is .75” inboard from the brake drum/hub.

TTD 15x7 rim has 3.75” of backspace. This leaves 3.25” pushing out toward the fender lip. The rim centerline is .25” inboard of the brake drum/hub. Guys have successfully run 235 60 15s on the back with this rim.

The 68 Shelby 10 spoke 15x7 wheel has 4.25” of backspace. This leaves 2.75” out toward the fender lip. The rim centerline is .75” inboard from the brake drum/hub. A friend has a 67 GT 289 4sp vert with these wheels and 245 60 15s, no rolled lip, no rubbing. His car is lowered 2”.

Theres less than 1” width difference between a 235 and a 255 tire, and based on the above math, and my willingness to roll the fender lips, I think I got it.

Of course there are no guarantees in life or wheel clearance with production variance. We‘ll all find out because I’m gonna attempt it. ;)

And now for something completely different, some swag arrived today; 5 leaf reverse eye springs, Koni adjustable for 4 corners, 600# front coils, and new perches.

797771


Koni adjustables...I can’t wait!

797772
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Today was productive. Started out really productive, then I hit a tool and parts wall...eventually some solved but cost me some time. I wanted to have the whole assembly done, but I lost time hunting down some new Gascecinch when I discovered the can I had was solidified rubber. The I could not find my square...required because I need to cut my new 31 spline axles as they are cut-to-fit. Also forgot I need the copper washers between the pumpkin and the studs.

Brakes are all done on the 9” housing both sides, seals in the housing. New Motorcraft hardware, plus Porterfield shoes :

797870


Homemade seal driver has served me well for 11 years...

797872


Got the rear tires mounted to the rims. 255 60 15 Mickey Thompson ET Street. I think I’ll call these the “baller” rims.

797873

797874

...

797875


I might try to get the axle cutting done tomorrow before church, but that’s risky for me with the rest of the family ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I bought “cut to fit” 9” axles from Dr Diff for Kitty. Loaded with bearings, screw in studs, and retainer brackets, it seemed like a good idea. I questioned my decision after cutting the first axle, but I went and bought a new cutting wheel and progress was better during the cut. Still took a bit of time as the axle material is hard...but it was manageable. So I’d likely do it again.

heres the cut axle:

798513
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Victory!! I say again, VICTORY!!

Kitty moved under her own power today for the first time since 1982. Thanks to replacing the front wheel cylinders, and 30 minutes of the lovely wife helping me bleed them, I drove her around the block.

200/6 fired right up, clutch worked nicely, trans shifted just as you’ld expect from a 57,000 mile car.

Moving under her own power is significant, because now I can drive it 12 miles to my upholstery guy who’ll put on a new vinyl roof, headliner, glass, and redo the front buckets.

I‘m stoked!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
604 Posts
Read your original post. Great find! Great car.

I love what you're doing to the car. The only thing I'd do differently (and this is just me) is to put on aluminum heads and intake plus a roller cam.
When I added the TKO there was very little metal work necessary. Took about 1/4" off one side of the opening and flatten one seam in the tunnel. Otherwise a bolt-in.

Are you considering adding the extra shock tower bracing that was added for the big blocks? Some think that this is really important.
67 mustangs FE cars never had extra bracing. They are stitch welded around the control arm reinforcement. I ran a bead all the way around and on the outside at the frame rails and ground the weld down so they weren't noticeable. The reinforcement kits aren't shaped well and cause issues with header clearance on the 67-8 cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I’m back at it after getting crushed at work for the last 6 weeks. During that time I decided to go with a TKX 5sp. It arrived a week ago, while I was on business travel, so finally unboxed it last night. Here are some hero shots:

805661


805662
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
158 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Never underestimate the capacity of Chinese manufacturing to get it wrong. This heavy duty engine stand was not drilled far enough out to accommodate an FE. Clearly, people buy the heavy duty stand for American big blocks. No problem, I’ll fix it for them:

806216



Worked like a champ:

806219


806220


Ready to pop the heads off to clean them up, new springs and seals, and inspect the cylinders.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top