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I've had a few gremlins with the power steering system on the 68. I read most hate it, but it's my wife's car. She's a purest. I replaced the entire suspension and power steering with Moog / Lares parts. When I pulled the power steering down, I noticed the pin was flush with the drag link. Learned the hardway that it's hardened steel. Which is a shame, because the information is all over this forum. Live and learn. I put a spot weld on the drag link / power control valve, but have started developing some issues as of late. The power ram's first washer is being pushed back over the rod. Pretty clear I'll need to drill a new hole or replace the drag link. I have the power assist drop bracket btw. I was told this could be the problem with my power ram. Has anyone faced something similar? Long tube headers on the car. I found a few power steering drag links for $100. What would you guys recommend? Spend the bill, order, and wait or Take the drag link to a local machine shop? I could do what a few online have done and let a pro drill a new hole. I started drilling with an 18v dewalt, but stopped after realizing the amount of time that would be invested. I was getting nowhere real fast. I have a 1/2" drill I could use (purchased for my first engine rebuild. Dingle ball hone), but not sure if it would make a difference. Should I buy a bench drill ($50 - $130) or let a machine shop handle it? Maybe I was using the wrong type of drill bit? I read I need an 1/8'' hole in line on the end side of the original pin.

Also, just to verify measurements. I measure 4 7/8" from the control valve stud the Tie rod end center?
 

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I drilled in 180 degrees from the opposite side and drove the pin out with a small pin punch.
The roll pins are very hard and even a carbide drill has an issue with an interrupted cut because the pin is not solid.
I did use drill press and clamped the drag link in a “V” block making very sure the hole was perfectly at 180 degrees.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I drilled in 180 degrees from the opposite side and drove the pin out with a small pin punch.
The roll pins are very hard and even a carbide drill has an issue with an interrupted cut because the pin is not solid.
I did use drill press and clamped the drag link in a “V” block making very sure the hole was perfectly at 180 degrees.
That's a great idea! Does your 68 vert have long tube headers? Have you had any issues with the drop bracket for the Ram?
 

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I had tri-y headers with a drop for the ram but since have upgraded to EPAS.
Never had any problems with the drop bracket.
 

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I've had a few gremlins with the power steering system on the 68. I read most hate it, but it's my wife's car. She's a purest.
I'm with her on this one. The Bendix power steering is excellent, using the same valve technology as military aircraft of the period. The Corvette had the same valve from 65-82, and I don't hear Corvette people complaining about hating Corvette steering.

The real problem is usually poor or no maintenance, such as missing clamp around the valve (allows the tubes to flex, destroying the seals) and improper or missing hose bracket. Properly set up, you can expect decades of service from this system.


I replaced the entire suspension and power steering with Moog / Lares parts. When I pulled the power steering down, I noticed the pin was flush with the drag link. Learned the hardway that it's hardened steel. Which is a shame, because the information is all over this forum. Live and learn. I put a spot weld on the drag link / power control valve, but have started developing some issues as of late. The power ram's first washer is being pushed back over the rod. Pretty clear I'll need to drill a new hole or replace the drag link. I have the power assist drop bracket btw.
The drop brackets are typically too long, giving much more clearance than needed. Cutting it shorter, and welding it to the frame rail are important. I prefer to use exhaust that clears the stock bracket.

If the pushrod on the power cylinder is penetrating the washer, that's not the valve's fault.

I was told this could be the problem with my power ram. Has anyone faced something similar? Long tube headers on the car. I found a few power steering drag links for $100.

The center link on a 68 has no moving parts. Proper rebuild of the valve assembly is the cure for valve problems.

What would you guys recommend? Spend the bill, order, and wait or Take the drag link to a local machine shop? I could do what a few online have done and let a pro drill a new hole. I started drilling with an 18v dewalt, but stopped after realizing the amount of time that would be invested. I was getting nowhere real fast. I have a 1/2" drill I could use (purchased for my first engine rebuild. Dingle ball hone), but not sure if it would make a difference. Should I buy a bench drill ($50 - $130) or let a machine shop handle it? Maybe I was using the wrong type of drill bit? I read I need an 1/8'' hole in line on the end side of the original pin.

Not sure what hole you are referring to. Some power cylinder pushrods had a hole at the end for a cotter pin as a safety. If this needs drilling for some reason, or welding has been done, the power cylinder is trash and should be replaced.

Also, just to verify measurements. I measure 4 7/8" from the control valve stud the Tie rod end center?
Don't have access to measure at the moment. One thing though, if you use a "pickle fork" to disconnect the control valve from the pittman arm, it will be destroyed.
 

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You need to talk with Chock. He is the resident expert on these systems. He walked me through rebuilds on both my 66 and my 68. I did have to drill new holes for the locking pin. Used my drill press and a new high quality bit. For the drop ram mount. A lot of people have issues with it flexing. They typically solve it by weld8ng the bracket to the frame.

BTW, I love the Power Steering on my 68. Admittedly it’s a cruiser not a racer, but the PS makes it very enjoyable.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I've had a few gremlins with the power steering system on the 68. I read most hate it, but it's my wife's car. She's a purest.
I'm with her on this one. The Bendix power steering is excellent, using the same valve technology as military aircraft of the period. The Corvette had the same valve from 65-82, and I don't hear Corvette people complaining about hating Corvette steering.

The real problem is usually poor or no maintenance, such as missing clamp around the valve (allows the tubes to flex, destroying the seals) and improper or missing hose bracket. Properly set up, you can expect decades of service from this system.


I replaced the entire suspension and power steering with Moog / Lares parts. When I pulled the power steering down, I noticed the pin was flush with the drag link. Learned the hardway that it's hardened steel. Which is a shame, because the information is all over this forum. Live and learn. I put a spot weld on the drag link / power control valve, but have started developing some issues as of late. The power ram's first washer is being pushed back over the rod. Pretty clear I'll need to drill a new hole or replace the drag link. I have the power assist drop bracket btw.
The drop brackets are typically too long, giving much more clearance than needed. Cutting it shorter, and welding it to the frame rail are important. I prefer to use exhaust that clears the stock bracket.

If the pushrod on the power cylinder is penetrating the washer, that's not the valve's fault.

I believe the drag link is shifting or the drag link valve measurement is off.


I was told this could be the problem with my power ram. Has anyone faced something similar? Long tube headers on the car. I found a few power steering drag links for $100.

The center link on a 68 has no moving parts. Proper rebuild of the valve assembly is the cure for valve problems.

What would you guys recommend? Spend the bill, order, and wait or Take the drag link to a local machine shop? I could do what a few online have done and let a pro drill a new hole. I started drilling with an 18v dewalt, but stopped after realizing the amount of time that would be invested. I was getting nowhere real fast. I have a 1/2" drill I could use (purchased for my first engine rebuild. Dingle ball hone), but not sure if it would make a difference. Should I buy a bench drill ($50 - $130) or let a machine shop handle it? Maybe I was using the wrong type of drill bit? I read I need an 1/8'' hole in line on the end side of the original pin.

Not sure what hole you are referring to. Some power cylinder pushrods had a hole at the end for a cotter pin as a safety. If this needs drilling for some reason, or welding has been done, the power cylinder is trash and should be replaced.

.

Also, just to verify measurements. I measure 4 7/8" from the control valve stud the Tie rod end center?
Don't have access to measure at the moment. One thing though, if you use a "pickle fork" to disconnect the control valve from the pittman arm, it will be destroyed.

I ordered a service manual last night. $40.... which isnt bad in my opinion.

Thanks!!!
 

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I believe the drag link is shifting or the drag link valve measurement is off.
Note certain what you mean by "drag link". The Mustang doesn't have one. It does have a center link, which on 65-70 power steering cars has a Bendix power steering control valve mounted on the left end. I assume this is what you mean.

There is no possibility of the measurement being "off", because there is none. Shifting is an interesting possibility. More commonly referred to as "play" or "slop", when the valve becomes worn and malajusted, the ball stud can move from side to side a noticable amount before the valve is actuated. This can cause loose "feel" in the steering, and wandering on the road.

The cure is a proper rebuild. Usually a professional must do this, although it is perfectly possible to do it using the Ford Shop Manual. One thing I can't emphasize enough, NEVER use a "pickle fork" to detach the ball stud from the pittman arm. This typically destroys the valve.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, the center link. I have a new control valve from Lares. The old valve had a lot of slop. Right turn feels good, but left has a Wheel hop or drag feel. Hesitation in the steering wheel. I inspected the linkage, while my wife turned the wheel left to right. the ram was jamming into the drop bracket pushing engine side washer past the rod ridge. I’m sure the center link will need to be turned a turn or 2 out to prevent this jamming. I’ll wait for the service manual for the measurement. I’ll try my half inch drill 180* from the pin. If that doesn’t work I’ll buy a bench drill.

thanks for all the help. I’ll post some updates once I get it figured out. Worse case, I’ll buy a center link
 

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Be glad to help here. OP will have a very interesting education reading the "shop manual" and actually doing the task.
Maybe 1/3 of the skill will be related/displayed. The other 2/3 is how to make all pieces function, how to shim, how to adjust these pieces.
NO need to drill hole 180 from roll pin. Drill a new hole right beside out hole. Look at sleeve, it has old wear point of old roll pin, use that as a guide to screw valve back on.
 

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If I understand correctly, your steering is reaching Max travel before your ram reaches full travel causing the ram to force it way through the washer. My first thought is the washer is bad. Have surmised if the centerlink is not screwed into the valve far enough this could also happen. However there is a fair amount of slop in the measurement so you would have to be way off on this for it to become an issue. I have to wonder if you had the steering gear and wheels properly centered before putting it all together. Measure the two tie rod sets. They should be close to the same length from side to wide. If they are different lengths the center link wont be centered and you could run out of room before reaching full ram extension.
 
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If I understand correctly, your steering is reaching Max travel before your ram reaches full travel causing the ram to force it way through the washer. My first thought is the washer is bad. Have surmised if the centerlink is not screwed into the valve far enough this could also happen. However there is a fair amount of slop in the measurement so you would have to be way off on this for it to become an issue. I have to wonder if you had the steering gear and wheels properly centered before putting it all together. Measure the two tie rod sets. They should be close to the same length from side to wide. If they are different lengths the center link wont be centered and you could run out of room before reaching full ram extension.

I'll measure today. The center link can't be more than 1-2 turns out 1 way or the other. I marked it prior to removal and used the same location to reinstall. I know the alignment is out. I used the same measurements, but those measurements don't account for the new parts. I have springs, new UCA, LCA, tie rods, etc.... I'm considering a diy alignment kit, anyone had any luck? Pepboys said they'd align the car, but I worked there for a short time in my youth, lol. Back when tape was all you needed for wiring and lug nuts screwed on either way. Ebay / Amazon have a ton of options ranging from cheap to Jay Leno's prices.Toe is an easy fix, but caster / camber are probably out as well. If not the DIY approach. Anybody have a shop in South Jersey they'd recommend?

767241

767242
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The passenger side tie rod length from hole to hole is about 16 1/2", the driver side is 16. I'm sure it's off, but Camber is playing a role as well.

Could anyone provide a guesstimate? How far should the end of the Control Valve stick out past the frame rail (If at all) with the tires straight?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The passenger side tie rod length from hole to hole is about 16 1/2", the driver side is 16. I'm sure it's off, but Camber is playing a role as well.

Could anyone provide a guesstimate? How far should the end of the Control Valve stick out past the frame rail (If at all) with the tires straight?
My tire rod adjustment is to close to the valve to turn. Adjustment spin is blocked by the valve.
 

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My tire rod adjustment is to close to the valve to turn. Adjustment spin is blocked by the valve.
Pretty good sign something is not right. Are you sure you have them on the correct direction, ie, the inner and outer are not reversed.

Also one of the tie rods I bought was shaped significantly wrong. Had to switch to another brand. The bend was off by like 20 degrees and it was hitting the control valve when the wheels turned all the away to one side.

I‘d get you some measurements, but the car is a few miles away at my inlaws place and we have a little rain shower (Hurricane Sally) to deal with tomorrow. If you still needs measurements this weekend I can get them.
 
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There's always the possibility that you have the wrong power cylinder. There were two sizes for Mustangs, depending on the year.
 
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I measured steering wheel rotation. Houston we have a major problem. I'm getting more than 2 turns to the right and just over 1 to the left. My wife is 21 weeks pregnant and suffering from "baby brain", her term. I asked her to sit in the car and hold the steering wheel for me. I mentioned the steering wheel being off and she said that it was turned at one point and she took it center. She didn't realize that there was a specific center. Down the control valve must come, lol. Fixing the gear box alignment most likely solve the problem. I hate taking this control valve down.

Pretty good sign something is not right. Are you sure you have them on the correct direction, ie, the inner and outer are not reversed.

Also one of the tie rods I bought was shaped significantly wrong. Had to switch to another brand. The bend was off by like 20 degrees and it was hitting the control valve when the wheels turned all the away to one side.

I‘d get you some measurements, but the car is a few miles away at my inlaws place and we have a little rain shower (Hurricane Sally) to deal with tomorrow. If you still needs measurements this weekend I can get them.

Be safe with the hurricane. Are you in the Florida Panhandle? I'm trying to talk my wife into moving that way. I'm trying to get the hell out of New Jersey, lol.

There's always the possibility that you have the wrong power cylinder. There were two sizes for Mustangs, depending on the year.
I found the measurements for the power cylinders, thanks. If the steering wheel alignment doesn't solve the issue, I'll take some measurements. Thanks!
 

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I measured steering wheel rotation. Houston we have a major problem. I'm getting more than 2 turns to the right and just over 1 to the left. My wife is 21 weeks pregnant and suffering from "baby brain", her term. I asked her to sit in the car and hold the steering wheel for me. I mentioned the steering wheel being off and she said that it was turned at one point and she took it center. She didn't realize that there was a specific center. Down the control valve must come, lol. Fixing the gear box alignment most likely solve the problem. I hate taking this control valve down.




Be safe with the hurricane. Are you in the Florida Panhandle? I'm trying to talk my wife into moving that way. I'm trying to get the hell out of New Jersey, lol.

I found the measurements for the power cylinders, thanks. If the steering wheel alignment doesn't solve the issue, I'll take some measurements. Thanks!
Bingo, you have to start with the wheel centered. That was going to be my next Question. Turn it all the way to one side, then to the other counting the revolutions. Bring it back half way. It should be straight up and down at this point. Now connect it to the steering valve lightly. Adjust your tie rods so that they are both the same length and the wheels are straight forward. This will center your steering. Double check the steering wheel hasn’t moved. Now you can tighten the valve to the pitman arm. Check the swing full left and right. You should not have any binding. Hint, if you still have the old tie rods connected together, you can use them to get the new ones close to the correct length.

And yes I live In Niceville (near Destin) on the FL panhandle. We love the area. Was stationed here 20 years ago and when I retired from the USAF, I found a job here so we could come back.

Here is a pic of my Valve. Yours should look the same.

767372
 

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Bingo, you have to start with the wheel centered. That was going to be my next Question. Turn it all the way to one side, then to the other counting the revolutions. Bring it back half way. It should be straight up and down at this point. Now connect it to the steering valve lightly. Adjust your tie rods so that they are both the same length and the wheels are straight forward. This will center your steering. Double check the steering wheel hasn’t moved. Now you can tighten the valve to the pitman arm. Check the swing full left and right. You should not have any binding. Hint, if you still have the old tie rods connected together, you can use them to get the new ones close to the correct length.

And yes I live In Niceville (near Destin) on the FL panhandle. We love the area. Was stationed here 20 years ago and when I retired from the USAF, I found a job here so we could come back.

Here is a pic of my Valve. Yours should look the same.

View attachment 767372
How was the storm? Much Appreciated!! I picked up the tie rod puller, which worked great removing the control valve. I've been trying to figure this mess out for awhile. The control valve removal has been a pain every time. Don't watch CJ pony parts remove it, lol. I did exactly what they did the first time. I turned the steering wheel a full turn to the right, kicked the idler arm over a bit and played with the tie rod adjustment. it's much closer to lock for each side. I don't have a lube point at the bottom of the valve. It's a screw. The screw is almost exactly 4 7/8" from the inner tie rod, so now we're in business. I don't have the alignment kit yet, so I'm playing with the lower control arm and tie rod adjustment. It looks and feels better. A test drive should happen today. I'll get the steering lines secured to the valve as well.

I'm a gov employee, my wife and I are prior Army. A position opened up in Fort Walton, but my wife isn't on board at the moment. South Jersey is a hub of stuff to do ( we have a toddler and a baby on the way.) We have a membership to the zoo, aquarium, and a few museums. Everything is within an hour drive. I'm looking for a location with 60* winters and lower taxes, lol. Retirement isn't possible up here. My property taxes are close to 10k. Pan Handle Summer's average the same heat as NJ, but the winters down your way look amazing. 60* average.... Sounds awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Feels like a million bucks driving down the road! My wife must've moved the steering wheel a turn when she got in the car. A Pregnant wife does not make the best assistant. Commit to memory.

I still have pulsation / vibration through the steering wheel while turning. It's more noticeable making a left, but it's pretty consistent. Less noticeable with speed. While turning the wheel left to right in the driveway, I noticed the belt jumps throughout the process. Could the pulley be the cause of my vibration, while turning?? Maybe the warped pulley and added load causes a problem.
 
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