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Discussion Starter #1
I have been looking for this car for over 30 years. something always got in the way of me owning my dream, either it was a rust bucket that someone wanted too much for, someone not knowing what they really had, or a project someone else started and did not know if all the pieces were there. One day all the planets aligned and with the wife's blessing ( her idea ) one of two was found and I trailered my unicorn home. it was what was to be expected of for being stored for 14 years. I will try to share all the steps taken ( good and bad ). so it can help others bring their dreams to life. I am aware of what I have and still making a plan of attack, just knowing the deeper I go the more I will find.
 

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So break down the vin for us, what engine, trans, options, packages, etc. What are your plans original stock, mod, same color or change?
Oh, and congrats!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
day one home after the admiring and making engine sounds as I was turning the steering wheel. I collected all the information and pictures I could. ( document everything )…

VIN 8F01T127199

body 65A, color Y, trim 2F, date 15M, DSO 53, axle 4, trans W

layman's terms-- 2 door hard top, standard interior, sunlit gold metallic with saddle interior. inline 6 cyl, automatic trany.

I was wanting to restore back to original if everything matches, but as you can see it is yellow, with black interior.
found normal rust in trunk drops, rear trunk lid, hood, under battery tray ( what was left ), frame rails, floor pan, both sides. and just enough non stock things that is swaying me to make it my own. over the past months the color is growing on my. ( I will have to leave it because the wife likes the yellow.)


day two. got all wiring diagrams, engine info, mostly related to the fuel system and ignition. ( keep close for reference ), went on the web and got ideas on how to clean the bad gas out. ( it was barely running with a clean source ). reviewed all the pictures to get a better idea on what I really have. plan of attack--- make it run, make it safe, make it stop.


just a few pictures of day one. someone had done some patch work for the floor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
need to see if it can run,
I drained and removed the fuel tank ( only broke one of the bolts ). cleaned the tank with acetone for the varnish, put some in the fuel line at the engine side and blew through the line with light pressure at first. there was a big clog at the back near the tank. what shot out was like silicone stuck in the cone of the tube after it hardened. but it came out and the fuel line was clear with no leaks. the fuel tank was a different story. after initial cleaning, there was so much fumes I took it to the hotsy ( pressure washer ) it took four cleaning cycles of draining and respraying at all angles through the fill neck and sending unit holes to get clear water out of it. after it was dried and because I was still using the fuel filter that the engine came with, I decided to use gas fresh gas to coat the inside of the tank and not a tank coating product. I want to see what would happen. scrubbed all rust off the outside and painted the tank along with priming the inside of the trunk. added new sending unit. and reinstalled tank. primed and she fired up. idled like crap, but I was able to maintain a fast idle.

before and after pictures
 

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I hope you have enough bones to fatten that thing up with some new sheet metal and get it going safely and reliably. Enjoy !!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok, now to make it street legal. only one marker light is working. changed burnt out bulbs. and most of the lights are on. I started in the trunk and repaired all open, rubbed, brittle, or previously questionable repair job. spliced in new wire if needed and ran new wire if any doubt. this is only on the exterior lights. I found three sockets that would not work but was able to free them up with good old WD40, patience, and a good pick. only one reverse light socket is too damaged to be salvaged. ( I will work on it later ) the turn signals in the hood is what I wanted to work. I swapped the flashers and got the drivers side to stay lit but not blink. I got new flashers and more bulbs after checking the part numbers. I had to use a shorter bulb for the front side turns. no one stocked it here, and I wanted to be able to change it without ordering one from china.

I removed the rear seat and found what I was smelling, it was the grand hotel for some lucky mouse that had lived there. thick padding layered with pellets and wire insulation mixed in with a few pieces of paper. ( I don't think it was the build sheet due to the different color seats ). one hour later it was clean enough, get back in, had to rerun new wires under the drivers side rear window into the trunk. and got tail, turn and the right reverse lights working.

turn signals keep going out at times. and traced up to the steering wheel. pulled loose the turn signal switch and repaired a break in the wiring at the switch. I will have to replace the switch later just because of the hack job when someone installed it.
but good news, the lights are working now. ( did have to clean the overspray paint out of the hood turn signal lenses. I used acetone and cotton swabs.


notice all the open butt connectors tie strapped to the steering wheel. also the quick T connector that I found powers the radio at times.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
now to make it safe. the brake pedal goes to the floor. ( leaking wheel cylinder on drivers front ) easy enough fix. rebuilt the carb. this is when things got interesting. I had two power valves in the kit but one on my carb. back to the internet. I have a carb for a manual transmission, I confirmed the wrong carb by the dual vaccum ports on the distributor with only one in use. I will change the carb later. but continued to clean and rebuild the one I had. like an idiot I tossed the crud out of the float bowl in my back yard. you will learn later why I called myself that. got it cleaned and assembled with proper float settings. and I was too eager to reinstall it. got it on the car. got the car started and set idle speed. went on my maiden voyage with the biggest grin on my face. up the street.... died at my turn around. got it started and died again on the way back. one week later resetting idle, fast idle, and messing with the choke. I found in my haste the choke stop was set in wrong. and the spring for the linkage was broke. ( gonna change the carb anyway so I unraveled the spring one turn and got the choke to work properly ).
test drove again, got much farther 2 blocks, then three, engine has low power and it hesitates a lot. was loosing brake pedal. and got it back safely.( right side front wheel cylinder. changed it and both front brakes. ) had to readjust the brakes to get rid of a pull when braking.
changed spark plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor, fuel filter. and it idles great, still stumbles on accel and dies when slowing down at times. this one took me awhile. I keep adjusting the carb, the mixtrue screws, the idle screw, everything I did made it run better but still does the dying thing mostly from faster speeds to an idle. remember what I called myself. I keep studying the carb diagram and it hit me. I tossed the accelerator pump discharge weight out in my backyard with the gunk in the float bowl. thanks to Autolite 1100 Carburetor - Mikes Carburetor Parts I made one and got it back together. now i have been driving it whenever the weather permits with no drivability issues ( no fuel gauge, the oil psi goes up a bit. and i know the temp sender is open. so I will work on them next ) also need to work on the suspension ( shocks are bad, loose sway bar links, and steering is loose)


here are a few sites I used for reference.
https://fordsix.com/archive/www.classicinlines.com/Carbs1V.html

Autolite 1100 Carburetor - Mikes Carburetor Parts

and youtube
 

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Discussion Starter #9
more testing on the fuel gauge issue, found broken wire on right side near back seat. " thanks mouse" I had to run a new wire all down the right side. I even repaired the antenna coax while I was in the area. ( got raido now and an CD from the 80s. bonus gift ). found the voltage regulator to be too inconstant and replaced it. now there is good power and grounds to the sending unit. shorted sending unit to ground and gauge reads full. cleaned the grounding bolts and paint from the fuel tank. used jumper wires and ohmed all grounds, (good) still no fuel gauge. drained and bench tested sending unit. gauge responds. reinstalled and filled fuel. no gauge. scratched my head and reached out for help. then it hit me. removed the tank again, and checked the float. my new float was full of fuel. I cleaned and soldered it back up solid. now the fuel gauge works. changed oil, the oil sending unit and the temp sender. now all the gauges are responding properly.
 

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really quick weekend job. changed all the shocks, and swaybar links. surprising everything came apart easily except I had to cut the swaybar links off with the grinder. I have been driving her about once a week to work. and starting to plan when to do the body work. there are a few more items that need addressed. washers ( manual pump ) leaks and the hoses are chewed, starting to hear a possible right axle bearing noise. need to lift it up and check. at times the fuel will drain down and it wont start without help. ( correct carb is on order ) also used my 3D printer to add the unicorn horn on the grill pony. a proud note.. we have been looking for plates and stumbled across my dad's collection that he drove with. there was no hesitation, got his 68 plates, updated the registration tag to vintage. with his passing, and with the plates in the correct county things feel right. while I wait on the carb, research is being done so the missing vaccum hose to the dist. can be reassembled in the proper location.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got the new carb. Checked choke settings, and got it installed. Routed vaccum line from manifold to the unused dist. port. Set idle speed and mixture screw. What a difference. got a little tweaking to do, but no hesitation on accel, smooth idle cold and warm. Did lift up the rear end and the axle bearing is failing. Pulled the drum and axle retaining bolts. it was stuck in there good. had to take a slide hammer with axle attachment that secures on with the lug nuts. three hits and it popped out. luckily I have access to lot of specialty tools. removing the bearing without a press would be extremely difficult. I have seen some home made press things online, but if I have the tools, I'll use them. just waiting on the parts now. added more items to the chalk board "to do list", erased a few.


took the picture after I pressed off the bearing. spinning the bearing there is a catch that stops it in its track and of course it is extremely noisy. the shaft is good. I am going to change both sides. ( best practice )
 

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Wow, great to see how quickly this project is going for you. I'm jealous!!! :grin:
 

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Installing new rear wheel bearings is SOP for me now on any classic. After 50 years and / or 100k mi. both my '70 and '67 needed them, the wheel on the '67 actually locked up before I got to change it. Nice work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
weather time halted progress. both bearings are in, and brakes adjusted. fixed reverse light that was out by working the contact to free it up with good old WD40. got to drive it today, no issues except minor adjustments on the carb. next up is body work. but because she was sitting so long she gets to get out every chance possible during the nice summer weather before sheet metal is changed. enjoy your rides, more to come.
 

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have put on 800 miles since I got her running. My son convinced me to run it in a local parade. I let it be known before I agreed that it was not "show worthy" but, in his mind it was and who am I to let my son down. Not sure if it was planed but we were the lead of some classic cars. as the owners talked there was a common theme, the money was not discussed. the time down was extensive, and the rewards were great. There was a lot of great comments from those owners and the crowd that reassures me that my path is set. not stopping with the restoration. The car did well. .. at least until the end when vapor locking started happening, at the last turn into the de-staging area. not bad for two hours of idling and creeping. Uni never went that long or slow before. she likes the open road or at least over 30 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
recently I have had issues with the carb flooding over once in a while, one day great, next day sputtering and wanting to dye. I inspected the float, needle and seat, no issues. the bowl had some, powder rust sediment, ( cleaned it out). so I cut open the filter and nothing unusual there. watched the needle move threw its travel and found the needle is catching in the seat bore at times. swapped the needle and seat, ( could not find a marking for size but visually the new one has a smaller diameter). did a few adjustments and drove it for a week with no issues, just getting it dialed in with a few small adjustments, but the car is working reliably again.
 

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well it has been a while ( about 1000 miles ) and it is colder here. so into the garage it goes. and with that tear down. disassembled the interior, got the fuel out and drained cleared the fuel lines. starting from the rear, started taking it to the basic shell. and it is better than expected, still need to remove the dash, wiring and power train before any metal is removed. but whoever had this last did what they could with what they had. ( I need to redo all the work and also found more during disassembly which was expected. also had a surprise when removing the headliner, big mouse nest with snake skins above the drivers seat. during disassembly all wiring is marked to where it goes, all bolts are bagged and tagged. lots of pictures are taken for reference. here are a some of them so you can see what I have to work with. the doors are in good shape, need to take the windows out and get a better peek inside. also got to disassemble the dash, get the wiring harness out, remove the windows and trim. then the vinal top to see how the roof looks, it feels solid but sure there are a few pits in it. after that, remove engine and trany. then remove previous repairs, scrape and clean to bare metal. sounds like work but getting to this point only took about 12 hours. I only can hope the rebuild is as smooth, yea right I know what I got myself into. but it will be worth it.
 

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