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Discussion Starter #21
side note, I have some extra motivation to get the car back to "new". the picture is another '68 that my work finished and being impressed with that outcome I can anticipate what mine will become. And the most powerful motivation was when my 2 year old granddaughter who also loves the car seen it for the first time dismantled. She would not go inside the garage at all, only got to the door. With her head down in sadness, she turned around saying " it broken.... papa fix it, it broken ".
 

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Discussion Starter #22
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here are a few pictures with the path work off. I will be needing both torque boxes. just cleaning and getting an inventory of needed parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
it has been a while and progress has been made, but when taking one thing off I find something deeper. got the radiator and front aprons off, patched up the rear aprons near the shock tower. and cleaning the shock tower found some holes in the bottom. patched those, but found more holes under the cowl. this led to the rabbits hole.
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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
was looking at the position of the rust holes from inside, that is when I noticed the bondo in the fresh air inlets. cleaned the drivers side and found more rust that has made its way inside the car. removed all wiring and under dash items, took lots of pictures for reference. found more rust in the center of the dash and cowl area. I really did not want to do what needs to be done...off came the cowl, removed lower cowl (insert censored beep for all those spot welds here ). now with a good view of the holes or lack of metal, it is going to need a firewall. I have time to ponder on which sheet metal parts go on first, ( cowl, torque boxs, firewall, floor pans.) because the front frame pieces will be here soon. in the meanwhile I will clean and prep all the steering parts, pull the engine and transmission, ( need to rebuild them also ). the fresh new look on the cleaned and prepped parts is enough to confirm I am going in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
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I noticed you removed the driver-side inner fender where the VIN stamp is located. I hope this is an obvious statement, but please SAVE that panel with the original VIN stamp. If that panel is replaced, you must weld the VIN stamp back into the original location. Follow your State laws for that process. Some States require law enforcement inspections before/after, other don't seem to care.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I noticed you removed the driver-side inner fender where the VIN stamp is located. I hope this is an obvious statement, but please SAVE that panel with the original VIN stamp. If that panel is replaced, you must weld the VIN stamp back into the original location. Follow your State laws for that process. Some States require law enforcement inspections before/after, other don't seem to care.
thanks for the heads up. the vin stamp was on all the fender aprons. and I could only save one, the vin plate is still on the door. pass side dash has been rotted away. I am looking into our regulations, but will most likely replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
update on the progress--- I removed the engine and trany for access, got the drivers side torque box out, removed the floor support, cleaned and repaired frame under floor support. welded in new patches and installed new floor support, torque box, and firewall extension. ( I am really rethinking the game plan for the passenger side. ) doing these I have to admit...it sucked. but I kept telling myself it will be worth it. but it still sucked. if you plan on doing a floor support or torque box. do your homework. I am not a body man, and this is out of my realm of expertise, I asked questions and did a lot of research before the first cut was made. did I mention it sucked. also finished up the floor pan and seat riser. going to take it easy and reassemble the drivers suspension and do some patch work in the rear of drivers side, seam seal and add the park brake hinge to finish it off, then remove and inspect the inside of the passengers torque box to see if it can be saved. by the way, the granddaughter gave her approvals on how the work is progressing.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
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the vin stamp was on all the fender aprons. and I could only save one...
Do you have the original inner fender metal? You don't need the entire panel. You just need the metal where the VIN stamp is located. Those stamps are precious. After you replace the inner fenders with damage-free metal, your State should permit you to patch-weld the original VIN stamp metal back into the new fenders at their original location for a seamless repair.

If you have discarded the original inner fenders and don't have the VIN stamps, then you may have problems. Another owner discarded all his VINs in an old VMF thread. He was forced to get a new VIN and title issued by his State.

pass side dash has been rotted away. I am looking into our regulations, but will most likely replace it.
Is the original VIN tag still riveted to the dash? The dash VIN tag and the inner fender VIN stamps must be present and all match.

the vin plate is still on the door.
That is not a legal VIN. The door warranty tag holds no legal VIN status. You can easily replace the door along with that tag. Replica door tags are sold by many vendors.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
it has been a while from the last post, but have been pushing forward. I did the same to the passengers side, got the floor out and cut into the torque box from the inside. to my surprise it was where the last of the mouse condo was hiding. cleaned that out to find only surface rust. more cleaning and inspecting then welded in new metal to enclose it. the repair is solid. got the floor and seat riser installed. sealed it up. next was cleaning firewall and undercoating off while I wait for the cowl to arrive.
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Discussion Starter #32
cleaned passenger side suspension parts, patched the hole in the shock tower and reassembled with the correct grease zerk, cowl came in, prepped and added seam sealer to the hats. attached the top and bottom with an inner layer of seam sealer, than after drilling and prepping all those holes, added seam sealer to the outer edge and attached the cowl assembly to the body. spot welded and blended down, attached the apron extensions. did another run of seam sealer on all edges. ( don't want to take it apart again, there were a lot of spot welds ). gave a quick shot of paint, and inside applied some seam sealer around the upper edges. more cleaning while I wait for the radiator support and front aprons.
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Discussion Starter #33
as I was waiting on the front aprons and radiator support to come, I cleaned and prepped the inside, dash, roof, rear pillers. this lead to cleaning and prepping the roof with just a few spots to repair. all parts came in and got them mocked up, measured, mocked up, measured again. prepped each piece and set back in place. measured again, and welded all back in place. the drivers apron did not come with the pre punched holes for the fender, so I marked it with the templet I made off the old one. but have not cut the holes yet. I wanted to set the door and fender on to make sure the marks were correct. this is where it goes south.....

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Discussion Starter #34
I got the drivers door out and was cleaning a spot of bubbled rust to put a patch on it. found more rust the more I cleaned the bondo off. got clean metal but still taking a lot of bondo off. got pissed and cleaned a line straight up from the bottom of the door to the mid point.in two areas. the one farthest from the rust was not too deep. the middle one is 3/4 of an inch thick. really???!!!!!! that explains why this door was so heavy. I decided to strip it down to look inside. what a pain in the_____. after finding all the hidden window stops it was not too hard. NOT. going together will be another story. that is why I have pictures, the service manual, and the other door to help in reassembly. I found a huge impact denting in the inner support structure. need new door. insert sad face here. on the brighter side all the parts are out and ready to be cleaned and prepped for installation on the new door when it comes in. in the mean time I will be taking a closer look at the passenger door. I removed the vin tag and have it safe. I still need to weld in the vin stamp on the front apron. also have a plate that I found loosely fastened with some wire on the old radiator support with the vin on it, ( I will find where that goes also and reinstall it.)
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I got the drivers door out and was cleaning a spot of bubbled rust to put a patch on it. found more rust the more I cleaned the bondo off. got clean metal but still taking a lot of bondo off. got pissed and cleaned a line straight up from the bottom of the door to the mid point.in two areas. the one farthest from the rust was not too deep. the middle one is 3/4 of an inch thick. really???!!!!!! that explains why this door was so heavy. View attachment 746150
I am amazed when I see some of that crap. Sometimes it looks like someone could have fixed it right with less headaches than laying on 20 layers of bondo and spending the hours to shape and smooth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
With the extra time most are getting off work I was able to keep busy during my split shifts , welded in the vin stamp on the passenger front apron. reassumed the dash and dash wiring, got a new plenum box and insulated the firewall.
resealed the transmission with new clutch packs. Tore down the engine and found the exhaust port between 3 and 4 was burnt up on the exhaust manifold to the point that the center section was cracked and brittle. I was able to save the manifold with having a matching hole that is on the head. if there is drivability issues I will replace the manifold. but the divider has no purpose unless it is on a faclon. also there was small wear on the thrust side of the cap bearings ( not enough for replacement ). The timing chain had 1 inch of play. resealed the engine and installed new timing chain and gears. the engine had good compression before so I lapped the vales and did a quick hone to the cylinders. I decided not to use new rings. did find out this engine was .30 over. painted the engine and reinstalled both the transmission and engine back into the chassis. this opened some space in the garage. I am planning on installing the driveshaft and the steering wheel. then continue on with the door and rear quarters.
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Discussion Starter #37
OK, got the door in, found minor damage to the forward middle lip area, not an issue. had a bit of an issue figuring out where to start and with what piece. thank goodness for pictures I took and the manual. once started, it all fell into place. got the door adjusted and it looks like the lower rear has been modified. ( concaved inward a bit, could have been sanders choice ) will not know until the new quarter shows up. cleaned and installed driveshaft, I received the radiator and got it installed, filled all fluids. and could not resist. got it started with aux. fuel tank. had to tune it a bit due to being disassembled. but if I could share video I would. such a great sound. if it was not for a car blocking the drive I might have drove it up the block. all I could do was pull it out of the garage and let it get some fresh air and sun. ( not to mention burn off the fumes of rebuilt motor, trany. and ran it looking for any leaks. none found. I was able to share this day with the grand daughter who thinks this is her car. as she is sitting in the drivers seat pretending to drive, she let me know that she is happy but... " still broke....papa fix it....almost done." if having the car start and drive was not enough motivation to continue, what she said is. and that was just enough to push me to start on the rear quarters, outer wheel wheels, and trunk drops. I actually plan on doing them one side at a time and wait on disassembly until they parts arrive. until then I will just start it up a bit and dream. I mean plan the next steps.
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Discussion Starter #38
lot of progress within the last month. I decided to save the trunk lid and repaired the rusted inner liner. there is a dent in the rear but I will have my professional body guy repair that ( we have talked a lot and he knows he will do "some touch up stuff" ) . did the thing that scared me the most. I cut the rear quarter. ( insert scary music here) I am not a welder, or body guy. the welds I did will be hidden. a quarter panel will show everything. I cut it 3 inches from the top, and 1 inch from the rear, removed the skin from the 'B" piller and proceeded to cut the outer wheel well, and trunk drop. I only know what I am doing from info from word of mouth, my body guy and YOU TUBE, with little to no training, that being said, I fitted the wheel well to the new fender, welded in the trunk drop, welded in the wheel well, and finally, after 5 fittings to line up the lines, I welded in the quarter panel. I should have done what my body guy said and cut at the top line of the quarter. it took a lot of blending and some skim coats of filler to get my weld to be a little less noticeable. ( body guy to the rescues there, hopefully ).. got rid of all the yellow and gave it a rust preventer spray of black.( per body guy request, a little less for him that saves me a lot. got seam sealer in open areas. After driving it around the block ( could not resist with a big smile on my face). mental note I have to do a little more fine tuning of the engine. it ran like I have an oversized cam in it. but that will be minor adjustments later. I parked it so I can work on the passengers side. found this side was also heavy enough with the bondo that I will replace the skin as well. all in all I am proud with how it is coming along. and the granddaughter and son also gave me their approvals.
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Looking great, can't wait to see the end product. I hope I can articulate my 66 build this well.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
progress, eagerness, problems, and solutions. about in that order. needed to flip the car around for better work space ( aka--drove car around the block :cool: cause I could ). went rounds with myself on how to cut the rear quarter, and decided to do what I did on the drivers side. cut the quarter off and found... yes more thick bondo in globs. at least the last repairs were constant and I am not shocked when I find it, just still amazed by the amount. Also found some bondo in the middle of the rear hood support., did some PDR ( paintless dent repair ). pushed it out with an old hockey stick handle that I have had in my tool box ( to hold up the hoods and other unique situations ). similar to the drivers side I welded in the trunk drop and mocked up the wheel well and fender multipal times before welding in the wheel well. welded in the quarter and that upper weld was giving me fits. the metal not staying in place and I was fighting to keep it aligned. now it has too many waves that I could see and feel. talked with my body guy and he said that the dent I pushed out was not straight enough causing my issues. I recut portions of the seam and rewelded after pushing the dent out some more... he was right. ( once again, if you have not been trained in body work....make friends with one. it helps ) seam sealed all spots, and moved to the pass door. cleaned and painted, not too exciting, but looking good. got the old hood on and fought it on the alignment, but got it set. placed the pass fender on and the grand daughter's jaw dropped in happy astonishment when she seen the car. Still had some time in the day, I used 2 min. paint remover on the fender, and found lots of bondo on the wheel well area, rear of the fender by the door, and on top of the side marker light. I wanted to see if it can be fixed. cleaned the more than 1/2 inch thick chunk of bondo off the wheel well, and used a dolly and hammer, guess what, it came out close. no major bondo needed, just a little patience. still needs more cleaning and a bit more work on the fender, but the more parts I put on, the more drive I have to get it completed.

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