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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a 428 car that will need to have new hood, trunk lid, both front fenders,both doors, trunk floorpans, tail light panel,lower cowl panel ,rfront apron,and floor pans will have to be replaced, my question is being an r code car do i try to get all nos parts or just go to the catalogs
 

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Depends on your long range plan. There are basically three different levels/choices but now is the time to make that choice

1- Replace all the metal with date coded original sheet metal. Often best done by purchasing another donor car from the same factory and same time period. This is what is necessary IMHO for s real restoration.

2- Replace all the metal with service replacement parts (referred to as NOS by many) Parts may be better looking and fitting than reproduction but may not be exactly like original panels.

3- Replace all the metal with reproduction parts. In this case some of the panels are not available or if they are they are easy to spot as reproductions. If you make this choice its likely that you will follow this pattern purchasing everything for the car as reproduction - creating what is being referred to, by some, as a catalog car.

Hope this helps in some way. BTW next time this sort of question might be better asked over in the concours section of this site since they can get buried pretty quickly over here and lost ;)
 

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You probably won't find floors or the apron so you'll have to go repro there. For the doors, fenders, trunk lid and hood I would look for nice used possibly even a west coast donor car (rust free 6 cylinder coupes are fairly affordable)You didn't say what body style or whether its a shaker so that may change a few things.
 

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Geez Jeff, you're a faster typer than I am, you beat me :shocked:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
tlea said:
You probably won't find floors or the apron so you'll have to go repro there. For the doors, fenders, trunk lid and hood I would look for nice used possibly even a west coast donor car (rust free 6 cylinder coupes are fairly affordable)You didn't say what body style or whether its a shaker so that may change a few things.
it is a mach 1 with a shacker hood
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Jeff_Speegle said:
Depends on your long range plan. There are basically three different levels/choices but now is the time to make that choice

1- Replace all the metal with date coded original sheet metal. Often best done by purchasing another donor car from the same factory and same time period. This is what is necessary IMHO for s real restoration.

2- Replace all the metal with service replacement parts (referred to as NOS by many) Parts may be better looking and fitting than reproduction but may not be exactly like original panels.

3- Replace all the metal with reproduction parts. In this case some of the panels are not available or if they are they are easy to spot as reproductions. If you make this choice its likely that you will follow this pattern purchasing everything for the car as reproduction - creating what is being referred to, by some, as a catalog car.

Hope this helps in some way. BTW next time this sort of question might be better asked over in the concours section of this site since they can get buried pretty quickly over here and lost ;)

but with all the parts that i would need it is going to take perty nice car and would hate to cutup a nice sportsroof car
 

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I spot 69 donor cars (coupes) with nice front clips and tons of usable parts for $2,000 or less all of the time. That's the route I'd go for sure.
 

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Dwilson said:
but with all the parts that i would need it is going to take perty nice car and would hate to cutup a nice sportsroof car

A coupe donor car will supply (of course I have not seen your car) most of the parts you listed. Have used coupes for doing the same thing your thinking about in the past. Most recently a convertible and a fastback Shelby. Both high end cars when done.... so date matched stuff was/is the only choice IMHO

Great investment in the long run... the worst the car is the more benefit it can be.
 

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tlea said:
You probably won't find floors or the apron so you'll have to go repro there..........

All depends on the car..... plenty of nice floors and aprons. Just a pain to remove and reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Jeff_Speegle said:
tlea said:
You probably won't find floors or the apron so you'll have to go repro there..........

All depends on the car..... plenty of nice floors and aprons. Just a pain to remove and reinstall.
where is a good place to look for one of these doiner car? there nun here in maine and what wouuld it cost to get one shipped from cal to maine
 

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Jeff_Speegle said:
tlea said:
You probably won't find floors or the apron so you'll have to go repro there..........

All depends on the car..... plenty of nice floors and aprons. Just a pain to remove and reinstall.
Actually I was referring to NOS for these. I do the used apron route all the time. Its better than NOS because if you remove and reinstall it right the spot welds are already there on the engine side.
 

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Be prepared for some sticker shock if you decide to go NOS. Outside of a Boss 429 a 1969 CJ Mach is the most expensive Mustang to restore. Over 12,000 of them were made AND you are competing with the Boss 302 people for body/trim parts AND a lot of the stuff is not repopped so you have to go NOS/OEM.

A good friend of mine is doing a 69 Boss 302 right now. He had to spend $900 for a decent used decklid. The front grille parts are nuts - I'll bet you'll spend $2000 scraping together the grille and surrounding trim. A set of NOS backup lights is going to cost you $500.

I roughly estimate that if you go NOS for the parts you list you will be looking at $6000-9000.

Personally I think that if you wanted to go all NOS with the car (think MCA Thoroughbred) it would cost $75-100K just for the parts.
 

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If it were me I would grab an NPD catalog and go to town. You'll spend endless hours searching for junkyard stuff and most of the used stuff still needs work. Here's what I found in the current NPD catalog;

Hood $269
Fenders $458 (pair)
Cowl kit $104
Floors $118 LH/RH full length
Trunk $19.95
Tail light panel $105.95
Doors $354.95 (each)
Front valance $59.95
Trunk lid $175

So, for about 2 grand you got all the parts and ZERO rust! I had to replace almost all of my sheetmetal (incl new door shells)) and the only piece that had to be massaged was the fiberglass racing apron.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e385/flicktra/primered1.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e385/flicktra/newpaintpass.jpg

Perhaps the only people who can tell the difference between the old metal and the new are MCA judges! Everyone says the new stuff is thinner but I can't tell the difference... JMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
let put this out there! how much is it realy going to take away from the car? if it does not have all orig date coded parts? would try to get orig door, hood,fender and trunk but aftermarket floor,full rear quar,tail panel
 

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Dwilson said:
let put this out there! how much is it realy going to take away from the car? if it does not have all orig date coded parts? .............

Thats fair.

Depends on the buyer and what was being asked as a price for the car. If the seller is attempting to get anywhere near top dollar (read not a bargin) then I and many others I know would simply not be buyers. Too many others with the parts available.
 

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Dwilson said:
where is a good place to look for one of these doiner car? there nun here in maine and what wouuld it cost to get one shipped from cal to maine
Would start with a number of sellers that are located in Calif ( I don't like buying from Craig's list or similar from a distance)

I could see (if your timing is good and your lucky) that you could find a rust free coupe with almost no need for work on the donor parts for $2000-2500 at the most. Timing right - coupes in that shape could be found for $800-1000

Since the car will not be a show car you can have it shipped in an open trailer or carrier. I haven't paid to ship a car but a number of others (Charles T had two shipped last year) have ... so we can wait for their responses.
 

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Coast to coast open is about $1200+ with current fuel prices. If its not running there probably will be an additional charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok so the with the coupe doiner car that will do all the parts but the rear Q so those have to come from doiner car too what a going price for them will need both side
 
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