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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone here done a staggered shock conversion on their 69-70 Stang? I’m just curious if they bought a kit and how they located the upper left mount hole at the correct location and angle. Pictures would be great.
 

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There is a guy named Forrest Sanco (??) in the Argyle/Ft Worth, TX area who sells a kit with repop stampings of the same sheet metal Ford welded to the chassis for the Boss302/428CJ staggered shock upper mount. IIRC he sells the kit for $250-$300. If you can't find him on Fleabay try Boss302.com classified ads. He also sells a throttle cable bracket to put a Holley double pumper on a B2 and it looks exactly like a bracket Ford would have used. Lots of B2 owners buy the bracket.

I found the kit on Fleabay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-1-2-69-70-Mustang-Staggered-Shock-Boss-302-Shelby-GT-350-500-428-Drag-Pack-/222152753843?hash=item33b95602b3:g:k-oAAOxy4dNS~CH-&vxp=mtr
 

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The idea of the staggered shocks back then was to keep the axle from twisting under hard acceleration. Since there are numerous types of traction bar systems out there today, I would suggest doing that instead of staggered shocks. But if you're trying to do staggered shocks for restoration reasons or cloning a Boss or a 428 CJ car, go for it. It's just a lot of work and money.
 

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The kit comes ready-to-install. The location for the left shock is dictated by the bracket, which can be used as a guide to place the hole. Note the crude hole in the photo, which is how the factory originals looked.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your replies. I know there are lots of aftermarket solutions for wheel hop, but most all of them (especially traction bars) show themselves and I’m trying to make this build have as much a factory LOOK as possible. I’m thinking of using a combination of some superior leaf springs (ORP Mid-eye 4½”) along with the staggered shock mod to do the job.
I can do the welding myself so I’d be out just the $300-400 bucks for the modification (which was a factory mod), although not typical for a Mach..
So 22GT – are you saying that the L upper mount in the kit is already provided with a bracket that positions itself at the correct angle?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Conclusion to 69-70 Staggered Shocks Conversion

Just thought I'd include a conclusive comment of this inquiry from the response that I got from Forest Sanco (after contacting him at his new address: [email protected]) who told me: <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:City><st1:place>Gary</st1:place></st1:City>,<o:p></o:p>
….. there is a heavy bracket welded into the top half of the staggered shock mount cross member that the top of the left shock mounts to. The way it is formed, it will really only fit in 1 spot so locating it isn't too tough.<o:p></o:p>
The right side shock mounts into the same location as non staggered cars. On the top body mount there is a doubler plate that reinforces the floor so the shock doesn't tear up the floor pan hole. The lower mount is significantly thicker and reinforced more where the shock goes thru it. Yes, you could use the original lower shock mount on the right, and you can also use a right on the left flipped around, but if you put stiff shocks on it and drive it aggressively, you will ultimately fil (I think he meant bend) both the right side upper and lower mounts.<o:p></o:p>
Go with the Maverick lower mounts if you can find them for best price/performance. I don't have any of those right now. I also make the doubler for the right side and the plug for the un-used upper hole on the left.<o:p></o:p>
- Forrest -<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Again, thanks guys for all your helpful inputs!<o:p></o:p>
- <st1:City><st1:place>Gary</st1:place></st1:City> -<o:p></o:p>
 
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