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Hey guys,
Well I have done a lot of research on this topic and have a few questions out there for those of you that have done this. First off I have a 69 with non-power drum brakes. I have been thinking of going to the junk yard to pick up the conversion. Question is do I need the master cyl. and Prop valve or can I use the existing ones I have with the drum brakes. Also how much of a pain would it be to upgrade to Pwr brakes at this time. I am tired of feeling like I am not going to stop when I hit the brakes.. Any info or sites on how to do this on a 69 would help me out a bunch. Thanks
 

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I have basically the same car, and can tell you where I am in the process:
Bought the front disks from a 70 mach for $150, new rotors were $100 each, new calipers and pads were $50 each, new tie rod ends were $35, new upper ball joints were $40, and new flex lines were $25 each. I have the distribution block and MC from the donor car, and have to get the Prop valve, or an aftermarket one. Others who have done this (you can do a search, its a popular topic) have said it makes a BIG difference, but you definately will spend some bucks and need to make the changes. I also had to factor in a new brake pedal and mounting brackets.....
 

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You will definitely need a disc brake type master cylinder. Depending on the spindles you find you may also need new tie rod ends. The 70-73 spindles are heavier and require larger tie rod ends. I didn't convert to power so I can't say regarding those requirements and I still don't know if I should have changed out the factory proportioning valve. I just added an aftermarket adjustable to the rear brake line coming off the distribution / proportioning valve. Still requires a bunch of pedal pressure but the thing does stop.
 

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I am going to be converting the mach 1 to power disc brakes also, and want to know why does the pedal have to be changed. I haven't factored that into my conversion yet.

Thanks for the input.
Bob
 

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I was told (here on the forum) that the manual brake pedal is different than the power pedal. I am going to grab the one from the donor car - but the donor car is an auto, so it is much different from mine because my car was a 3 speed manual... Gotta be an expert here who can refute it if it aint so....
 
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%$##$%#$^^@##^@

$100 each for rotors? Are you kidding? Please tell me they were some fancy cross drilled, vented, or something...

I can get them around here for $35 each. Loaded calipers were $38 each.

No matter how you go, get an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve.

As far as pedals/boosters/etc you can do several things.

1. use your existing pedals, do not use a power booster.
2. use your existing pedals, use aftermarket booster by (thundersomethingoranother) I think they are $250 or so
3. use stock style booster, change pedals to a disk cars pedals (remember to ask that they are the same as you have, ie 4speed/auto)

Nonpower disks require no more power than drum setups.
 

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MFP - 35 bucks??????????????????? From where? I looked all over and actually got the best deal from NPD, as much as it killed me. At least they were not the cheap chinese ones, but they were not cross drilled fancy schmancy ones.. Also couldnt find a very good deal on most of the rest of the stuff. Most places said, "you mean 1969???, we aint got nuthin THAT old...". Get me your sources, Ill keep it on the down low....
 
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Got em at the local parts store called bumper to bumper. Dont think that autozone and discount auto were that much more. There are some things that NPD and similar places sell that are commonly available, but much cheaper.

Brake flex lines sucked, like $28 each for them I think. The adjustable proportioning valve (wilwood) for $50. MC $15, and I don't think my tie rods were that much either but I cannot find the receipt from 2 years ago right now.;)

Heck, I just picked up 2 rear drums for my 67 for $35 each from Discount auto parts. The basic store did not have them, but they shipped them from the warehouse. NPD wants $65 for the same part and I promise its the same part.
 

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I am in the process of assembling the parts to do my conversion also. When I checked into rotors I was qouted $102 from Kragen and $43 for the calipers (loaded). Fortunately, the rotors I think from the donor are turnable. But the calipers have not been used in at least 15 yrs so I do not trust them for the little amount of insurance it would take to replace them. My biggest concern right now is how to get the spindles off the donor. The ball joints are rivetted on!! Arrrrggggghhhhhh where is my BFH.
 

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I am converting the manual drum brakes on my 69 convertibel to 70 power disk brakes. here is the parts and prices i have found:

Rotors (United Brake Products) (2 needed) $29.95 each
Loaded Calipers (2 needed) 33.99 each
inner bearing (2 needed) $6.99 each
outer bearing (2 needed) $7.99 each
Hardware kit $16.99
Disk Bolt & pin (2 needed) $4.99
Bendix Power Booster & master cylinder (Cardone Reman) $94.99 + $40.00 core
Or
Midland Power Booster & master cylinder (Cardone Reman) $130.99 + $60.00 core

I purchased the spindles, caliper brackets and spash shields at a swap meet for $35.00. I got the junction block for $20.00 atthe same swap meet.

I still need to get the the 70 Power brake pedal for an automatic car.

Mike
 

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MFP - thanks for the info. After feeling like I took one up the rear, I may need some of your "mental health services". THere arent too many bumper to bumpers here, and have never heard of discount, but certaintly will look into them.. Even the mustang restorer told me the rotors were a hundo each. Arrrggghhhhhh! Its only money, dirty filthy money..... sob sob sob... I might have saved enough to put a downpayment on a dash pad! (I wont even tell you how much I got robbed for some of the body parts I bought - they shot Jesse James for less.....)
 
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