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69 disk brake rotor and wheel stud questions.

554 Views 2 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  Guest
Man has this forum changed!!! It's been a couple years since I've been here, and the need to ask the group a couple questions has come again. I hope the same knowledgeable and informative people are still here.

I am finally doing my power disc brake swap, with everything going as planned until I attempt to install the caliper. I immediately notice that the overall depth of the new rotors seem to be a 1/4" to 1/2" too far out of center.

Disappointed (and since I have to move the car back into the garage) I install the wheel and notice that I only get 2, maybe 2 ½ turns, before the wheel lugs reach their torque specs. The new studs are seated correctly, so I have to assume that the length is wrong.

I am confident that I have been sold the incorrect parts. Maybe the studs are good while the disc rotor front plate is too thick – but I doubt it. How many turns should one expect? I have always though of around 6 – 8 as being normal.

Does anyone have the correct overall depth and stud length measurements for a 68 or 69 with disc brakes?
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Sounds like "Danger...Danger to me!"

It's possible the rotor was re-assembled incorrectly when the wheel studs were pressed back in.

A good rule of thumb is you need a minimum thread engagement equal to the diameter of the stud or bolt your using. For a 1/2" stud that's about 10 turns if you have 20 threads per inch.

Could the rotor be installed on the wrong side of the hub. How does the new one compare to the one you took off?
That's my problem - I don't have the originals - for the conversion I just got the spindle and hub (I took the calipers for the core charge - so I know the ones I have are correct.) I left the rotor and lugs in the scrap yard. The yard cost by weight - so the lighter I got it the cheaper it was.

I didn't think I was going to have a problem - think I would of learnt by now. Thanks for the rule of thumb.
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