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First off my intent is not :deadhorse: ! A long time back we had a lengthy discussion
about NOS. You mention getting a NOS (service part) heat shield...Ford blue.

The shroud was rusted out years ago and about 10 years ago found a "NOS" shroud for
my 289 2V at a swap meet. The part had the Ford service Parts sticker on it and was/is
painted black. Weren't the early 289s black. Would they have changed the service part
number to make it blue?
Typical Service Parts were primed.
 

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I finally found some Plastikote 224 to make a comparison with the Duplicolor.

My preference is for the Plastikote. The picture doesn't show it too well but the Duplicolor is a shade darker and has a tinge of purple to it.

I also like the gloss level better on the Plastikote.



The paint break is just to the right of the P. Both sides are over light gray primer.
 

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I agree. The Plastikote 224 has been found to be the best. It's all I've used the last 20 years. It wears like iron too. Check out Plastikote's #221 Grey Primer as well. I always use that as a base. Some people say do not prime...I say No way...!! As an added benefit, I've found that the Plastikote goes on easier, and wears like iron!!

Tony K.
 

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That my 66 K codes engine in the Mustang Monthly article, painted with the 80's with Duplicolor Ford Dark Blue. Jim took that picture in the 90's must be floating in their archives.

Here's a bad picture of it now 20 years later, still holding up good.
Looks a darker shade in the garage with a flash.
 

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OK, if you want NOS Quality, it will need to be sprayed from a Gun, and use Color Codes. If you are going to use Good Ol' Rattle Can it is, 66-67 FORD DARK BLUE, 68-Early 70 OLD FORD BLUE, Late 70-73 is FORD BLUE. New Ford Blue and Ford Corporate Blue are to NEW of colors for Pre-73.
 

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"Ford Corporate Blue are to NEW of colors for Pre-73."

Umm.. No.

What?

Have you even read this thread? go back to the beginning..

Tony K.
 

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Is anyone else out there as amazed as I when reading this thread that SO many people can have such varied opinions on such a (seemingly) simple question. Subsection "G" under section 4, Engine, of the MCA Guidelines reads:

"4. ENGINE Points
G. Engine Components to be Painted:
Ford Corporate Blue Components: Engine block, head/heads, intake manifold, carburetor plate
(may be natural), valve covers and oil dipstick handle (except vehicles with dress-up kits),
thermostat housing, bypass hose and clamps, water pump assembly, timing cover, oil pan, oil dipstick tube."

So I guess the answer to the original question is "Ford Corporate Blue," and NOT Ford Blue, Old Ford Blue or any of the seeming endless other shades of blue with the Ford name attached!

Oops, sorry, didn't mean for this to turn into a rant -- just an observation.
 

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Ford Corporate blue did not even Exist until the 70's that I am aware of, I am probably wrong. . I use Standard Bore, Orig. Rubber Motor Mount, No-Drip or Bubbles in the Valve Covers Motors to Match up Original colors. When I can tell that a Motor has never been removed from a car, I get the Cleanest, Least Faded Part off of it, and then match up the Original Color. I have ALL of the Shades available to me, and My Previous Post states my observations of what is Original. Been doin it for years. They changed Colors Mid-70
 

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I don't want to step on any toes here. I am just stating my observations, and that is how I have re-finished all of my engine Parts for years. Never had any Complaints about Color. Old Ford Blue and Corporate are Close shades.
 

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comparison:

69 or 70 (not sure) shaker (inner plate where air filter sat)

plastikote 224 (darker blue (more purple)

the commonly referenced Ford Blue (13358) mixed for a SS urethane w/5-10% flattener





the shaker is quite a bit lighter than either 13358 or plastikote. keep in mind these were certainly different batches of everything. i'm sure the mix of 13358 for me will be very slightly different the next time.

in my opinion:

1. spray can paint sucks. there are cheap guns that will get the job done.

2. lighting plays a big role

3. when you can't compare paints side by side (i mean within a couple of inches) then you really won't notice (IF they are close). I did the same type of sample with "natural steel" paints. they all completely SUCKED when compared to real natural steel. step five feet away with no close reference to true natural steel, and it isn't nearly as bad.

thus if you paint your valve covers with a different paint from the block, then there is a good chance you will notice a difference. should they be slightly different???
 

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Ford Corporate Blue was first used on 1966 Mustang engines through the 1980's.

Tony K.
 

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Ford Corporate blue did not even Exist until the 70's that I am aware of, I am probably wrong. . I use Standard Bore, Orig. Rubber Motor Mount, No-Drip or Bubbles in the Valve Covers Motors to Match up Original colors. When I can tell that a Motor has never been removed from a car, I get the Cleanest, Least Faded Part off of it, and then match up the Original Color. I have ALL of the Shades available to me, and My Previous Post states my observations of what is Original. Been doin it for years. They changed Colors Mid-70

Ford Corporate Blue, Ford part number EP-2075-C has been around since May 1965. Your observations are definately flawed!
 

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I've had excellent results with POR-15 engine enamel. Dries so slowly it flows right out, you can even brush it on with no brush marks. Color authenticity is quite good, too.

 

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You know, I use POR-15 for lots of stuff..Usually as basecoat before priming...but I've heard the same thing about their engine paint...Never Tried it though..

Tony K.
 

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I wanted to retract my statements here. It's pretty obvious that i have just noticed the 3 slight shade differences that Tony mentioned, and I'm not about to argue with an MCA judge. It is very clear what is MCA correct. I'm not a painter or such, so I would not consider myself the best when it comes to properly matching shades. I'm sorry to add confusion to the thread. What Tony says is what should be accepted.
 

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Lol... I'm not a judge yet....Maybe someday... It would only be in the '64-'66 area.. I can tell you that.. For now, I'm just an MCA member with 25+ years of '65-'66 Mustang experience. There's so much Mustang knowledge out there that it boggles the mind..!!!
I make mistakes too...but I'm a little harder on myself than most...I Try not to make the same mistake twice...but sometimes a subject does not come up for at least 7 or 8 years if you can believe it...and we have to go back and revisit the whole area because of different plants, Wrong data printed in books, etc. One thing that I have learned over the years is that you have to keep an "open" mind... Some new discoveries are always around the corner....and old discoveries too for that matter...lol..

Tony K.
 

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As stated before the color varied between shades over the years, and between plants...from a shade darker to a shade lighter, and actually one in the middle. There is no one "True" Ford Coporate blue when talking about what was originally used on the engines, because the shade varied. I have 3 NOS pieces, and all three are different shades of Ford Corporate blue. Which one is correct? Well, All three of them! I would go out on a limb and say that there are three different shades of the color that I have found, but no more, and no less. "Old Ford Blue" (Pre '65) is way to light...so it's not even a contender...just for fyi..
+1 I'm extremely picky on matching up my parts to the original Ford Corporate blue. I've tried every type of blue sold at NAPA, Autozone, O'Reillys, Advance Auto parts..... every color they offer in blue is too light or way too dark. I also found "Old Ford Blue" in Duplicolor to be a lighter shade than the intended Corporate Blue color. All shades of the correct color of corporate blue will be slightly off, but the "Old Ford Blue" and "Ford Blue" sold at common autoparts store are WAY off.

In addition to plastikote or POR-15, which I haven't tried to verify myself, I found VHT SP138 Engine Enamel "New Ford Blue" is about an exact match to Corporate Blue.
 
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