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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for advice (or maybe reassurance) before I pull the trigger on buying front suspension for my 69 restomod project. The car was in such bad shape I had to cut apart the old suspension to get it out so I am starting from nothing. I plan to drive the car a lot mostly street use. I have looked at using stock parts with Shelby drop, roller perches and adjustable strut rods. I would have to purchase everything. I have also looked at coil over packages from SOT, TCP and Ridetech. I plan to also use R&P steering (don't try to talk me out of it). Cost is a factor but you also get what you pay for.
 

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Opentrackers stock style front suspension products will make a fine street driver. Be sure to get the mono bearing lower control arms.


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So many coil over options...

I am looking for advice (or maybe reassurance) before I pull the trigger on buying front suspension for my 69 restomod project. The car was in such bad shape I had to cut apart the old suspension to get it out so I am starting from nothing. I plan to drive the car a lot mostly street use. I have looked at using stock parts with Shelby drop, roller perches and adjustable strut rods. I would have to purchase everything. I have also looked at coil over packages from SOT, TCP and Ridetech. I plan to also use R&P steering (don't try to talk me out of it). Cost is a factor but you also get what you pay for.
Suspension is fun! And mind boggling too. There are so many options in the Mustang front suspension department I'd like to see what guys advise you. I don't have coil overs (will eventually) but for now my front is almost rebuilt - got new Global West +3 (degree camber) upper control arms, shelby drop done and roller spring perches. KYB shocks, boss 302 springs, but now to deal with the stock strut rod issue and lower control arms.

Watch this vid and imagine what braking/steering is doing to your alignment with stock strut rods...


Then if you just over-tighten your strut rod bushing you stand to break the rod! Imagine what the car does at speed if this happens...



I'm thinking about going with 'best of breed' items, like TCP strut rods for their strong looking front spherical bearings, although the Mike Maier Racing lower control arm/strut rod combo (expensive) is interesting because it's super-light, relatively speaking.

I really like, on paper, the coil over kits from TCP and Global West because the shock and spring is really long and mounts to the lower control arm and goes thru the upper control arm. I like the looks of the GW tubular upper bump stop, that keeps you from bottoming on your shock and damaging it.

Then there's shocks: dual adjustable seems to be the way to go, and, once again, you get what you pay for. Might make a big diff if you don't settle for 'off the shelf' shocks with single or no damping adjustments. Looks to me like the TCP and GW kits may work better if you use a super-shock like a JRI monotube. JRI has a quality spring shock that can remotely raise your car for low curbs or speed bumps too.

Check out Cortex Racing too - Phillip has made one incredible handling pony right here, great vid from House of Muscle. Watch the WHOLE vid...


Lots of rack and pinion options too, some that don't require changing to rear sump oil pan and some that do.
 

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Just checked out the Opentracker site. Good prices but have people had good luck with their products? I am willing to pay a little more for quality but not blow the budget. Looking for bang for the buck.
 

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Premium quality stock-type parts are the "bang for the buck". Install a high-quality export brace, and 1" front sway bar, and of course the Arning drop.
 

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Just checked out the Opentracker site. Good prices but have people had good luck with their products? I am willing to pay a little more for quality but not blow the budget. Looking for bang for the buck.
I haven't used them because I built my suspension before I came to VMF ,But these vendors all come highly recommended.And if I need something in the future I wouldn't hesitate using them
Vintage Mustang Suspension and Steering Friction Free Roller Bearing Performance - Opentracker Racing Products
Street or Track LLC
Classic Mustang Disc Brake Conversions and Power Steering
 

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Suspension is fun! And mind boggling too. There are so many options in the Mustang front suspension department I'd like to see what guys advise you. I don't have coil overs (will eventually) but for now my front is almost rebuilt - got new Global West +3 (degree CASTER) upper control arms, shelby drop done and roller spring perches. KYB shocks, boss 302 springs, but now to deal with the stock strut rod issue and lower control arms.

Watch this vid and imagine what braking/steering is doing to your alignment with stock strut rods...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPhRhZYLTpI&feature=youtu.be&t=1m19s

Then if you just over-tighten your strut rod bushing you stand to break the rod! Imagine what the car does at speed if this happens...




I'm thinking about going with 'best of breed' items, like TCP strut rods for their strong looking front spherical bearings, although the Mike Maier Racing lower control arm/strut rod combo (expensive) is interesting because it's super-light, relatively speaking.

I really like, on paper, the coil over kits from TCP and Global West because the shock and spring is really long and mounts to the lower control arm and goes thru the upper control arm. I like the looks of the GW tubular upper bump stop, that keeps you from bottoming on your shock and damaging it.

Then there's shocks: dual adjustable seems to be the way to go, and, once again, you get what you pay for. Might make a big diff if you don't settle for 'off the shelf' shocks with single or no damping adjustments. Looks to me like the TCP and GW kits may work better if you use a super-shock like a JRI monotube. JRI has a quality spring shock that can remotely raise your car for low curbs or speed bumps too.

Check out Cortex Racing too - Phillip has made one incredible handling pony right here, great vid from House of Muscle. Watch the WHOLE vid...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdlWiWfgfD0&t=521s

Lots of rack and pinion options too, some that don't require changing to rear sump oil pan and some that do.
I ran poly strut rod bushings for several years on rough New York roads on rusty old strut rods with no issue.Not saying they can't/won't break but I think this gets a little blown out of proportion. I've since built adjustable rod end style strut rods.
Many Rack set ups have turning radius issues
 

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I've used poly on our 65-66 cars as well without any issues. I've never seen a poly-broken strut on the 65-66 cars, only the 67-73. The 65-66 strut is more robust at the the bushing end. In the past we would put a poly bushing in the front position with a rubber bushing in the rear. The poly stops the strut from moving backward under braking and the rubber rear piece lets the strut move up and down without as much binding. This was before the Delrin set became available. Now we use either rubber, Delrin or the adjustable (roller) strut rods.
 

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I've used poly on our 65-66 cars as well without any issues. I've never seen a poly-broken strut on the 65-66 cars, only the 67-73. The 65-66 strut is more robust at the the bushing end. In the past we would put a poly bushing in the front position with a rubber bushing in the rear. The poly stops the strut from moving backward under braking and the rubber rear piece lets the strut move up and down without as much binding. This was before the Delrin set became available. Now we use either rubber, Delrin or the adjustable (roller) strut rods.
I'm using the poly bushings now with the rod ends
 

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Another vote of confidence in the "VMF Recipe" of Opentracker and Street or Track. This is my current set up, with a few pending changes

1. Arning Drop
2. Opentracker blueprinted upper arms
3. Opentracker roller bearing spring perches
4. 620 springs (and feel free to go heavier, I definitely agree with prevailing opinion that reducing suspension bind effectively reduces spring rate)
5. 1.125" sway bar with poly bushings
6. Opentracker roller bearing lower arms (Xmas list...currently running Moog)
7. Z Ray's nifty Boss-inspired cross member (Xmas list)
8. camber lock-out kit (Xmas list)
9. Street or Track solid strut rods
10. Koni shocks all around
11. Porterfield R4S pads and shoes
12. Eaton rear springs
13. Global West Del-a-Lum bushings/shackles

Whole cost of the above is super reasonable, IMO, and you'll find many folks here running virtually the same set up - never read a single gripe and I certainly don't have any (other than not buying the roller lower arms to begin with).
 
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