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I just ran across this thread and wanted to congratulate you as well. It's going to be a lot of work, but I'm confident you're going to be really proud of it when it is done. Are you keeping it pretty original, or doing some level of restomod?
 

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Believe it or not, people looking for 69 mach's to drive and enjoy are looking for the small block mach's. They're affordable, great in traffic and exceptional on gas mileage (my 351W 2V gets 18 MPG).

And when it comes to resale value, they will hold their value. Good Luck and welcome to the 69 mach world!!


BTW, the 69 mach in my signature is my wifes and it's been in her Family since 1970. Take a look at "My Garage"
 

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You are starting off with a better car than I did with my 66. I had to chop off the frame rails due to being too bent out of shape. Welded in convertible rails replaced a small spot of the pass rear pan cowl side panel etc etc. All on my build thread.
I finally got the car in the garage christmas eve and then out in the shop a month or so later and got started. I wanted to have the car front structure replaced and able to put suspension on by the sept swapmeet. I think I'm going to just miss that...
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/build-forum/1149848-66-basket-case.html
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I think I know the one your're talking about. :wink:

The one you missed has it's own issues as well (why are they never done the way you/we would do it?). Maybe I'll start a build thread on it at some point.

I'll certainly be following this thread also. The car looks great and congratulations!!

Allen
:wink:I couldn't have wished it to go to a better place! I've seen your work. Getting set up for now, but this will be done the way I want!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I just ran across this thread and wanted to congratulate you as well. It's going to be a lot of work, but I'm confident you're going to be really proud of it when it is done. Are you keeping it pretty original, or doing some level of restomod?
Tanks alot. Still looking at options. Since it's blown apart already, metalwork and paint will be first. I like the original Lime Gold more and more. The car will definitely have tech, but will probably look stock-ish.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
You are starting off with a better car than I did with my 66. I had to chop off the frame rails due to being too bent out of shape. Welded in convertible rails replaced a small spot of the pass rear pan cowl side panel etc etc. All on my build thread.
I finally got the car in the garage christmas eve and then out in the shop a month or so later and got started. I wanted to have the car front structure replaced and able to put suspension on by the sept swapmeet. I think I'm going to just miss that...
https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/build-forum/1149848-66-basket-case.html
Subscribed to your build thread as soon as I joined... My rolling resto 66 had a bent frame rail "surprise!" when I bought it. This car is way more solid than both our 66s. I really am excited about it. Thanks!
 

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Tanks alot. Still looking at options. Since it's blown apart already, metalwork and paint will be first. I like the original Lime Gold more and more. The car will definitely have tech, but will probably look stock-ish.
That sounds like a great plan, and props on keeping the Lime Gold. It's often an under-appreciated color, but looks great in BC/CC. Check out my garage for the other 2) greens offered in '69, and it would be pretty cool to get them together. Also, don't hesitate to ask questions if you have any. There are a lot of people with a ton of experience on these cars, and we've all learned a lot putting them back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Super Community here!

So I just want to thank you guys for encouragement. I have to recognize a great help already in @gregb. Made a mention in a PM about an unreproduced part I needed, and this guy generously and quickly stepped up to help. Very glad I joined here! Thanks, Greg, for the part!

-Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Original drivetrain

Part of the deal with the car was a later (4 bolt balancer pulley)351 Windsor/FMX in the car, and another given that was the original. Finally unloaded the truck and cracked the extra engine and trans apart. Turns out the last 4 of the VIN are on both(hard to see in pics 6215). Raises the question- should I build the later model, modern upgraded engine, or maybe rebuild and install the "born-with" stuff? Being that this is a 351 2v no A/C car, I really don't think I'm going to gain much value by going to the trouble and expense of going back "all original". I do not plan to ever sell this car, so I really think it's a non issue. Nice to know I have alot of original stuff though!
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Nice car. What did you do with the wheels and tires that were on it? Looked like Torque Thrust?
They are american racing 15's. I will be selling them. I have the original 14 inch rusty, chrome dog dishes I will put away with the drivetrain. And thanks!. Would love to see pics and details of your SR. Very interested in the 408 and drivetrain!
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Temporary motorvation

I know I said it would be a boat anchor, but I have to be mobile since I have so little room. I removed the unknown 351, and put it on the stand for evaluation. Installing the running 302 from Rusty to putt it around the property is the short term plan. And yes, it was a pain in the dirt!
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Quarter glass

Kind of random and out of place, but.....
Since my super reliable duraspark has let me down with no sparkle to get this heap in the garage for metalwork...

The car was missing glass, so I bought a complete smoke tint set. Only having one original green quarter window, I had to buy the passenger side in clear(the only way it comes with frame tilt hardware?) Oh boy! What an ordeal. Thinking the glass was glued in, I took it to the glass place we use at work. The lady called me an hour later: "we can't do it". Loooong story less long, the glass guy says "I can glue it in and blah blah" which means nothing since he quit the next day! So after 3 days at least I figured out the rubber seals that take 3 weeks to get from CJ's is all that hold the glass in, and with a can of silicone spray, I had them swapped out in less than an hour and 0$.
BTW...the aftermarket frames have the glass siliconed in, and have to be cut out with a razor!
What a pain, but now in 3 years when the car's ready they'll be ready to install.:laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #35
New arrival!

Denny's driveshaft arrived. Very nice quality and it seems my measurements were good since it fits. Got fuel to carb, difficult to find FMX dipstick on t's way, and brake master working in a rudimentary manner. As soon as I fix the duraspark, I'll get this thing in the garage!
 

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I went with a driveshaft from Denny's as well. Agreed, quality of construction is very good. He made up a special configuration to mate up with my 6R80 AT. I felt the price was fair and far cheaper making the DS in aluminum vs carbon fiber.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I went with a driveshaft from Denny's as well. Agreed, quality of construction is very good. He made up a special configuration to mate up with my 6R80 AT. I felt the price was fair and far cheaper making the DS in aluminum vs carbon fiber.
Price wise a virtual lateral move price wise to a CJ, ujoints, and yoke separate. Plus, CJ et all you don't know where you get your parts from; this one custom built by an American. They advertise 2500 RPM balance versus Denny's @ 10000. I thought it was a good deal "long term".

BTW... way to sneak on my thread while I wasn't looking, @Boss5Oh ! I thought nobody was listening!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Engine options

Started breaking down the 351 that came in the car. It had a 1978 emission sticker on the valve cover and is stamped late 77 production. It has a lip, but no really alarming looking issues. Am considering the options with this engine and heads(since they have hardened seats) or the original engine and adding aluminum heads. The FMX that's in the car won't go into gear , and the shift lever is dissimilar to the original, so it appears the original FMX will get a rebuild.
 

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Engine options

... The FMX that's in the car won't go into gear , and the shift lever is dissimilar to the original, so it appears the original FMX will get a rebuild.
I purchased and watched the Bad Shoe video several times and then tacked my FMX myself. It actually worked when I was done but my makeshift fix for the replacement front band did not. I sent the original band out for re-lining, pulled the trans, replaced the front band, put it all back together and now the trans is working great!
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