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Discussion Starter #1

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phew those are rough, check my sig pic, my 68 was in somwhat better condition if thats possible, and i paid $800, but it was a complete car
 

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Run away in my opinion .
 

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RIP.... Might be a few parts salvagable there, but youd have to have more brains than $ to try to restore those,especially the small block. Just too much rust for the eventual value. I paid 500 for my rolling shell, and it was more complete and in better shape than either of those 2, and Im still shocked at how much work and ching Ill have in it before Im done.... Just my 2 cents...
 

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If they were long term keepers, and you do all the work yourself, then maybe they'd be worth it. I would find it hard to pass up a big block fastback in any shape. But like was mentioned before, it will take a lot of time and money to make either one decent. Probably the best route would be get the two and use the small block car for parts for the big block car. (And if somebody comes and says I am suggesting a rebody, I will personally come kick them in the kneecaps. :))

Regardless, if you decide to pass on 'em, and are in roughly the same vicinity, I may be interested in both of them (with a finders fee to you). What state are you in? I'm in Virginia.

Have fun,
 

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Which one is the S code? The blue one is one completely stripped car. After seeing the pics, I'd have to revise my estimate of cost to repair that thing. I started with an almost perfect, rust free body, and aleady have $20k into my '69 sportsroof, and have a way to go yet.

Unless you've got the time, money, patience and place to do it, I think I'd be passing on this deal. The price is at the upper end of what they're worth.
 

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He should pay you..for cleaning off his property.. :horror:
 

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FWIW, I watched two more complete 69 fastback small block cars sell for a little over 1500 on eBay a couple weeks ago. One of them looked like the front end had broken off the rest of the car. They were very rough. So....maybe the price is about right, but I don't see any potential in flipping them to make a quick buck. I would base the purchase on how much money could be recovered in parts if you end up bailing on restoring them. I only buy cars I know I won't lose money on if I never invest more and just part them out.
 

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Looks like a good deal to me. Thats about what my '69 SCJ looked like when I drug it home from Wyoming 18 years ago. It took a lot of work and a fair amount of money, but if you've got a solid car to start with it makes all the difference in the world. The bolt on stuff is relatively cheap in comparison to the stuff thats welded on when it comes to repair work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The s code is the one with the whole front cap missing and
Im in Alabama. The man that owns them said that if I didnt want them he would just keep them that he wasnt going to offer them to anyone else. I just really hate to pass on a big block car of any kind There are only a limited number of them around anyway and I can only see the price of a good body going higher I mean what could we have all bought a shelby for 20 years ago.
Thanks for all the replies Jeff
 

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Jeff,
You and I think alike. Hard to pass a big block car. These things are going to be like Model A's, people will only keep fixing uglier and uglier messes up over time. And big block cars will get more scarce.....
 

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Man thats a tough one,,if you are VERY experienced at welding,and have lots of $$$$$$$,,the big block one is the one to go for.If the other car is fairly solid and not killed beyond hope,,then maybe a sandblasting to clean it up would be in order and some minor bodywork to get the "uglies" off of it and put the shell on ebay.69 fastbacks are bringing blood as we all know,,so there will be plenty of interest in it,,and maybe you can be into the 390 car shell for zero dollars after that.Do these cars have good titles?? MAJOR issue there.I know Ky has gotten rediculous on issuing DOT vin tags for rebuilt classics now.I gave 1500.00 for my 69 S-code Mach in 1996,,the only reason i gave that much for it was it had an unmolested perfect fold-down in it,,and a mint tilt-flyaway column.Other than that the car was pure crap,,wrong engine,every color in the paint books,rust EVERYWHERE.Was a Indinapolis area car,,hence the rust.But i built the silly thing,,and it took about 7 parts cars to get where it's at now,,and it is very solid and tight.Even has power windows now.Would i ever do it again???HELL NO! I get cars from out west now,,pay a little more for a much more solid car shell.When you hit 40 years old,,things change a lot.I estimate with you doing the work,,you would have probably at least 25 grand in that thing,,depending on what and how you option the car out.If it was a low option car,,and you put it back that way,,BIG mistake.In my experience,,most 390 cars i have seen have been well optioned.Mine is.Need to get a Marti report on both,,and run the math on restored value versus rarity,,options,cost of resurecting the dead horse,,etc. the engine is probably the easiest piece to come up with.Solid metal in Ford original stuff will sting very bad. I have a 69 Luxury GT Fastback also,,one of one car,,that is unbelievably solid,,and i gave 3500.00 for it 3 years ago. It's Aucoulpolco Blue with White luxury inside(5W). Thank God it was solid,,i doubt i would ever build another rustbucket again,,too damn expensive. Jeff K.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey 69smach you said. you would have probably at least 25 grand in that thing,,depending on what and how you option the car out.If it was a low option car,,and you put it back that way,,BIG mistake.In my experience,,most 390 cars i have seen have been well optioned.
Where could I go and buy a car as nice as yours for 25 grand?

My problem is that I have a few cars that im working on buying right now and a limited amount of money to work with
and one more week to make up my mind on those 69s
 
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