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Discussion Starter #1
I am at my witts end with a 1969 Mach1 and it's wondering steering. :pissed: It does have tilt away colm and power steering.

What it is doing: Turns easy lock to lock, one finger easy.

When you drive down the road seems fine as long as you are going straight. As soon as you have a bend in the road it seem to take a bit more than usual to turn off center and then you have to chase it back in other direction. No matter if starting to the right or left.

Here is what we have done so far... I have no vehicle history as it was a inoperable drop off.

We started off with a simple steering restoration. Rebuilding the power steering pump,(press checks ok) control valve(even tried a new one) and the asst cylinder.(new rod and packing) new hoses(all clear)Flush the cooler and tried it by passed. Steer box rebuilt and adjust six ways from Sunday( by the book and by the gut)
New rag joint,
Checked for tight ball joints, loose rod ends, structural tweeks, loos welds at the lower control arms and strut rods.
All suspension and steering is new or almost new. Idler arm good pitman arm, measured out the control valve position, unhooked the colm from box and it turns free no binding.

We have also checked several other thoughts... so I need new eyes!! Thoughts?? Suggestions?? So we may have already tried and not mentioned but will be greatful any ideas about experiences with Tilt Steering Colm... are they prone to this???
Thanks in advance... kc
 

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Easy....

You have negative caster.

You need 1 1/2 to 2 degrees positive caster to make the car return to center.

Positive caster means the upper ball joint is "behind" the lower ball joint.

Imagine a line drawn through both upper and lower ball joints. It should tilt rearwards, like the forks on a motorcycle.

You can add shims between the UCA and frame. Adding shims behind the front bolts moves the upper balljoint rearward.

Your front strut rods could be the problem too. To create positive caster you need to pull the LCA forward which means shortening the front strut rod.

Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply... when we had the alignment done we set the camber at 1 1/2 degrees... that's a given with Mustangs and making them turn.

I think the steerbox is binding after todays runs. I will try that after the first of the year when I have had a brake from the stress :wall:I think the "By gut" adjustment may be a bit too tight... I hope!!
Happy New Year!
 

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Can't help with the diagnosis, but drop me a PM if you determine that you need some PS parts. I bought a new control valve and slave cylinder from Semo Mustang, put them on the car and there they have sat. They have a little overspray from the painter, but they haven't even had fluid in them. Also my original PS box is available.
I just listed them with our host in the 69/70 parts section.
(Pulley misalignment and header clearance issues have just tipped me into a TCP rack purchase.)
 

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Since the idler arm is the principal return mechanism, my instinct says to check that. Is there something binding at that point? Although it is a new idler arm, perhaps someone sold you the incorrect year or there is something in the geometry of the connection that is causing binding. I'd put the front up on jack stands and try manipulating the drag link/idler arm and check for stiffness, rubbing, and listen for unusual noises. Whatever it is, the problem sounds a little scary. Good luck.
 

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roadracer is correct that the caster has alot to do with that. It would also be a good time to check idler arm, ball joints, tie rods,controll arm bushings, and have the steering box adjusted.
I have a way of adjusting the steering box a easy old fashion way but don't feel good (safety) about suggesting it freely.
 
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