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I'm increasing the Horse Power on my stock 69 mustang 2V 351w engine to 400hp by installing Edelbrock's Top end kit.
With this I will be installing a Hays #91-2002 Clutch rated upto 450 hp to handle the extra power
This clutch is a 3 finger lever original style clutch (this is not a diaphragm design as I have never used one and I wanted to keep the original feel)
My question is, Do you this this will cause excess leg strain or be to stiff for the mechanical linkage causing binding or bending of the stock components?
Or am I over thinking this?
 

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You are over thinking this. However, pedal effort can be reduced by installing a roller bearing kit on the clutch pedal. The Drake kit is least expensive and easiest to install. First time I used it was on a 69 428CJ. With the kit installed, and 11-year-old girl was able to push the clutch.
 

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I suspect that your new clutch won't put any more stress on the linkage than that from an original 3-finger clutch behind a 428SCJ. As 22GT said, put in a roller kit (clutch pedal and linkage) and you'll not have any issues.
 

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You are over thinking this. However, pedal effort can be reduced by installing a roller bearing kit on the clutch pedal. The Drake kit is least expensive and easiest to install. First time I used it was on a 69 428CJ. With the kit installed, and 11-year-old girl was able to push the clutch.

I did the same as 22GT. I used a Mustang Steve kit on my pedal hanger and made up my own linkage with rod ends. I used steel rod from a hardware store and bought the rod ends from Granger. You can get rod ends anyplace. It was cheap and easy. In the 10 years on my car, it's been 100% problem free. Works super smooth.

I would have used a stock clutch. Your tires will probably spin long before you make 400 hp
 

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I don't think you are over thinking this at all. I personally have had this happen to me. 1970 Mach 1 428 Cobra Jet 4 speed stuffed full of 427 Hi riser parts. On hard acceleration the engine torques over and does bind the clutch linkage and the linkage did bend when you shifted, right at the part that goes over the steering shaft. My solution was to reinforce that part of the linkage by triangulating it with angle iron cut and bent to follow the original contour. However the the best solution that kept this from happening was to tie the engine down to the shock tower (Tower had factory reinforcement plates) with a steel cable to limit the amount that the engine could move. Just doing this should be all you might need if your linkage does bind. I was drag racing at the time with this car so it was pretty extreme. Don't use a solid connection to do this, use a cable. This also helped with motor mount that kept breaking on that side. I too had the Hays HD clutch. Roller bearing would help with clutch effort too.

sandybob
 

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Doubt it will have excessive pedal. Long clutches are nice as they usually have centrifugal clamping assist with the weights on the levers. Rev one with the pedal depressed, you'll feel it kick in.

IMO, any time you do this type of work, thoroughly inspect and repair your clutch linkage as needed. Too many will just throw it back together and then wonder why things fail shortly afterwards. I would plan on replacing all the bushings and clips at a minimum.
 

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Many many years back I built a 460 SCJ engine and slapped a big block four speed in my old 70 fastback. I do not recall any specifics about the build other than I ended up having to take an old Z bar and welded it to the existing Z bar to keep it from bending.
 
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