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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I figured I should try and do a build thread. if not for you guys then at least for my record. Remember I'm learning as i go, any advice is welcomed. if i don't like i just won't take it:)

My goals for the build are simple. Create something unique from other restomod mustangs. Hence why im calling my build a restorod. I'm going to incorporate some rat rod styling. don't worry it will be classy but not too classy. Performance is also a big box id like to check. I have a 1991 5.0 HO engine that id like to make 300hp with. Im on a tight budget but im doing everything i can the right way. I dont want to have to redo anything. hence why ive taken the car all the way apart.

Right now the car is fully disassembled and waiting for me to cut out all the rusted areas and patch in new stuff. On major thing to remember here is that im not going to be painting the car but rather clearing it with a clear specifically designed for adhering to metal. I need to make sure that my sheet metal work is the best it can be before moving on. everything will be seen in terms of bodywork. Im ok if it isn't absolutely perfect, that's simply not my goal. but i don't want it to look like a 5-year-old did it either.

Im going to be making alot of carbon fiber and aluminum parts and pieces for this car. again you can kinda see how this will be different from other resto-mod or hot rod builds. im trying to mix the two and have it look good. carbon fiber parts on the cleared steel body should look really cool and add much-needed contrast. My bumpers will be matte black to aid in this as well. I am well aware the clearing over bare metal can have negative effects if not properly prepped. that's a risk I'm willing to take.

I could go on another few hundred words on my ideas for the car but i think ill leave it here for now and attach a few pics. thanks for reading this far. id appreciate feedback/advice.

Jake
 

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Discussion Starter #5
RUST. Yeah I said it. There’s a lot of the damn stuff on my poor stang. It’s the primary thing that I’m working on currently. Cutting it out and searching for it. I’d rather not know where all the rust is but if I want it to last as long as possible then I need to find as much rust as I can. The lower and mid cowl panels (which I already removed) were basically non existent.

I’m going to attach some pics of a few spots that are rotted. I’m wondering if it’s normal mustang rust. If you have seen any of the places rust out let me know.

On a more positive note the frame rails are perfect. No rust there. And most of the car, ok some of the car, is completely rust free.

The way that I’m thinking that I’ll tackle the first portion of the restoration is this:
-cut out rusted areas (this includes finding them)
-media blast interior, engine bay, and under (carriage?)
-patch everywhere that I cut out
-prime everywhere I media blasted

That’s about as far as I’ve gotten. The reason I will not simply blast the entire car at once is because i want to leave that for right before I’m ready to clear it. If I start early enough and go late enough I could blast and clear the exterior in a day (or a weekend) which gives me the best chance of having a perfectly clean surface for the clear to lay over. That means that the chances of rust starting underneath the clear is greatly diminished.

Feel free to chime in if you see any discrepancies. I haven’t done this before so I’m just going by what little knowledge I have.

Thank you for following
Jake
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I began removing the roof yesterday. It’s slow work drilling out each spot weld but it’s going faster than I ever expected.

Of course as i finally thought things were gonna go my way I lost the spring that applies pressure to the center drill of my spot weld cutter. Whoops. Progress is stalled until the new one comes in. I might try to find a stiff enough spring so I can keep using my old one in the mean time.

As a remove the spot welds I feel more affirmed in my decision to remove the roof. Rust is once again pouring out from a seam. What is the proper way to weld a seam back together so as not to promote rust due to the metal on mental contact? I was thinking weld thru primer but I’d like to hear what others do.
 

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Cool build, I'll be following as well.

I've been using a self etching primer between flanges. I welded a couple of primed pieces together then split it to see what the heat did to the primer. As can be seen in the image, it adhered to the metal well without peeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cool build, I'll be following as well.

I've been using a self etching primer between flanges. I welded a couple of primed pieces together then split it to see what the heat did to the primer. As can be seen in the image, it adhered to the metal well without peeling.
That’s great to know. I have a bunch of weld through and self etching primer. It’s basically a zinc based self etching primer. Good to know regular self etching primer works too though.
 
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