[Viperpete]

Man.... I have so much to learn....
Amazing amazing work. I really like your attention to detail.

I have a few questions.
How does the rotisserie attach to the car?
How does the table attach to the car?
How do you figure the door and hood gaps? Mine as all over the place and id want them "tighter" when I get to that point.
On a lot of mustangs I have seen, the hood is not perfectly flush with the fenders in some areas and seems to "bulge". Is that the hinges or something else??
If looks like the project was done in a 2 car garage, is that right? I want to convert my workshop to a painting area like it seems you did.

Subscribed!

 

[cla5675]

Man.... I have so much to learn....
Amazing amazing work. I really like your attention to detail.

I have a few questions.
How does the rotisserie attach to the car?
How does the table attach to the car?
How do you figure the door and hood gaps? Mine as all over the place and id want them "tighter" when I get to that point.
On a lot of mustangs I have seen, the hood is not perfectly flush with the fenders in some areas and seems to "bulge". Is that the hinges or something else??
If looks like the project was done in a 2 car garage, is that right? I want to convert my workshop to a painting area like it seems you did.

Subscribed!

Thanks for the kind words. I will try to answer your questions the best I can.

-The rotisserie attaches to the front bumper mounts and the rear shackle mounts.

-The body cart attaches to the front lower arm mount and the rear leaf spring bolt.

-Door/hood/fender gaps are all 3/16th inch. I use a 3/16th piece of aluminum as a "go/no go" gauge. The more time and patience you have in the metal working stage the better your gaps will be. However, you can drive yourself crazy trying to get the gaps to a uniform 3/16th inch in metal. Using the proper body filler to complete the gaps is key as long as your not using filler for structural purposes.

-We had the same issues with hood/fender alignment as well. We tackled it two ways. You can see in posts #4 and #5 on page 1 how we "raised" the edge of the fenders to line up better with the hood. Also, after having the hood hinges rebuilt by a pro, we found the hood springs were causing most of the problem with the hood to fender alignment. We originally thought the poor alignment was due to the wear in the hinge rivets, which I'm sure there was some play but removing the hood springs was key for us to get everything to line up. We will leave the hoods springs off for now. May have to go to a hood prop rod or try some different springs once we get to that point in the re-assembly process.

-Check out the pictures in post #39 on page 3 and you will get a sense of the size of the building we're working in...it's massive. However, we sectioned off what we call "the lift bay" so we can keep the body work dust and debris out of the rest of the shop. We will be painting the car in a booth or building our own booth in another one of the bays.

Hope that answers your questions. Feel free to ask if you have more.


Troy.

 

[SWPruett]

Troy,

The car is looking absolutely fantastic! You work looks a cut above and shows in your attention to detail. Can't wait to see it in color and really enjoying your progress! Hats off!

 

[cla5675]

Troy,

The car is looking absolutely fantastic! You work looks a cut above and shows in your attention to detail. Can't wait to see it in color and really enjoying your progress! Hats off!

Thanks, Sven. Your blog has been a real inspiration for this build. I also cannot wait to see yours in paint!! Maybe someday we can get the cars side by side at Goodguys in Columbus!!


Troy.

 

[SWPruett]

Troy,

I am really glad that something on my blog was helpful in your project! That makes every bit of effort worth it. Gotta keep this craft alive!

I really like the idea of getting the cars together in Columbus! When I finally get mine done, it's a deal!

Best,

 

[jlambethcissp]

Looks Awesome so far.

 

[cla5675]

Finally got to put down some 2K. Only got one wet coat down before some gun issues. I'm gonna go ahead and block it out in 400 anyway. Would rather have had two coats down but I had to throw out a punch of sprayable material that hardened up while I fixed the gun problems. Such is life. Anyway, here are some pics. I LOVE the texture of 2K. If it was a durable finish I would probably leave my '66 Coupe in 2K forever!!

 

[Viperpete]

It's always surprising to me how much different a car looks when its all one uniform color.
Nice work.

 

[Boss5Oh]

Perfection, looks like a million bucks. That is the straightest body work I have ever seen, definitely shows pride went into the workmanship. I can only hope that I will be able to get mine to look as good as yours when the time comes.

Alan

 

[cla5675]

Thanks, fellas.

Boss5Oh, you can do it too. Just gotta be patient.

 

[SWPruett]

Absolutely excellent! Your car is looking spectacular and really appeals to the eye! Mine anyway! 8^)

 

[hsvtoolfool]

Well done. That is so straight it looks like a plastic model.

 

[Black68coupe]

Absolutely killer. Great work on the gaps.

 

[cla5675]

Thanks for the kind words, fellas!!

 

[ldouble619]

When can I drop my car off for body work??

 

[cla5675]

When can I drop my car off for body work??

Drop it off anytime....not sure when you'd get it back though!!!:laugh:

 

[cla5675]

Got to roll the car out in the sun today to help that 2K cure. Always looks better in the sunlight...at least to me it does.

 

[SWPruett]

Looks truly outstanding! Not long for color by the look of it!

 

[cla5675]

Well, we were able to get the 2K blocked out in 400 dry. Now time to seal it all in reduced epoxy, wet sand with 600 and lay down some color and clear!!!

 

[SWPruett]

Absolutely outstanding! Cant wait to see it in color! VERY well done!