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Discussion Starter #1
Quick recap-I bought the car a week ago. PO had an electric pump on with fuel regular behind mechanical pump. I replaced old mechanical pump with new mechanical without electric and it wouldn’t pump!
We reattached electric. I called seller and he said it has to have electric because eccentric isn’t working for unknown reasons and he’s driven it that way for the last year.
He rebuilt the 2100 carb but said temperamental so he planned to replace with Holley 2300 500 cfm Ford kickdown and electric choke.
The engine seems to run good cruising around at a steady speed. The problem arises when I’m letting off the gas to slow down at an intersection to an idle. I drove it on the freeway today for about 10 miles and opened it up a bit a couple of times. Getting off the freeway and driving 35-45 it was fine until I slowed to stop and it wanted to stall. It stalled 4 times in a 3 mile ride from the freeway.
Hopefully this makes sense because because I’m not sure what to do aside from spending $430 on this Holley 2300 now.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Po was driving the car for the past 9 mos knowing the eccentric was not functional. I don’t hear any weird noises and I’ve changed the oil. Should I drop the oil pan to see if anything dropped in there or is it even safe to drive?
 

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You can remove the mechanical fuel pump and look inside the timing cover with a mirror and flashlight or a borescope and see what's going on with the eccentric.
 

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You can remove the mechanical fuel pump and look inside the timing cover with a mirror and flashlight or a borescope and see what's going on with the eccentric.
Very good idea.

FYI, you can try rebuilding the 2V carb you have and see how that works. The kit is very inexpensive and those carbs are so simple you could almost rebuild one while blindfolded.

I wouldn't recommend running the Holley 2V. Some people like them, but I've heard many horror stories as well. The factory 2100 is a very good carburetor. If you want a different carb, go 4 barrel or don't bother.

Let us know what's going on with the fuel pump eccentric.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looking at a Manual picture of the camshaft it looks like one bolt and washer hold it in place. Can that extend outward far enough to come out even with cover on?
Any chance metal could break off and get into the engine or would it have already dropped down in the pan?
If I don’t need to sweat the eccentric damaging anything I’m fine running the electric for now. The motor has 85,000 on it and runs fine aside from that fuel issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Klutch the previous owner just rebuilt it a few months ago and said he was still not able to get it on point so planned to buy the Holley. I’m wondering if maybe there’s something like a float sticking or vacuum issues with it.
The carb I was considering was Holley avenger 2300 model 500 cfm with electric choke. I figured I could run that and shop off original to someone good at doing that carb as I’ve never rebuilt any carb.
 

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Getting off the freeway and driving 35-45 it was fine until I slowed to stop and it wanted to stall. It stalled 4 times in a 3 mile ride from the freeway.
Does your car have an automatic transmission? If so, is there a dashpot attached to the base of the carb near the throttle lever? On AT equipped cars Ford used a dashpot to slow the rate of throttle closure to prevent the very same problem you're having.
 

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For the price of gaskets (parts, if needed) and the little time involved, I'd go ahead and pull the timing cover and repair/replace the pump eccentric. At least you won't have to go to the expense/issues of replacing the carb.
 

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If you're moderately mechanically inclined you can rebuild a 2V. Just follow the instructions in the kit. You'll have many more challenging issues with a 50 year old car. I do urge caution though- once after rebuilding mine I had a double failure. The float stuck and the starter solenoid welded itself shut at the same time. Gas was pouring all over and it wouldn't stop cranking even after banging on the solenoid, until I got the battery cable off. Be prepared, and leave a cable loose enough to remove by hand.
 

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A friend with a '67 289 C code has a rebuilt 2100 that has not run well in a long, long time. I suggested the Holley Street Avenger 350 as an option. Next thing I know we are installing it. The install was straight forward with a minimum of fabrication needed to connect the existing linkage to the carb. After a couple of minutes of fine tuning the idle we took it for a test drive up the hill (probably 6000 foot elevation) then back down and around town (probably about 2000 foot elevation). Night and Day improvement. The car starts right up, idles smoothly, no flat spots upon tip in, and it really moves when you nail the accelerator pedal. Best of all, no stalling when you let up on the accelerator pedal. Happy drivers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That’s good to hear! I ordered the street avenger 500 cfm and the Ford trans hardware kit a bit ago.
I’m also going to put aside a day to get into that timing cover so I don’t go nuts obsessing over losing the motor over a mystery.
Thanks everyone for the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It’s gotten worse today. I can start it and it’ll idle all day until I put it in drive, accelerate then take my foot off the medal...nose dives to eventually stall.
I won’t have the new carb until Saturday.
 
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