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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the middle of replacing a lot of the front suspension parts on my car. The repro strut rod bushing kit that I got looks quite a bit different than the original. (The box says that it's the right one, and I got it from a well-known Mustang parts vendor).

Does this look like the correct assembly for the parts, or do I have something in the wrong place? Does it make any difference which bushing goes in front and which goes on the rear of the crossmember?
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/546000-546999/546480_26_full.jpg
 

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That is the correct way they go together (just did mine with similar kit style late last year). I believe I put mine on as if the front of the car is to the right side of your photo. In from the front, that is. The inner sleeve should fill the gap of the rubber/midolyne bushing. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I thought that was right, but after reading some of the horror stories about what can happen when a strut rod breaks :shocked2: I just wanted an opinion from someone who's already done this. It would be nice if the kits cam with a simple sheet of paper showing the correct placement, but I guess that's asking too much.
 

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Some of the bushing kits that I have bought had "front" molded into the bushings. Most have had an instruction sheet, but I like to buy my suspension parts locally (Napa, Advance, etc). Saves me on shipping and I get to know who made the parts before i buy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I wish that I had checked with a local parts store first for the strut rod bushings. I got LCA's at Autozone, but when I decided to get new UCA's, I had to get them from a Mustang parts vendor. I just ordered the strut rod bushings, too, figuring that they would all be the same more or less. I did pick up some sway bar end links from Autozone this weekend.
 

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You'll like the difference all the way around with the replacements you are making. While you are there, you might as well look at replacing the sway bar bushings, too. You've done just about everything else. Are you replacing the coils and coil perches too?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've got a pair of Opentracker's roller spring perches, but I decided to just keep the old springs because they still seem to be in good shape. I did check on sway bar bushing when I picked up the end links but they were out of stock. I think I probably will replace them just to eliminate another sqeak.

While we're on the subject of sway bars, do you think I would see much improvement by switching to a bigger sway bar? My car was a 6 cyl. and it still has the smallest sway bar. I know where I can get a sway bar from an H code car if it would be worth the trouble.
 

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The rear washer should be cupped away from the mounting bracket and the front washer should be cupped towards the mounting bracket. Like this (front is to the right): )||)

This allows the strut rod to work up and down without binding. The Moog bushings that I have are designed like I described.
 

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You would be better served by a larger diameter sway bar. I can't tell you whether the 6 is different from the 8. If you can snag the H code sway bar, more power to you, but you may want to measure your circumference you have now so do don't drop extra $$ for something that turns out the same.
 

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How does that washer work with the inside bushing if you turn it around as you suggest? The cupped washer is smaller than the bushing and has nothing to go "around" I would think.
 

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While we're on the subject of sway bars, do you think I would see much improvement by switching to a bigger sway bar? My car was a 6 cyl. and it still has the smallest sway bar. I know where I can get a sway bar from an H code car if it would be worth the trouble.
6 cyl cars came with a 3/4" bar, same as the F-code 302 and H-code 351-2V. You'd be better served with a set of polyurethane frame bushings as a quick upgrade to your existing setup. Make sure you grease them well, as they tend to squeak if they aren't lubed properly. I buy the $10 Addco frame bushings and drill a hole for grease, straight up through the mounting bracket and install a Zerk fitting in the bracket. Makes for easy lubricating.

To upgrade your sway bars, look into the 7/8 front bar that came on 351-4V and up 71-3 Mustangs and Cougars. There also was a 1/2" rear bar on these same cars that came with competition suspension.
 
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